Four foot X-wing work in progress(photo heavy)

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Well,here it is. The fuselage plan. I just need to upscale this to the four foot dimensions,and I can cut out the materials for the master. This is just the begining of the old fuselage,and engines but I'm going to use this anyway,and just enlarge this to the correct proprotions.

I have the new engines made for the most part. Now I'm going to make all the other parts in raw form,then I'll add the greeblies,and details to all the major assemblies. Afterwards,I'll make the pilot,and R2-D2 unit for this. I'll reinforce this last to make sure that it'll be a sturdy model once cast in resin.

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This is the original plan,but I resized this to the correct proportions.
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The original canopy plan.
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Pepekura method for paper modeling. This saved me a lot of hassle trying to figure out how to make a canopy without wasting a lot of material,and money.
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This is after I cut it out,but I hadn't yet cut out the fuselage.
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The small plate laying beside it is for the plates that cover the mounting holes for the panavise.
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Here,I crudely scrawled out a rough draft of the hyperdrive motivator,and fuselage shape. I used the canopy to extrapolate the dimensions for the fuselage,and wing(which all turned out to be too small).
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More crude drafting follows.


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This is the bottom of the fuselage.
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The vault of the hyperdrive motivator. Many people call this the "buttplate" for a lack of knowing the correct term for it.
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Cut out,and nowhere to go! This still awaits the bottom of the fuselage,and finishing touches to it.
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The bell housing will be finished tomorrow,and then the fuselage will be all I have to rough out before final assembly,and finishing of the wings,and engines. Then,I'll finish up the fuselage,and all the small details.
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In the above photo I'm doing the water test to see if the glue sealed all the way around the perimeter.




In this photo you can see the acrylic(Perslpex,or Lexan)that I cut for the ribs that will go on the bottom of the engine shroud for the intake. These go on the front edge.
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A view from above. These aren't glued to it yet at this moment,I still have to glue 60 grit sandpaper to the outside of this with 3-M spray adhesive. This will allow me to sand the inside contact surface to the correct radius of the engine shroud. Therefore,once these are sanded to shape,I can glue it,and not have to worry about gaps between the two surfaces.
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This photo's a little fuzzy,but you can see that this isn't in its' finished form yet. If you look closely,you'll see the gap between the engine shroud,and the acrylic itself.
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This is an experiment with taping the discs to a drill bit with the cone for the bell housings' internal support in a poor attempt at rounding these to a symmetrical shape. This would have worked if I used a nut,and bolt fastening. I've been sick,but that shouldn't affect my lucidity. For some reason - all thoughts of using the latter system went out the window that day!
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More close up shots. DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME - It FAILED for the most part!!!! The tape kept breaking loose as I pushed the disc against the sanding block,no matter how well I secured it on both sides - of course,holding a sanding block in the other hand without proper bracing doesn't make for a perfectly circular shape! I'll use an arbor for this to do the final shaping of the discs. This will hold them indefinately,and ensure proper accuracy!
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This is the begining of the pattern I'll use for the bell housing shape inside the engine intake.
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Here is a comparison shot of the cone that I'll use for the internal support of the bell shape. This was sanded with 220 grit,and will need to be sanded again to the proper shape,so that the bottom won't be asymmetrical,or what fellow RPF members call "wonky". Asymmetric means that it's not even all the way around,as it should be.
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You can see that this is smoother on the right. You can't really see it against the white background in this photo,or the one above,but I filled the dent on the side with superglue,and baking soda. I sanded it to the shape of the cones' edge so that this won't have a void in the final product.
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I'll post more photos today.
 
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I'll let the photos speak for themselves for the most part.

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This is the front of the assembly on a 3/8" drill bit. I did this to make sure that these would align with proper symmetry when glued together.
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A view from the side. These have been roughed out to the final shape,but they still need to be sanded smooth from the machining process.
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Acrylic discs made for the bottom half of the bell housing. I made these from acrylic,as I ran out of vinyl EVH MusicMan control covers.
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I decided to cut the cone off instead of trying to cut the insides of the circles out to match its' symmetry.
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None of these are glued yet,but just stacked for this photo,and the one below it.
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This is what it will look like once glued together on the base plate.
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Here are the comparison shots that I used for reference.


From the port(left)side engine front view.

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From the port(left side).

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Its a pleasure to watch you do this build & its coming along brilliantly. Just out of interest where did you get all those EVH parts? Do you work for Ernie Ball or a distributer. I tried to get an EVH pickup for a friend years ago & had to go through the most unbelievable procedure to get one.
 
Thanks Guy! Coming from you,that means a lot to me.

As for the EVH control covers. I made them. I'm a machinist(by trade),and I have an EVH guitar that I copied them from. I can get EVH parts all day! They're plentiful here. I'll send you a PM with a photo of the EVH body that I personally made last year. Thanks again. ~ Chris
 
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Dyonisis, could I trouble you to use smaller pics? Even with broadband this thread takes a while to load. An occasional big pic is appropriate when you need to see fine detail, but all of these pics could be cropped and/or reduced to a fifth their size and still make their point.

Anyway, as I said before, this is a cool project! :)
 
Dyonisis, could I trouble you to use smaller pics? Even with broadband this thread takes a while to load. An occasional big pic is appropriate when you need to see fine detail, but all of these pics could be cropped and/or reduced to a fifth their size and still make their point.

Anyway, as I said before, this is a cool project! :)
Forgive me treadwell. I don't know how to resize these,as photobucket resizes them for me. I can make them smaller if you need me to. I'll check into this today.

Dyonisis, are you the one that posted in eagle1's thread about planning on making this same X-Wing? Is yours 1/6 or 1/12?
Post number 5 http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=57068
Yes I am.
Question for you, are you going to make the main body out of fiberglass or resin?
I'll make mine out of balsa,and cover it in sheet styrene. Then,I'll reiforce it with acrylic,and fibreglas resin. Afterwards,I'll have all this cast in urethane resin. I'll also make an armature for this out of steel,unless I can get a hollow aluminum tube locally for a decent price.

I've been a luthier from '89 to present day. I just recently took up machining so that I could better serve my customers. A mutual friend of mine and my buddy of twenty years,took of with most of the tooling( with about $10,000.00 worth of bills left behind),so he and I are recovering from our loss. This(modelmaking)is what I'm doing in the meantime. If this is well recieved,then I might consider offering these as full kits. This will be a little over four feet in length - 4'.2" to 4'.4" from nosecone to afterburner,and about four feet wide.

More update coming.................right NOW!
 
This is a small object,so I have to use big photos for clarity. My apologies,to those that have dial-up. I'll truly let most of the photos speak for themselves this time around.


I made this in the early afternoon today. I would've uploaded them sooner,but I had to answer a few PMs,and upload these to my photobucket account. I used this first,but I inserted it in too far,and had to drill it out,and make a new one from stretched sprue.
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This was reshaped to match the tip of the original model.
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This looks like the tip of a waterbottle - doesn't it?
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This is a 1/2 MM. machinists' drill bit.
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Yes,I'm actually crazy enough to drill into this 3/32"nd of inch styrene tip.
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The finial glued together. This will be the tip of the bell housing.
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This is after final fitting,and trimming.
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I think Dyonisis / Newbie are the same person (build photos mirrored on different photobucket accounts) however this same individual, for whatever reason seemed to have contempt for Bob for whatever reason so I can't be sure. I just think it's sort of upsetting to see what's going on over at the "other" forum, considering the pool of talent.
 
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No way that is Bob. The posting style and model work is nothing like his.

It's getting hard to see original work these days. If someone is producing good work, do they really have to be banned. I mean, REALLY?:confused

Mike
 
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