Hellboy Prop: Broom's Box. Need info.

[ahoudini]

Thanks, David! I have learned a lot about woodworking with this project. The mistakes, as usual, will be "weathering," right?

The drawers are all assembled using strip bass wood from the hobby store (except the faces which are 1/4" oak from Lowe's). The bottoms are Revell's model airplane plywood (1/8"birch). The rails the drawers slide on are 1/4" x 1/4" basswood strips. Each side of each drawer is just a slightly-over-1" strip with two slightly-less-than-1/4" strips glued to the outside leaving a slightly-wider-than 1/4" groove between them for the rail to slide in. The back is a bass wood strip the same width with no added-on strips. Remember the drawers have to be short enough so the pulls fit behind the door of the box! The pulls are a standard hardware store item made by Hillman

http://wedo.hillmangroup.com/viewitems/miniature/decorative-accessories

(I got them at Ace Hardware).

The bottom is cut snug and glued in ( no fasteners).

There is a "secret" hiding place under the bottom drawer. I wonder what Professor Broom hid there?

 

[ahoudini]

BTW, you certainly could rout the groove in a long, narrow piece of stock and then assemble the drawers using the grooved stock for the sides.

 

[ahoudini]

Well, crap! I only thought I was nearing the end of building this. When I test fit the door, I discovered that it blocks the opening of the bottom drawer. Somehow, I made the fixed piece of the front at the bottom too wide. This is going to be a bitch to fix but I have to come too far now to bail! Measure once, cut twice or something like that!:unsure

 

[ahoudini]

Well, that's better. One scary moment while I ran the whole box through the table saw to cut the bottom of the front down…

 

[airhead]

Nice! I like the rings around the ink bottle openings. And thanks for the details on the drawers - I am thinking about the routed slot on the sides, although a glued up version might be easier.

What do you plan to use for the incised lettering and logo? Adam said that it didn't look like a Dremel and Contec did it the hard way. That oak is tough stuff.

Something that you might try with the weathering (I haven't used it myself, but it should work) is to use a dilute potassium permanganate solution to oxidize the wood. It is a technique used to match aged wood in instrument repairing. I can remember from my misspent youth that it will definately stain your fingers brownish.

David

 

[ahoudini]

Thanks, David. I happen to have a bottle of crystals and I will give it a try. If nothing else it might give contrast to the areas done with vinegar and steel wool as suggested earlier in the thread. I will report back on the results.

I was going to use Contec's transfer trick to get laser printer output onto the wood and then use a Dremel router with a pointed router bit to make a V-shaped groove. I have some practice planks! A CNC router would be best. Another option would be to take it to a sign shop and have them make a rubber stencil and sand blast it.

The rings/holes were done with a hole saw for the ring and then a Forstener bit for the hole.

 

[sskunky]

Nice work!

 

[ahoudini]

Thanks, sskunky!

 

[r1racing]

Thanks, David. I happen to have a bottle of crystals and I will give it a try. If nothing else it might give contrast to the areas done with vinegar and steel wool as suggested earlier in the thread. I will report back on the results.

I was going to use Contec's transfer trick to get laser printer output onto the wood and then use a Dremel router with a pointed router bit to make a V-shaped groove. I have some practice planks! A CNC router would be best. Another option would be to take it to a sign shop and have them make a rubber stencil and sand blast it.

The rings/holes were done with a hole saw for the ring and then a Forstener bit for the hole.

Please, can you ( or contec, of course) explain the transfer method?? I think I missed something..
thanks!

 

[ahoudini]

He uses acetone to melt the toner over onto the wood. I think it is in his Facebook thread:


https://www.facebook.com/media/set/...7.457442094370916&type=1&l=0d3542352a

 

[RobertH]

Sheesh! If I've already said it, it doesn't hurt to say it again...excellent work!

A CNC would definitely make short and easy work of your logo requirement!

Rob

Sent from [location encrypted]...somewhere on the Tharkside of Barsoom

 

[Koipond]

Gah I had a horrible weekend. Between the snow and the violent illness I did not get to work on the Madonna as intended but I have started on the high res version today. Could one of you guys building a box give me the dimensions of the panel it will be placed on so I can get my base proportions right?

 

[falconNL]

This is a beautiful piece, i love the woodwork and all the little things inside the box...i just love boxes ^^

 

[ahoudini]

Koipond,

On mine the image should be 3 1/2" x 8 7/8". If so about 1/16" of the image will be under the edge of the frame all the way around. Thanks!

 

[ahoudini]

Thanks, RobertH!

 

[RobertH]

Thanks, RobertH!

My pleasure...just call em as I see em!

Shame we're not neighbors or something...I own a CNC

Rob

Sent from [location encrypted]...somewhere on the Tharkside of Barsoom

 

[Koipond]

Koipond,

On mine the image should be 3 1/2" x 8 7/8". If so about 1/16" of the image will be under the edge of the frame all the way around. Thanks!

LOL! then this will be much easier for you guys to print. The high res original I was working from was over 14 inches at 600 dpi.

 

[ahoudini]

Excellent!

 

[ahoudini]

RobertH:

Maybe we are? I am in Roanoke, VA ( also "Smalltown, USA"!)

 

[RobertH]

RobertH:

Maybe we are? I am in Roanoke, VA ( also "Smalltown, USA"!)

I used to live in Centreville, VA when I was working in DC (retired Army guy). I'm a few states away now...I'll PM ya where, as my location is an ongoing joke quest on another forum board...and it has some cross-pollination here

Rob

Sent from [location encrypted]...somewhere on the Tharkside of Barsoom