New BMF coming

I have had some great results with pastels, and using testors dull cote spray to seal them in. It gives a lovely flat finish, it was the only spray that gave the results I was looking for.
 
Quick tutorial on using pastels. Pictures should be pretty self explanatory. Seal with a dull coat to protect the powder from rubbing off.
 

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For those of you thinking about getting any parts off of SHAPEWAYS..today they have a 20% off promo going on "CYBER20" that lasts until 12:00pm pst. Note their site is very laggy right now too...and..they doubled all my orders to 2x of everything...I was able to catch it before it went thru tho.. Anyhow...I saved 50 bucks in ordering falcon parts, but spent more than I would have otherwise. I know most of you are waiting on the resin kit..but if not..this is a good deal! :)
 
Wow thanks PHA, I have some humbrol matt clear coat in a little rattle can, do you think that is ok for the falcon? I'm not sure what the lighting will be yet, probably led's, almost everything is led's now :)

Haven't used Humbrol but its a respected brand so I'm sure it weill be fine. Just go light.

The lighting I am referring to is overhead shop lighting, or display room lighting. Not internal lighting of the model.

I had both my FM Falcon and my Death Star bathed for six months (not contnuously; whenever in the shop) under two 750 watt halogen work lights mounted overhead. Bad idea. Both models yellowed significantly.
 
Quick peek at the internal support I'm building for the BMF. It's made of MDF, so it's a little heavy, but it will provide solid support. It's 3/4" thick, so that will be the thickness of the new sidewalls. I'll glue and screw styrene sheet to the curved outer edge to start building up the details. The goal is to replicate the 5-footer, at least in spirit. Where you see lines I'll be adding curved supports to increase the top to bottom hull thickness by about 1/2 inch and add more curvature to the hull.View attachment 409124

I'm also reducing the inside edge height of the three-sided docking ring arms (or whatever they're called). On the 5-footer, their height should be lower that the height of the gunport disc.View attachment 409125View attachment 409126
After looking at some more pics..It looks (to me at least) that the gun port disc is too short. Seems like raising up that disc a bit would be an easier fix?
 
Hunk a Junk said:
Quick peek at the internal support I'm building for the BMF. It's made of MDF, so it's a little heavy, but it will provide solid support. It's 3/4" thick, so that will be the thickness of the new sidewalls. I'll glue and screw styrene sheet to the curved outer edge to start building up the details. The goal is to replicate the 5-footer, at least in spirit. Where you see lines I'll be adding curved supports to increase the top to bottom hull thickness by about 1/2 inch and add more curvature to the hull.Attachment 409124

I'm also reducing the inside edge height of the three-sided docking ring arms (or whatever they're called). On the 5-footer, their height should be lower that the height of the gunport disc.Attachment 409125Attachment 409126
After looking at some more pics..It looks (to me at least) that the gun port disc is too short. Seems like raising up that disc a bit would be an easier fix?

Yeah, the 5 footer's turret is taller and has a sharper slope to the hull

J
 
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Yeah, the 5 footer's turret is taller and has a sharper slope to the hull

J
Cool.. Yeah that is what I thought I was seeing. However I know sometimes a certain angle can play tricks with your head. My plan of attack is to perhaps raise up the turret disc and call it a day. Just waiting on the rest of my shapeway parts now. Proud owner of all the parts now :) (or soon to be)... that 20% off sale pushed me off into the deep end :)
 
Yeah, the 5 footer's turret is taller and has a sharper slope to the hull

J
I suppose I should ask...on the smaller falcon..what is correct? The way the hasbro toy is, or which part is wrong. Now that I know whats up with the 5 footer it would be easier to fix if going for that look. I'm just not sure about the smaller one.
 
Wow, thanks for all the tips guys.

I watched one of the Youtube videos and it was similar to what I have seen before. The other one looks good for what I need. I am having trouble just getting the darn thing set up.

My paint cup attaches underneath and does not seem to have anyway to attach. It's a good brand and nice set up so I was a little surprised. I guess sit's friction

Just need to study the vids and practice I guess.

Thanks again for all the tips and upgrade parts and pics and so on.

You guys rock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
You mean you just want to see what's available? Just hit Shapeways and search HSBRO - brings them all up.

If you search for "hsbro falcon" or "hsbro millennium" you should be good :)
Thank you gentleman!
Definitely waiting on the resin kits.
I'm really worried about this thing getting discontinued in a few months so I might as well pick up a few, my Walmart has eight more last I checked ;-)
 
Hi guys!

Sorry for being too late posting here, but I'm really busy designing parts by now for the Hasbro...

Yes, the new Falcon has a new quad radar dish! And I've designed it too!!! You can see it at Shapeways (do a search for "quad radar dish HSBRO").

And yes. I've designed all the upgrades for the new Hasbro baby than Mike commented above: complete set of sidewalls, to replace the stickers, slightly smaller radar dish (67 mm), laser cannons and yoke, complete front and rear landing gear, and cabin cockpit. And Mike will use them to cast a resin kit, cheaper than 3D printed parts.

Actually I'm designing the cabin cone (2 sizes), and I will design too the jawbox sidewalls, the turret well and the boarding ramp. I will adapt also the engine louver arms to the Hasbro scale (on the Hasbro are attached to the hull).

When Mike will be ready on the castings, we will be posting all the details. So, stay tuned!!!

I will try to be connected here often, so be patient if I don't reach RPF daily...

Many thanks to all of you for your big interest in this great project! And thanks to Mike to offer his know-how.

Best


Am I correct in that I read you are not going to do the cockpit and that it will need to be bought on Shapeways??

Thanks

Tom
 
just ordered all side walls, longer cone, radar dish, cockpit kit off of Toney 's store on Shapeways. saved over $60 with Black Friday code. Cant waut. i will say one thing that needs to be said about Shapeways: maybe I'm spoiled by amazon but ordering off that website brings me back to 1998.
 
just ordered all side walls, longer cone, radar dish, cockpit kit off of Toney 's store on Shapeways. saved over $60 with Black Friday code. Cant waut. i will say one thing that needs to be said about Shapeways: maybe I'm spoiled by amazon but ordering off that website brings me back to 1998.
I just got 3 of the sidewalls from shapeways today..they are nice...and super thin(so not sure how awesome a resin one would be over these)..I ordered everything else today and saved 50 bucks...so I can't wait now ! :)
 
I just got 3 of the sidewalls from shapeways today..they are nice...and super thin(so not sure how awesome a resin one would be over these)..I ordered everything else today and saved 50 bucks...so I can't wait now ! :)

Is it as smooth as well done resin is?? I have seen a lot of rough 3D printed stuff lately.
 
Is it as smooth as well done resin is?? I have seen a lot of rough 3D printed stuff lately.
Will attach photo....but...The 2 front sidewalls look very nice. The 3rd part I have so far is the middle side..it appears to have a lot of goo on it. It seems to clean up ok, but mine needs a lot more love to get it all off. Like I mentioned before the sidewalls are very thin..I may have even nicked off something since I have this small chunk of something that may have come off one part, but for the life of me can't figure out where...perhaps it was just some fuzz on the side that fell off. I have never gotten 3d parts before so I can't really compare this to anything, but I "THINK" they will work out really nice. I stuck in one of the sidewalls just to see and it looked awesome! :)

(Comment about the Hasbro Model, not the parts below)
It's becoming clear to me now that the back/rear/middle sidewalls need to be pushed in or the armor panels needs to come out a bit more. Pushing them in would make more sense, but that would make these sidewalls a tiny bit "SHORT" top to bottom since the more you push them in the more room you have from top to bottom. I'd really like to hear from you guys about how far in the sidewalls should be. There just isn't enough overhang of the armor panels over the sidewalls (rear/side) from what I can tell from the photo reference compared to the out of the box ship.

Final thought... I really don't know what would work better..3d printed parts, or the resin. We have a lot of thin parts that if I was casting wouldn't come out right..However I know you have master casters here who can.... but would resin be more durable?
shapeways.jpg

- - - Updated - - -

Sorry the photo is clear parts on a bright backdrop...will retake if anyone really asks :) but this will have to do for tonight.
 
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Am I correct in that I read you are not going to do the cockpit and that it will need to be bought on Shapeways??

Thanks

Tom

Correct, the cockpit will not be cast in resin by Mike as the 3D print has many pre-drilled holes for fiber optic that would not transfer well to it being molded in resin. Plus, it probably would not be much cheaper if done in resin as the 3D part is rather cheap (all things considered) as is.

Here's a shot of the long nose and short nose by FZ6 with 5mm added to the back.
 

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Wow those do look awesome -- details look really good! :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup I know what Jameth1971 means about rough 3D printed parts. TronGod do they actually feel rough to the touch or even look rough magnified (best seen after primer). Normally 3D parts aren't so photogenic in macro shots -- but there's a way around that --- just don't take macro shots and don't view the model too closely. They do look pretty good in your photos though. Regarding resin vs 3D prints, I'd say whatever texture you have on the 3d prints would just be transferred to the resin, unless the 3D parts are treated (sanding/puttying) first -- which can be a challenge for small details. As for strength FUD is kind of brittle, but I guess there aren't any parts jutting out too far that would be prone to breakage, except maybe the guns. Just handle with care like you would any model.
 
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