GONK!

thank you, its funny here in the states we have say 1/2" plywood but it measures much smaller then 1/2". just like our construction material our 2x4 wood studs are advertised and sold as 2x4, yet they measure 1-1/2 by 3-1/2 lol

.354 is close to 3/8th plywood. if 3/8th is purchased its probably close to .354

thank you for your advice! I'm really itching to do this
It's really hard with different measurements! I believe that you can find the best plywood [emoji6]



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It's really hard with different measurements! I believe that you can find the best plywood [emoji6]



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seriously thank you for your advice and sharing your measurements, i appreciate it
 
I made the side E:
Image1467570760.675986.jpg
Than I started on feet, but I have no pics now.


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Coming along nicely there, it's the fastest prop you will ever build for the size,
Everybody build a power droid, come on.
Half inch 12mm very cheap "shuttering ply" is the board I used for mine, better quality ply could be thinner which must be better for weight :)
 
I use 9 mm (3/8 in) "plywood for building site" cheaper than other I've seen. [emoji4]


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Last update before the vacation...
I spent a lot of time making the feet. First I was making the nibs as full parts (from glued pieces of wood), which turned out as a not so good plan. So, I started again...
But this time I just drilled single pieces of the feet together. Now it looks like this:
Image1467641616.878621.jpg
The nibs and the whole feet are hollow.
It needs some bondo, but it is much better than my first attempt [emoji4]
What do you think? [emoji4]
 
this is coming together great!! feet look awesome! do you plan on routering the edges of the box? i was just curious to how the GONK builders get the corners smooth. i dont know how you could make the intersections match with routing the corners... maybe I'm over thinking it
 
this is coming together great!! feet look awesome! do you plan on routering the edges of the box? i was just curious to how the GONK builders get the corners smooth. i dont know how you could make the intersections match with routing the corners... maybe I'm over thinking it

I think I will just take sandpaper on them. And I made the GONK splittable into two parts, so there shouldn't be any problem with matching the intersections with corners...
 
A router with the appropriate roundover bit can be used to round the corners yes, if you do this though you need to reinforce the inside in the corners.
On mine there are little triangles of batten glued in so the thing still holds together after routering had removed most of the strength.

Also one tip for the feet, as the legs seem to come down right in the centre of the body, having a little extra bit sticking out the back of the heel will help stability.
I did this on mine but I didn't put it on the plans I posted. It will also help if they are very heavy too :)
 
A router with the appropriate roundover bit can be used to round the corners yes, if you do this though you need to reinforce the inside in the corners.
On mine there are little triangles of batten glued in so the thing still holds together after routering had removed most of the strength.

Also one tip for the feet, as the legs seem to come down right in the centre of the body, having a little extra bit sticking out the back of the heel will help stability.
I did this on mine but I didn't put it on the plans I posted. It will also help if they are very heavy too :)

do you know the exact name of the bit we need to make the round corners? or have pictures of the triangle plates you made?
 
i just converted all those Metric measurements to US, had to round up here and there but i got it close. i was just curious, how heavy the 3/8th plywood is vs 3/8 mdf? when going mdf there is less sanding but i dont know how strong it is compared to the pine..

if you were to do this again would you use pine plywood again? or would you choose another material? you really have me on a kick for this, i may just start throwing this together for comic con in November..
 
i just converted all those Metric measurements to US, had to round up here and there but i got it close. i was just curious, how heavy the 3/8th plywood is vs 3/8 mdf? when going mdf there is less sanding but i dont know how strong it is compared to the pine..

if you were to do this again would you use pine plywood again? or would you choose another material? you really have me on a kick for this, i may just start throwing this together for comic con in November..

I haven't worked with mdf yet, but from what I have heard and read I think that the mdf is not so strong as plywood and can be easily damaged. It is maybe better for smaller props, not for those of this scale.
I am satisfied with plywood, you can do a lot with it [emoji4]
 
Turns out that I didnt put the triangle sections in, I just checked inside mine and I just laid in a thick bead of solvent based gap filling adhesive (gripfil), I used what looks like a 10mm radius routher bit and it left the butt joints intact.
Like Torron I much prefer plywood to mdf but then mine is very distressed paintwise :)
 
I haven't worked with mdf yet, but from what I have heard and read I think that the mdf is not so strong as plywood and can be easily damaged. It is maybe better for smaller props, not for those of this scale.
I am satisfied with plywood, you can do a lot with it [emoji4]

thanks for the advice. MDF is also very bad to breath in when cutting it.

I was just curious what was stronger has I've never really worked with MDF because of the fear of breathing it in

electric palm sander should smooth that plywood out fine.


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