Another trick you might want to make note of or even put text in your video.
when setting your blue tape, MARK the red line but don't CUT at the red line. Give yourself a "tail" of tape.
at 3:36 when you get to the end of your stencil and you're ready to pull the tape off so you can lay the other end down. Now is the time where you push the stencil down really tightly and burnish it from the backside so that it adheres really well to the V2. when you do that you won't have to use an exacto blade to get it started. just lift up on a corner of your "tail" and pull back tightly at that same extreme angle against itself. The Stencil will stay laying down flat and you won't have to fight to separate it
so
1. apply it gently so you can get it lined up but stop before you get to the end.
2. rub it down with force and burnish it so it sticks well
3. pull back the tail of first edge, tight against itself at a sharp angle so the stencil sticks
4. lay the second edge down so the edges meet
5. peel the rest of the tape off.
One thing I saw in @scottjua’s blaster stencil video was that he stuck the tape to his shirt or pants first before sticking it to the stencil. Picking up a little lint or fuzz helps the stencil transfer easier onto the surface of the saber, or blaster in Scott’s case.
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FYI, you can apply 8,9,10, and 11 with the emitter off. It'll make it easier to handle and to get 8 in that groove.
Made mine with this, and works with the square angleneed some advice guys... trying to dent and chip my nipple bung... this has got to be hardened steel... i attempted to mill it a few weeks ago.. and it sure felt a lot stronger then normal steel. i could be wrong and just use to working with soft metals..
but i used my center punch to make a little dimple in it.. no luck... broke out my harden punch... this things mean business... nothing... I even sharpened a huge spike nail, when I hit it, it bent the tip of the spike nail like play doh...
i am debating on going to try and find some 5/16 round at the steel yard... im having no luck with the bung...
on a positive note, i did flatten it down on my bench sander and i like the grain in it. looks like saw grain
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180518/5ad43844fd8d58c7dc22043ee7ab8fe3.jpg
Made mine with this, and works with the square angle
Works pretty good https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/0069ea440cebc63dcf3f054fc5326012.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180519/db95388096e932163704424f80ae8b8e.jpg
Great video Danny !!! Cant wait to see more and to make my own !! Such a tease.im going to try this! thank you!
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Great video Danny !!! Cant wait to see more and to make my own !! Such a tease.
Awesome thread halliwax. I’m contemplating airbrushing these stencils at a low psi in hopes of capturing more surface detail and gaining more control of the paint. If anybody else here airbrushed, can someone recommend some good paints for this hilt?
I am in need of a air brush setup... punishes Props has a great video on his YouTube page.
Adam savage also has high dollar brushes but says he uses his cheap 100 dollar single action brush the most
I use to take air brush lessons when I was a kid... boy that’s a long time ago now..
If I were to air brush this, it would all be in lacquer
Judging by the pop culture video I swear that’s a lacquer paint. But who knows, probably just cheap 70s rattle can crap lol
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Nice idea. Curious to see the result !Awesome thread halliwax. I’m contemplating airbrushing these stencils at a low psi in hopes of capturing more surface detail and gaining more control of the paint. If anybody else here airbrushed, can someone recommend some good paints for this hilt?
I have the same airbrush, along with a single action Pasche. I use the Iwata Neo the most. It's a great budget airbrush.interesting... I’ve been using neo iwata with impressive results. It’s beern great on chassis work and small bits that need even and detailed coverage.