ORCA scratch build
- Thread starter flimzy
- Start date
DCN
Well-Known Member
That's what the See Through does. Remember when you were building orca V1 and I said don't forget the see Through? In reality it's a magnifying glass. This part really needs to be in the correct location to do it's job. Pretty cool eh?
I'm kinda surprised that it's so hard to get any pics of the forward cabin. I would have expected there to be at least one basic photo session covering the whole boat. Like just for continuity purposes and to have reference material for Orca#2.
The #2 build already needed a detailed copy of the main cabin with some breakaway window/wall structure. You'd think they would have snapped a few pics of the forward cabin while they were at it. If I was running that project then I would have said "At least spray paint the inside of the #2's forward hold to resemble the #1 if nothing else. Make the walls the right colors."
Maybe try calling up that young guy who directed the movie. Steven something. He might remember the forward cabin. He used to chill out inside the Orca#1 on the studio backlot.
The #2 build already needed a detailed copy of the main cabin with some breakaway window/wall structure. You'd think they would have snapped a few pics of the forward cabin while they were at it. If I was running that project then I would have said "At least spray paint the inside of the #2's forward hold to resemble the #1 if nothing else. Make the walls the right colors."
Maybe try calling up that young guy who directed the movie. Steven something. He might remember the forward cabin. He used to chill out inside the Orca#1 on the studio backlot.
Last edited:
DCN
Well-Known Member
I wish, I wish, I so wish! I heard a story that Lynn Murphy took pictures of the whole transformation of the Warlock to Orca. Inside and out. This would make sense as all the work was done at his boatyard. No idea how to contact Susan Murphy to find out if this is true. I've ask Marty Milner who actually worked and built both orca 1 and 2. He couldn't remember. Another possibility is asking Joe Alves, he would know.
Last edited:
flimzy
Master Member
well the weather is getting better, so its time to start thinking of the actual build.
I've taken the 3d model as far as I think I want to go at the moment, as am not good enough at texture painting yet.
so here is the video,it took 2 days to render because we had 2 power cuts and my PC was plugged into my UPS.
I've taken the 3d model as far as I think I want to go at the moment, as am not good enough at texture painting yet.
so here is the video,it took 2 days to render because we had 2 power cuts and my PC was plugged into my UPS.
Last edited:
flimzy
Master Member
We I was supposed to be working on Fantastic 4 but due to artistic differences I will be having the summer off ( I always wondered what that meant 
). so time to work on ORCA.
I 3D printed a mockup of the Harpoon gun. ordered the wood and aluminum. I'm thinking of making 10 but they might be expensive so might but feelers out first. when I start this I'll post it on the Prop forum.
I've also started breaking down the NECA scale version 2.
I can then use the money from that to do the 6th scale ORCA
). so time to work on ORCA. I 3D printed a mockup of the Harpoon gun. ordered the wood and aluminum. I'm thinking of making 10 but they might be expensive so might but feelers out first. when I start this I'll post it on the Prop forum.
I've also started breaking down the NECA scale version 2.
I can then use the money from that to do the 6th scale ORCA
flimzy
Master Member
I’ve seen the jig they use. It hangs down over the sander, I might make one of those ,
Flimzy, My gunsmith does not use a jig. He tapes the stock off at the end where the pad meets the stock. First layer is scotch tape then masking tap in two layers. This acts as a stop gap so you do not sand into the stock. He uses a side mounted disc sander and works toward the tape. When he gets close he hand sands to final fit. This can be intimidating, but with your skills, I think you could pull it off. Yea, Columbus took a chance.
flimzy
Master Member
If I'm doing 10 I'll need anything to help speed it up. this was the jig I found and its quite easy to make. Your right I'll still need to hand finish at the end.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ivl5HvA7CV4Flimzy, My gunsmith does not use a jig. He tapes the stock off at the end where the pad meets the stock. First layer is scotch tape then masking tap in two layers. This acts as a stop gap so you do not sand into the stock. He uses a side mounted disc sander and works toward the tape. When he gets close he hand sands to final fit. This can be intimidating, but with your skills, I think you could pull it off. Yea, Columbus took a chance.
I'll make 1 first as a proof of prosses as there are so many parts involved.
flimzy
Master Member
So I'm nearly finished breaking out the laser cut profiles when I came to the conclusion that even though I'm not building the lower deck I'm going to have to at least put something down there like my first build. So this meant looking over the footage,
even though there is barely anything to see.
trying to make sence of this with the model I have, I came to a strange assumption that would make it work, only if your think out of the box.
I think the in editing this shot of the toilet all 32 frame, just over a foot. ( 35mm anamophic open gate ) was flipped.
this puts the stand up back on the left side.
which would make this work. as I'm not to bothered if this is truly right I just need shapes and shadows in my model this is what I'm going with.
trying to make sence of this with the model I have, I came to a strange assumption that would make it work, only if your think out of the box.
I think the in editing this shot of the toilet all 32 frame, just over a foot. ( 35mm anamophic open gate ) was flipped.
this puts the stand up back on the left side.
which would make this work. as I'm not to bothered if this is truly right I just need shapes and shadows in my model this is what I'm going with.
DCN
Well-Known Member
You Have my mind working in overtime. You are on a Roll with the Lower Cabin. Get rid of the sink and look at the scene of Hooper grabbing his equipment after the engine blows up. That scene has a good view of the top of that cabinet, of what might be Orca 2 like you said.
The picture of the lantern fire you outlined the molding brace on the back wall. It's a half ark similar to the arch on the back deck bulkheads. With your outline, guess what? The Cabin roof is arched like the main cabin. There's another Monkey thrown into the Socket Wrench.
I'm liking the Bathroom on the Left side (port) of the boat. That's what Marty Milner told me too. If That's true, YOU ARE SO RIGHT that the film was probably flipped in editing. You brightened up (THANK YOU) the picture of Brody in the water. The port side bed goes right up to the main cabin bulkhead wall, which means, the life jackets are getting the bed soaked,......lmao.
The only thing that stumps me now is the back cabin wall. Are all 3 portholes in one room? It's Rabbit Season, No, it's Duck Season, "Get behind Me, We're Swinging Again".
flimzy
Master Member
My roof already has an arch so no problem there. I didn't see a sink I just put one in because both ORCA 1 and 2 have taps there, I think there are only 2 port hole it would make the door in the end wall too short and the floor would be too narrow. in my mock up you can see my beds are still a little too far apart. I'll have another go tomorrow.
DCN
Well-Known Member
A short door might be right though.
Similar threads
