HELP NEEDED - HCG Terminator Flying Hunter Killer 60 inch Model Paint Damage

mikmik

Good Afternoon all Model Fans,

I thankyou all for reading my post because at the moment im stuck between a rather expensive problem.

Im seeking advise on what others would do in my position, and im hoping some of the experienced modellers and painters in these forums may assist me with some advise since I have exhausted all avenues on my end.

To keep the story short, I'll only fill you in on the basics.
I purchased the 60" Flying Hunter Killer from the Philippines and had it shipped to Australia (where I live) at the end of 2009.
The item was fully insured so I have been battling the insurance company and shipping company for compensation for the last 8 months. This week I have been told there is no chance of any settlement because no one is assuming responsibility for the damage during transit, which is how it arrived.

The Terminator Flying Hunter Killer I ordered had been shipped inside a container (due to the huge size) but during the voyage the container must have been exposed to a large amount of heat as the plastic wrapping protecting the HK model had stuck to the body of the model and melted the paint, eventually creating uneven and deep lines.

I have included pictures below for all to see, and the damage ranges across the whole ship, some sections are far worse then others but the model is very disfigured with melted paint markings all on it.

I did attempt to contact HCG directly to possibly get advise and help, but after one E-Mail they informed me to go back to the original seller.
HCG have unfortunately proven to be useless as my E-Mails for help (not asking for a refund) have gone unheard and unreplied.

To those of you which are model paint detailers and guru's, I reach out to you for advise.
I have spent over $4000 dollars importing this model as my grand display piece but currently it's a display disaster.

My last resort will be to strip the damaged paint off the HK and respray the model myself, let me assure you, I am no expert with paint / detailing or airbrushing.
Since I live in Australia (Adelaide to be precise), I have tried to seek out professional painters and detailers which may be able to rectify the damaged sustained and make the HK model shine but unfortunately the city I live in doesn't have anyone I have found.

Any help would be fantastic and appreciated

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krusinclone

Sorry for the troubles your having. Might I ask what it is made of? As paint strippers of certain types might harm the model..

Wes R

I agree. Alot of the strippers will take the paint off but if left on too long will ravage the model. I used to use oven cleaner but you have to be fast with that. Have you looked into Autobody shops or car customizers to do the repaint?

ONEYE

Maybe you could try to put a small amount of mineral spirits on a clean cloth and see if you can wipe off the paint/damage. Just do a small spot in a damaged area and see if it takes it off? If it does, wait a day to see if that spot is still ok. If it is, do the rest of it in sections.

As far as repainting... if you can take off the paint in the damaged parts, you could spray the entire Aerial HK with black sandable primer, then spray it with dull aluminum, then spray again with the black primer and wipe off with mineral spirits in the same way many of us did with morganthirteen's endorifle. It will give it a battlefield used look, but if there are imperfection in the surfaces they would look natural.

propologist

just weather it more and call it done..they where never clean on space

GF

First off sorry for all the trouble you went threw, anybody into models should know never to use plastic wrapper directly onto a painted model surface, especialy a glossy or silver finish.

Since the model has many flat not detailed surface, I would wet sand the marks until nice and smooth then primer and respray the whole model with a new paintjob.

OR if you prefer to START FRESH, strip the whole paint down.


Seeing that the paint was affected by heat/humidity this means the paint should be easy to be stripped off, I would recommend using EASY OFF OVEN Cleaner, this will not harm the plastic or fiberglass finish it's made of, I striped a few expensive and very highy detailed delicate models which was the only way to go because it would be impossible to sand.

Just spray the EASY OFF Oven cleaner directly onto model and close it in a plastic bag, let the fumes do the work, just leave it in the bag for a a few hours, do a small section first to see the results, this should strip the paint right off to the original model surface, wipe off surface, use a toothbrush for small areas, then wash the entire model with warm water and dishwashing soap, an let dry, spray model with a self etching primer then paint whatever aluminum color paint you prefer, all painting can be done using off the shelf spray cans, you don't need a airbrush! for all the recess panel lines you can use a water base diluted black wash, this means a very diluted black paint you just brush over the lines and wipe excess leaving the black paint only in the recess lines. The airbrush is need for the weathering over the panel lines

BTW many had success stripping models with car brake fluid, I never used it personally but people in the model world have had great success.

Hope this helps!

GFollano

Jediguy

hey mate, why not clean her up then take her to an auto store that does custom body work. I'm sure they might be willing to help you out. They would definitely know how to do those chrome finishes

CessnaDriver

I don't think I would strip it off, rather just sand it down and repaint.

There are chrome paints now that shops can use.

Would you like to see that sucker chrome? I would!

ralphee

Before you do ANY of the above, try a light paint cutting compound first, buff it in and tediously polish out what you can. Try auto glym maybe, its very fine but Tcut could be used, its just more aggressive, try it, just may save you.

Lee

mikmik

Hello All,

I thankyou all for your help and responces so far, to briefly answer some of your questions here is my responce along with questions I sill have:

1- krusinclone - Im unsure of what the HK is made from, looks like a white resin from what I can tell from the removed paint but I can't be certain. The model is very very heavy so it could just be a big clump of resin?
Im not sure of how to find out what it's made from.

2- cobalt crimson - I definately haven't considered any Automotive spray shops, but I will have to look into it, depending on cost of course.
Those guys are definately good at painting evenly with spray guns.
I just don't want the model sprayed over with all the damage still on it as it be pointless as the damage would still be evident.

3- Oneye - I like your suggestion of using mineral turps, but what signs am I looking for on the test area which your warning me off?
If I did managed to take off the paint on the damaged parts, what is the look your refering too, I understand putting the black primer on, then dull aluminum, and then black brimer again. I just don't know what effect it will give and look like in the end. Do they have shiney aluminum instead of dull?

4- GF - Can you please explain more of the "wet sand" process your referring too, im unfimilar with this? If I do just patch up and smooth with primer, am I able to spray over the rest of the models paint? Will it adhere to it OK?
Can you let me know more of the water base diluted black wash your refering too for the recess panel lines, I've never used or herd this? This is all new to me.......... And further help would be great, I do appreicate your time.

5- Jediguy - Thanks for the suggestion of taking her into an auto store! This might be an option if I go down the metal chrome avenue which I think would look great! But at what cost is the the car resprayer going to charge? Hopefully not too much.

6- CessnaDriver - Thanks for the suggestion of sanding it down but it may take days to go down that option, getting into every little space.
But the more I think about it, the more im starting to like the shiney chrome appearance just like the movie.........

7- ralphee - Could you please advise me of what this cutting compound "Auto Glym" buff out and polish can do. Im sure some sections of the ship might be able to be saved using this method but other groves and lines are quite deep and large. Plus, Auto Glym may not be available in Australia, but I shall look to see if I can find and read up on it.


Has any one herd or used Chroming on plastic? I know metal parts get it applied on all the time but apparently they can put it on plastic also?
It's not the spray paint im refering too, but propper chroming, but this might not be an option as the cost may be very very high.

Many Thanks to all, and if you have any last suggestion then I'd lobve to hear them. I have some researching to do now, and especially quotes from Automotive spray painters.

Mike

Lancer

I can't figure how the insurance company etc have managed to squirm out of paying up.

simple fact is the product arrived damaged. not what you paid for. bizarre

Nighteyes

I really like the idea of taking it to an auto shop. You would probably better off at a place that specializes in custom paint. You never know when you'll find a fellow fan who might be excited to take on a different kind of challenge at work. More importantly find a place that seems genuinely interested in the job.

You should still try to salvage the original finish. But looking at those picks, it seems the paint-job is very assembly line. Silver base and brown airbrushed panel lines. Not that there is anything wrong with that but at that size it really deserves a little more attention to detail IMO. Up until now I had no idea a studio scale hunter killer existed. Very cool.

moffeaton

I reckon that if you paid four THOUSAND dollars to get it to you, if you want the "factory fresh" look, you should probably pony up the extra $$ an auto body shop would charge. They'd do it cleanly, and have the proper facilities to paint a large surface area and let it cure properly... Do you have pets/plan to do it outside? Unless I had a clean room, I'd be hesitant to do it myself on something so expensive, large, and with an unforgiving chrome finish. Any dust or debris is going to show on chrome!

GF

Looking at the photos it definetely doesn't have a chrome finish but more of a very simplified sliver/aluminum color which can be achieved with a spray can, at that size any automotive shop would do a good job, they could actualy closely match the color, but they won't do the wash unless the guy painting it is into model building.

Wet sanding is basically a very fine sanding paper which you constanently wet so it gives you a very smooth finish without leaving sanding marks, it will only remove the surface imperfections, you will have more control without heavily sanding the model surface, you just want to sand down all the marks to the level of the base paintjob so you can apply primer and repaint the whole model.

The automotive shop can do it for you. it shouldn't be very expensive, just wet sand the affected areas and repaint the whole model.

a WASH is a highly diluted paint, just buy a water base black or Very dark brown paint and diluted so it flows into the lines, no need to be a clean job, just apply over recess lines and wipe off excess, this will only leave the paint in the recess panel lines.

Do a search on YOUTUBE "how to apply a wash on model" and also "Wet sand" you will be amazed how easy it is.

GFollano

ralphee

As for cutting compounds/polishes, just google them, i would have thought AutoGlym would be available in Australia, as its a world recognised brand on automotive circles.
Any auto store over there would be able to help.
Be very careful doing this, too much rubbing, will take you down to the primer coat, but depending on paint thickness, a LOT of what i see in your pics, looks repairable by buffing, itll be tedious, but worth it before you even think of a full repaint, if all else fail, you just wasted a little bit of time, and not a lot of money on cleaning up the silver base coat.

Use a lint free cloth, and a tip, old Tee shirts work very well as there virtually no abrasion.

Oh and this WILL remove the wash and weather effects, but that is easily replaced with washes as GF stated, and an airbrush.

lee

GF

It wasn't broken or scratched because of rough handling, the smart person who packaged the model wrapped the model with plastic wrapping which is a big no no, with the heat/humidity and probably the paint wasn't cured enough the plastic wrapping stuck to the model leaving marks.

I would assume full responsabilty to the guys he bought it from, and should pay all the repainting fees, did you send them photos showing what happened? you should tell them the paint wasn't fully cured and the reason the plastic glued onto model, they should at least know how stupid they are.


GFollano

ONEYE

If it looks like the mineral spirits is eating away at the HK I wouldn't use it.

It would look like the endorifles that some of us assembled/painted. There is shiney aluminum, even chrome. I was leaning more towards a battlefield weathered look.

28injection

Yeah, echoing Lancer and GF, i cant see how the Insurance can NOT pay out for this.

Anyway, i have had this happen to a prop i had and the only way i sorted it was to stip the paint back to the base level. My advice to you is to find out what its made of first. Being 60 inches in length it may be a vinyl peice not resin. Either way you need to be carefull what you put on it.

There are some people on this board who are also from Australia so they may chime in later.

mikmik

Good morning to all,

And thankyou for the advice and options you have all given me so far, please keep them coming should there be something new I might prefer.

To reply to some of your posts:

"Lancer" - I absolutely agree, the freight via Seamail was fully insured, and yet I have been hitting my head against the wall for the last 7 months.
It's taken 7 months for me to get an answer because I've been fighting and battling so hard. The final fact is that I will never bother insuring anything again, because its the biggest waste of time and money EVER!
You suspect your covered, but the Insurance company never has any true intention to compensate when something goes wrong.
Robbed is my situation.

"Nighteyes" - Your right, if I find and select the right auto shop, with the right people then I certainly will be in luck. Lets hope it pans out that way.
The pictures I posted are only x10, I have approximately x25 but I couldn't upload them all, all look very tragic and don't get better.

"moffeaton" - Your right, I've already spent so much money already, whats another $500 for an auto body shop respray, they cant stuff it up any worse then the shipping company has already !!!!

"GF" - Thanks for your continuing support and suggestions!
What sort of sand paper do you recommend me try, I have some 600 and 1200 at home... would this be fine enough when wet to not scratch the HK?
The wash you mentioned to fill in the lines, wouldnt this almost be able to be achieved using normal black paint, as long as I wipe the excess of right away.
I'll look up the method on Youtube and absorb the tutorial so I can try to do it right.
Over the last 7 months its been the seller which has been very helpful at his end but has never assumed responcibility or offered a refund/compensation of any sort. The Insurance was there to cover both of us, but that hasn't worked.
So he won't want to lose money by selling the HK which was in good condition before shipping as I had received pictures before the sale.
So that leaves me with the bill and damaged goods.

"ralphee" - I've done a search and have found Australian auto retailers to sell the Autoglym brand. I'll attempt to buy some over the weekend and give it a try, otherwise I shall be stripping the paint off and starting over again.

"Oneye" - I'll make sure I don't use too much mineral spirits so it doesn't eat away at the HK. I'll apply and wipe to minimise on damaging it any further.
The least I need is to putty holes and bumps.......
I think I'll watch some scenes of T2 and see what the movie screen used prop surface looks like, but I dont think it was the dull silver which HCG made it like, I think they took the chea easy painted option.

"28 injection" - I wish I had the Insurance company come to the party, I even attempted to meet them half way in the last few months and asked for the cost of repairs only, not even wanting the full Insured amount, but no. They hold no responcibility that the damage occured under the shippers care. Bullsh*t.
But enough of that as it only pi*ses me off more........
I'll try finding out what it's made from but im no modeller so I won't know whats what, or what's been used. To me (an amatur), I just see the colour and guess what the HK is made from. I don't know differences between resins or vinyl? I imagine it would be made from the cheapest material they could use to make more profit and make the project worth while.


My main dilemma, when I look at the Flying Hunter Killer, I can't even notice that theres a primer underneath the paint. Looks as if the paint was applied directly on which could exlain why the paint is so soft and easy to come off under any sort of heat?

Standby all for me to try some cut and smoothing the paint techniques before I go all the way and use paint stripper suggest by you.
Lets see which one works best.

Nighteyes

Holy crap dude you just aced a single post reply.

Good luck!

swpropmaker

Just saw this! Man that sucks! I found a company in Canada that will Vacuum metalize the large Flying HK.... once mine is sanded glass smooth it's taking a trip north for vac chroming! Good luck stipping and getting yours back into shape! Who did you buy this from? Did i miss it in the the thread?

Steve

LastBattlestar

Hi there Mik, sorry to see this cool model looking so sad. It looks like a strip down and re-finish to me, unfortunately. Just a suggestion, but there are places that plastic chrome old car instrument clusters etc. that may be able to help you.

Try these guys:

Electroplating and Metal Finishing Services - A Class Metal Finishers Pty Ltd

I'd sure like to drop in sometime and see the HK if you're keen!

Mike

Nwerke

I agree with Mike, you're probably going to struggle getting that smooth, and even if you do you'll still have to redo the weathering. How have you got on so far?

Personally I'd go with the Easy-Off. If you try it, avoid the 'non-caustic' kind. Caustic is what you want. Don't breathe the fumes, do have the model in the open air with a running hose handy to wash it off. Two or three minutes should be enough before you start scrubbing (with a toothbrush or similar). Don't do huge areas all at once. The paint will start to re-harden if you leave it too long.

Wear rubber gloves and do not inhale or get the stuff on your hands. They call it caustic for a reason! Give it a chance and it'll turn the fat in your skin to soap.

Oh! Forgot to add the alternative approach: don't even try to fix it, just sell it to me for half what you paid.

Seriously, good luck.

LastBattlestar

Another idea would be to repaint with Alclad chrome metallized paint. Very tricky to use with an airbrush, but it's basically chrome straight out of the gun.

GKFX used it to paint a Naboo Fighter. Do a search at RI (not sure if it was featured here), but the results are spectacular. It can be buffed up to achieve varying levels of reflectivity.

Mike

CessnaDriver

I'm a little less of an Alclad fan then I was before.
It's chrome quality fades with time at least without some kind of sealer, if there is one.