Delmustator
Sr Member
STEP 1: Cut the metal...
Start with some 3/8 to 1/2 inch aluminum bar stock (can pick it up at Lowes or Home Depot). Cut the bar stock to the lengths desired for your project. I have a bench chop saw that makes quick work of this and cuts it straight. You could do it with a hacksaw or other type of saw but it has to be a straight cut or your pegs will mount with an angle. Clean any metal burs or whatnot from the rough cut peg.
STEP 2: Make the peg tips...
To make the peg tapers, I use a drill and desktop belt sander with flat rotating sanding disk. I put the peg into the drill and spin it with the drill while sanding the edge of the peg at a 45 degree angle against the flat sanding disk surface. It sounds like a lot to do all at once but simple once you do it a couple times. This will give the peg a nice bullet look to it. Note: I've made fake bullet cartridges in this manner as well.
STEP 3: Tap the pegs...
The next step is to drill and tap the peg. To do this, you must drill the proper size hole that matches the thread tap that you want to use. This really depends on the type of screw you intend to use to mount the peg to the shadowbox. I usually will use a 8/32, 10/32 inch or #4/#5 metric screw with an oversized button head. I prefer button allen head screws. But that is your choice to make. Put the peg into a bench vise and using the appropriate size drill bit, drill a hole about 1/2 to 5/8 inch deep into the peg. I usually drill the hole a little off center in the peg. This allows you to fine adjust the peg so you can level your prop in the event your peg is a little off when you drill the hole in your shadowbox. Using the thread tap - tap the hole in the peg until the threads are created, cleaning the metal shavings out of the hole as you go. Your button head screws should be between 3/4 to 1 inch in length. If your prop has any weight to it, you will want to add a flat washer to both the inside and outside of the hole to firmly mount your pegs. Otherwise the weight of your prop will cause the pegs to sag in the box. This acts like a clamp to firmly support the peg and any weight you put on it. The shadowbox back board is a piece of thin particle board and can deform if too much weight is put on the peg. So you need to us the proper length screw to accommodate for any flat washers used and still thread into the peg enough to be secure.
STEP 4: Polish the peg...
Get a piece of 200-300 grit sandpaper and cut some strips that are about 5-6 inches long and 1/2 inch wide. Insert the peg into your drill. Don't wrench it down into the drill chuck so tight that it make marks on the peg, just do enough so it holds the peg firmly. Now while spinning the peg in the drill, wrap the sandpaper around the peg holding the sandpaper edges with your fingers. With the peg spinning in the sandpaper, move the sandpaper up and down the length of the exposed peg shaft. This will polish the rough aluminum to a nice shine. The higher the sandpaper grit, the shinier the aluminum. You will have to flip the peg in the drill to shine the entire surface of the peg. Do this to all the peg you create.
STEP 5: Position your prop in the shadowbox...
Decide where you want your prop to be displayed in the shadowbox. This means laying EVERYTHING you want to be displayed in the box in the position you want it to be. Using a silver sharpie marker in the straight vertical position against your prop, make a small mark where you intend to drill a hole for your peg. The marker is roughly the same diameter of your peg. So where you mark the dot should be the semi-center of where your peg will go.
STEP 6: Install your peg in the shadowbox...
Now that you have everything where you want it to go and the peg locations are marked. Remove everything from the shadowbox and using the same drill bit or slightly larger drill bit, CAREFULLY drill the holes to mount your pegs. I usually drill from the inside of the box to the back. This will produce some dust that you can vacuum out when your done. Drill all the peg holes needed. When your done, vacuum the inside of the box to get any debris out. Insert your screw through the hole in your shadowbox and connect it to the peg until it is finger tight. Test the position with you prop to ensure it's level (or the way you want it). Tighten down the peg so it no longer moves. Put all the your prop stuff in the box where you want it and it's ready to go on the wall.
These illuminated shadowboxes have two wall mounting points that are 10 3/8 inches apart. I use screw-in drywall mounts with counter-sink screws. They work the best. The box is slightly over 16" wide so the center-point is 8". Use a level when marking you wall holes. All done.
I know it would be easier to do this entire thing in a video or pics. I may do that since I need to make a couple pegs for another prop.
Hope this helps.
