Spray Paint Question

Jimmer

Jimmer

Well-Known Member
I've never used spray paint on a model til last night (Testors Enamel metallic silver) and put it in hot water for 3 minutes (not boiling but hot) and upon removing it I noticed the bottom of spray can had ballooned out, to the point that the can now "rocks" on it's outward concave bottom.

Did I get water too hot? Did I avoid a near miss exploding can, and if so, is the can safe to use? Thanks. (I'm obviously a rookie/idiot...lol).
 
Water was too hot. Use lukewarm water, and shake well.

I would imagine it is still perfectly useable.
 
I always use the warm water trick if spray paint has been in my basement. It's a little cool down there, and it takes longer to mix, and it doesn't seem to atomize as well if it is cold or cool.
Leave it in a little warm water for a few minutes, shake it up, and fire away.

Jimmer, I don't think you would have wound up covered in paint. However, that would have been fun to try to explain that to your spouse had it happened....
 
astroboy said:
why are you putting it in hot water? Is this a trick?
Click to expand...
To expand a bit on Jkirkon's response, soaking the spray can in hot water reduces the paint's viscosity (i.e., makes it not so thick), so the paint flows from the can easier and lays down smoother on the surface of whatever you're painting. I learned of this "trick" years ago, and have used it ever since for paints and primers.

"Warm" to "hot" tap water does the job nicely (no need for extremes), and if you don't think you'll use the entire can you can place it in a plastic bag before soaking it in the hot water so the can won't rust prematurely. Let it soak for 5-10 minutes, shake well, then spray away. And, of course, several light coats are always better than one or two heavy coats; just remember to soak the can each time.
 
Zombie_61 said:
To expand a bit on Jkirkon's response, soaking the spray can in hot water reduces the paint's viscosity (i.e., makes it not so thick), so the paint flows from the can easier and lays down smoother on the surface of whatever you're painting. I learned of this "trick" years ago, and have used it ever since for paints and primers.

"Warm" to "hot" tap water does the job nicely (no need for extremes), and if you don't think you'll use the entire can you can place it in a plastic bag before soaking it in the hot water so the can won't rust prematurely. Let it soak for 5-10 minutes, shake well, then spray away. And, of course, several light coats are always better than one or two heavy coats; just remember to soak the can each time.
Click to expand...

This exactly. I never thought of th plastic bag trick, thanks for that, Zombie.
 
Spray cans usually have a temperature range on the label which states the ideal conditions. No need to exceed the maximum listed temp, there's no benefit.
 
No need to put in warm water unless can was left in a very cold place and even then.

I use spray cans on a regular basis, I prefer heavier coats holding can approx 4" away which IMHO gives a much smoother finish and not as dusty /foggy look as the several light coats 8" away, proof was when I painted my aluminum Captain America aluminum shield using duplicolor anodized red and blue spary paints, did all kind of tests and the best result was how I described it which applied with any regular paints.

GFollano
 
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ZeroSum said:
Spray cans usually have a temperature range on the label which states the ideal conditions. No need to exceed the maximum listed temp, there's no benefit.
Click to expand...
Yes, but the temperature range stated on the label pertains to the ambient temperature while you're spraying, not the temperature of the paint itself which is not necessarily the same. I've seen myself that warming the paint (regardless of method) before spraying does indeed result in a better, smoother finish. Providing, of course, that your spraying technique is sound.

GF said:
I use spray cans on a regular basis, I prefer heavier coats holding can approx 4" away which IMHO gives a much smoother finish and not as dusty /foggy look as the several light coats 8" away, proof was when I painted my aluminum Captain America aluminum shield using duplicolor anodized red and blue spary paints, did all kind of tests and the best result was how I described it which applied with any regular paints.

GFollano
Click to expand...
Your method might work on larger props, but when you're dealing with smaller scale models heavy paint coats can often obscure fine surface details and/or run (i.e. drip) before the paint cures. Realistically, anyone who uses spray paints often enough will usually develop whichever technique works best for them and the project(s) they're working on, but it can't hurt to learn various techniques using surplus/scrap materials to practice on.
 
Where in the instructions on the can does it say to 'heat the can'....??

Trying to heat the can is a lazy way to attempt to atomise the contents.

The ball inside the can is designed to mix the air and paint. Heat mostly taints the paint, especially enamel.

The fact that people believe that heating the can reactivates the contents or cheats the fact the nozzle is toast.....is stupid.

It's called google...check it out;)
 
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Zombie_61 said:
Yes, but the temperature range stated on the label pertains to the ambient temperature while you're spraying, not the temperature of the paint itself which is not necessarily the same. I've seen myself that warming the paint (regardless of method) before spraying does indeed result in a better, smoother finish. Providing, of course, that your spraying technique is sound.

Your method might work on larger props, but when you're dealing with smaller scale models heavy paint coats can often obscure fine surface details and/or run (i.e. drip) before the paint cures. Realistically, anyone who uses spray paints often enough will usually develop whichever technique works best for them and the project(s) they're working on, but it can't hurt to learn various techniques using surplus/scrap materials to practice on.
Click to expand...

Sorry I wasn't specific, Yes I was actually reffering when painting larger items, for small models I use airbrush.
 
yaris said:
Where in the instructions on the can does it say to 'heat the can'....??

Trying to heat the can is a lazy way to attempt to atomise the contents.

The ball inside the can is designed to mix the air and paint. Heat mostly taints the paint, especially enamel.

The fact that people believe that heating the can reactivates the contents or cheats the fact the nozzle is toast.....is stupid.

It's called google...check it out;)
Click to expand...
You can argue the point as much as you like. But I know from personal experience that I get better results when I heat the spray can a little before painting. Also, I use enamel paints almost exclusively, and I've never had a problem. I'm not trying to convince anyone that it's right or wrong, I'm merely sharing a tip that someone might find helpful.
 
Thanks for all the info, guys.

Astroboy, I've been offline for about a day but these guys gave you far more in depth explanations than I could.

Yaris, this was first time I used spray paint (on a model) so figured heating the paint couldn't hurt. However, had I used slightly hotter water I now see it could certainly have hurt had I blown the can up...:$.

Zombie-61, I did practice on a junk model before hitting my X-Wing. I applied 3 light mist coats before final coat. First mist very light, next 2 a bit heavier. Waited 15 minutes between mists then waited an hour before final coat. Didn't get any paint run and all details/lines came through with no clumping or loss of detail.

I realize it's not rocket science but I did watch a vid tutorial and read a bit rather than just jumping in.

Anyway, I spray painted the 4 engines on an X-Wing and was so happy with the result I guess I'm gonna make the jump to an airbrush. I love not having to battle brush marks. Of course brushes will always have their benefit in detailing, but I now see the huge benefit spraying can have on larger surface areas. Gonna do some research, but I assume double action is best way to go. (Maybe not for a beginner, will do some reading).

Thanks again, guys.
 
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Zombie_61 said:
You can argue the point as much as you like. But I know from personal experience that I get better results when I heat the spray can a little before painting. Also, I use enamel paints almost exclusively, and I've never had a problem. I'm not trying to convince anyone that it's right or wrong, I'm merely sharing a tip that someone might find helpful.
Click to expand...

Agree. I have always gotten better results from enamel spray cans when I warmed them a bit by sitting them for a while in a sink of warm water, occasionally shaking the can to uniformly warm the paint. Not sure where I first came across that tip, but it has worked well for years.
 
Jimmer said:
...I guess I'm gonna make the jump to an airbrush...Gonna do some research, but I assume double action is best way to go. (Maybe not for a beginner, will do some reading)...
Click to expand...
Just a friendly warning--if you ask 20 airbrush users which airbrush is best, you'll probably get 20 different answers; I've seen it happen over on Hobby Talk a number of times over the years. It seems like a simple question, but there are apparently too many options to choose from and every modeler has his/her own preferences.
 
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