I don't like to bag on licensee's products as I (obviously) am kinda sensitive to this issue. So I will just state some clarifications as I have learned them. It IS the PL model. I was told by someone working on the project. So let's put that to rest. WHY do a whole new one if you have access to a very good kit? I would probably do the same thing.
When I did the P&Ls for QMx, there were EIGHTY other cost-line-items that get attached to each product, so the raw product cost is actually not the biggest factor in a P&L. So I understand the $5k price. I would never PAY it, but I understand it.
There are a ton of corrections that have to be done to the PL model to make it look like the filming model from TMP. A TON. I have been researching this project...collecting reference images, reading what others have done, talking to other modelers for opinions, for almost three years.
One guy documented the corrections here:
Polar Lights Enterprise Refit WIP 12
This is the most-thorough re-do on this model I have seen documented to-date and has been a God-send reference on my build. I would hug that guy if I could. But it is STILL not 100%. I have found
more...
I am currently at about 70% completed on my model and I have been working on it (on and off) for two years. If I was building this for someone, I would have to charge $10,000 to $15,000 and it still wouldn't cover my time. Seriously.
I have almost completed all of the corrections that the gentleman above noted PLUS a bunch more he missed. When I get this done, I will probably have 400 to 500 hours into it. And I am sure I have missed some details...
This is a VERY hard model to get "right". You CANNOT replicate the paintjob on the original, so forget it. You can do a GREAT job and it will look very nice, but you can't match what the original guy did. If you don't believe me, head over to Hobbytalk and read the gazillion pages of documentation that folks have done on their models PLUS an interview with the artist man who painted the filming model. And then just CRY. :cry
The aztec changes wildly with lighting, angle, etc. It is NOT a set pattern. It is NOT what you think you see. It is different in every picture. I had no idea what was actually there until I spent a couple of hours reading the Hobbytalk forum threads. Wow. My head hurts.
I actually changed my plans after reading through those 50 pages of discussion. Very interesting. The best you can do is use the available decal sets and sorta-copy the look, OR use the Aztec dummy set and ditto. I have seen a few custom-paintjobs that are absolutely staggering, but STILL not exactly like the original.
So, what have I found?
-If you plan to do a full-tilt, balls-to-the-wall model of this ship, using the PL kit, you will need to spend about $600 to $700. JUST for parts.
- You can't replicate the lighting scheme as seen on-screen. Forget it. They used 50 dental mirrors and millions of dollars of lighting equipment to do the lighting. Doug T has an interview on the TMP deluxe DVD. Watch it and learn. Some folks have "faked" the "light blossoms" around the markings, by lighting the model from inside through the plastic. I have seen this effect in-person and I think this looks BAD up-close, so I am not doing it. That is just MY opinion. You can do what you like.
-You CANNOT make the model "accurate" if you don't use the aftermarket photo-etch set and resin upgrade parts. Some of the kit parts are just TOO off and some details are completely missing. Period.
-You will also need the Acreation decal set. You have to use a combination of BOTH the kit and aftermarket decal sets to get it accurate.
-The aztec colors on the Acreation decal set are much better than the PL decals (which are mono-tone) but are still too "intense". I knocked them down with a clear-white overspray and then will pick out specific areas with the airbrush once applied... and then pearl over-coats on top of that.
I am still going to apply about 20% of the aztecing by airbrush as neither decal set is "absolutely complete". And IMO, applying decals in some locations would look "goofy".
If you want the TMP model, the engineering section is GREEN. If you are doing the 1701-A, (or later) it is BLUE. I am trying to match the colors as accurately as I can. My biggest disagreement with some of the finished models I have seen (and the FX model) is that the colors are too "garish". The key here is "subtlety". The colors used on the 8-foot model MUST be toned down on the 3-footer. Or it will look like a toy. Sorry. eg; the bridge is NOT gold! It is platnium. It has a very subtle gold-tone. The blues used must be subtle as well. Lighten those colors people!!!
-If you are making the TMP model, do NOT use the current photos of the "A" for complete reference. It was changed a number of times. There are differences!
-Some people are mixing the movie models up. Do what you like I guess, but it drives me crazy! Don't put the A paintjob on the TMP model. Don't put the Trek 5 hangar in the TMP model!!! Insanity! :lol TWOK is a combination of a LOT of stock footage from TMP PLUS a re-worked, repainted, toned-down model, so that is a toughie to copy. Not worth the effort. It is a contradiction.
-I am up to about 170 LEDs and still going. Oy. I used the TREK modeler lighting kit PLUS Gerry Mros made me some custom boards. PLUS I rigged up some things myself. PLUS I am using fiber-optics for some of the teeny lights. This thing is HARD to do. It is the most difficult model I have wired up in my 35 years of model-making.
-The formation lights on the top/back of the saucer don't blink. That's why they are FORMATION LIGHTS. Stop making them blink. They are static in he movie, as they should be.
-There is NO WAY the FX guys could pad-print the models they are making. That is silly. They don't have millions of dollars of pad-printing equipment on-hand. They are using the kit decals. It just makes sense. It won't be completely accurate...but This is a semi-mass produced model. They CANNOT spend 400 hours on each one. They would go bankrupt.
For $5000, you will get a very nice model. It will not be super-accurate, but it WILL be nice.
It will be good-enough for most of the folks who will buy one.
For me...I am doing my own thing.