What is the best way to fix lots of little air bubbles?

neoprime

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I picked up this dedication plaque a few days ago in the junkyard. After I had some time to really take a look, I discovered quite a few bubbles all over the piece. Does anyone have a method for taking care of the bubbles?

In the pictures, the piece has been washed and then primed to see the little bubbles better.

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From the looks of it, I'd think you'd have to go in there and fill in the bubbles/holes with super glue and ZAP GAP.If the holes aren't too big, a good primer will fill in to an extent, but basically, super glue would be my "first choice" and sanding things flush and back to shape followed by a good primer. The flat surfaces you can use a filler, but super glue is faster I think?
 
I thought the same thing, but I'm apprehensive since I may ruin the lettering when I start sanding. The lettering is pretty small, the Gene Roddenberry is only a little bit bigger than an 1/8".
 
At that size, maybe putty would work. Smooth it off with your finger before it sets, you should be able to do it without sanding.
 
the larger holes i'd use something like bondo to fill...just get most of it trimmed flush before it cures...then a primer designed specifically for vehicles....rustoleum makes a primer designed to fill in scratches and imperfections in a base coat before applying the final coats
 
I'm no expert here, so this is a completely uneducated thought, but why not make a mold from it? You could then work on the bubbles in the cast?? That way you won't ruin the original if you get it wrong

(before anyone jumps on me; I'm not advocating recasting as alot of people get upset about it, but as you own this piece and you're not planning on selling them, I think it's a fair idea)
 
You can also use Bondo glazing putty. While I can't see the pics (damn work filter...), if they are pinholes, I've had good success w/ using a little acetone (nail polish remover) to "melt" the glazing putty into the holes. I use a small spatula to spread the putty over the bubbles, and then dip a Q-tip into the acetone and work it over the top of the putty. Wait until dry, then lightly sand. Works like a charm!
 
Id go with magisculpt, two part Epoxy that you thin/smooth out with water.
Itll give you a ton of time to smooth it in wet with a finger, and itll need next to zero sanding when your done.
Be tedious, but it will work wonders.

lee
 
It may sound unorthodox but I've previously used some 'No sanding' filler from a DIY store for really small holes like this. Once painted, you can't tell the difference.
 
1. Primer (already done)
2. CA glue applied from a bottle with a needle applicator in each major hole. Let dry.
3. Epoxy putty (magic sculpt, Tamiya, Milliput or other) for the difficult holes. Add each blot perfectly dry. Use water only for the really fine sculpting.
4. Spot putty for the simple holes.

The CA glue acts as an "anchor" for the putty in those difficult holes. A bubble has a slick surface and the blot of putty might not stick very well without it.
Use water to smoothen the surface only after you have laid down all the epoxy putty. Try to prevent water to get in-between putty and the surface. Epoxy putty takes several hours to cure, so there is no rush.
I often use a fine knife or screwdriver as spatula.

I can also see that there is a lot of dust below the primer, that may have been on the surface when you painted it, or maybe even in the original mold. I would try to sand that down with superfine sandpaper glued to a small stick or something.
 
I echo the Bondo glazing and spot putty. That stuff wetsands really easy. I would apply some and then wipe off the excess and let it dry and then do it again. This way there will be very little to sand off. No matter what you use it's going to be a pain.
 
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