What color was used as base color for MR Falcon?
- Thread starter Nils
- Start date
Nils
Sr Member
MonsieurTox
Master Member
I think you do not get any reply because this has been answered several times and the answer can be found in several threads here. 
I was painted a 50-50 white-grime mix. However I think only the paint master was painted this way and that the color was matched by the factory who painted them.
I was painted a 50-50 white-grime mix. However I think only the paint master was painted this way and that the color was matched by the factory who painted them.
Nils
Sr Member
I think you do not get any reply because this has been answered several times and the answer can be found in several threads here.
I was painted a 50-50 white-grime mix. However I think only the paint master was painted this way and that the color was matched by the factory who painted them.
Yeah, i know the 50-50 ratio of the reefer white-grime mix, but I figured someone must know the exact color MR used, I guess I was wrong..
Anyway, I will go for the Model Master Camouflage Grey. I think I will like it, and that's what matter!:lol
MonsieurTox
Master Member
They probably used their own custom mix and not an off the shelf paint.
Are you looking for a spray can option or airbrush.
IMO Camo grey MMaster is wayyy to grey for the Falcon
If it's a spray can your after I would go with Tamiya Insignia white and get it to the greyish tone you want with a filter. Not a heavy oilwash type thing but a light filter, more Oder less MS than color in the mix.
IMO Camo grey MMaster is wayyy to grey for the Falcon
If it's a spray can your after I would go with Tamiya Insignia white and get it to the greyish tone you want with a filter. Not a heavy oilwash type thing but a light filter, more Oder less MS than color in the mix.
Are you using Tamiya Acrylics or Enamels?
The Insignia white + filters was really only a suggestion if you were trying to stick to spray can only.
If you are airbrushing i would start with white and make your way to the grey side a bit with tan and if your using Tamiya, I like a little German Grey added a little bit to the white to get it darker, it's less dramatic than adding straight flat black or something.
The Insignia white + filters was really only a suggestion if you were trying to stick to spray can only.
If you are airbrushing i would start with white and make your way to the grey side a bit with tan and if your using Tamiya, I like a little German Grey added a little bit to the white to get it darker, it's less dramatic than adding straight flat black or something.
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prop-fighter
Well-Known Member
Hi Nils!
you can try tamiya flat white 10 parts with tamiya Xf 55 - 1 part ,it's the same as insigna spray.
Now if you want a deeper shade you can add one or two shares of 55 xf it should be closer to the color of the Master replica falcon;
Michel.
you can try tamiya flat white 10 parts with tamiya Xf 55 - 1 part ,it's the same as insigna spray.
Now if you want a deeper shade you can add one or two shares of 55 xf it should be closer to the color of the Master replica falcon;
Michel.
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CAPTAINCOX
Sr Member
In my case I repainted my Hasbro Falcon 3 times until I was Happy, I don't have any other reference then pics and books and of course the films. Prob is that they all look sort a different depending light and what have you. I ended up using Tamiya Flatt White and made a Filter based on German Ocre Abteilung Oil paint heavily diluted with Terpenoid to get that worn warm white look. In the end it was what looked "right" to me .
Will go to Star Wars Identities in May and have a really close look at the 32" Model, I am wondering if I am in for a surprise regarding g the color
.Will go to Star Wars Identities in May and have a really close look at the 32" Model, I am wondering if I am in for a surprise regarding g the color
Nils
Sr Member
I'm trying to find a good color for my Hasbro Falcon and as I recall from when I had the MR version, it was quite spot on.
Ps, thanks for attending my English lesson..:lol I'm sorry, but my english sucks..
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rbeach84
Sr Member
Firstly, Nils, I think your command of English far exceeds my command of Swedish! ;^) Consider, for example, your correct use of the idiom "spot-on"!
Back on topic, since delving into this MillFalcon hot-bed of knowledge (also for my Hasbro model) and finding the various image archives online, I have found it fascinating just how layered the finish was on the 5-footer. I've seen at least three different basic color layers: a blackish primer (I'm assuming since it seems to be underneath all the missing parts), a yellow coat visible in so many chipped places under the top layer, a grey or white paint 'base' color. Then there is the applied dark grey, yellow & red panels, the spattered weathering, the physical abrasion weathering, "smoke" effects, some dark washes... so many different effects.
Always at issue is what are the specific "conditions" you will depict on your model: the "on film" version (and which one will you have today? Special Edition? Blu-Ray?), the one apparent from the actual miniature (good color reference being taken by flash illuminated pictures, assuming your computer monitor is presenting a fairly true color representation... ha!) or just the one you might think looks best. See what I mean? It is completely subjective, at least to the point that it probably should be some shade of light grey or white, suitably weathered. Unless we have access to the actual paint specification used by ILM, which I don't believe anyone has, you must simply decide what looks best. If you want to be cautious, do some experiments with different colors on a test "board" (cheap styrene plastic signs are a good source...) and at least quantify your methodology. You could then also use it for testing weathering techniques as well as testing the color schema under your planned display lighting. It would also make an interesting exercise to share here on RPF if you'd like. In the end, I suspect you will be happy with the results if you put in the effort.
Remember, no tech order exists for the MF, no matter what the Haynes folks say!
Regards, Robert
Back on topic, since delving into this MillFalcon hot-bed of knowledge (also for my Hasbro model) and finding the various image archives online, I have found it fascinating just how layered the finish was on the 5-footer. I've seen at least three different basic color layers: a blackish primer (I'm assuming since it seems to be underneath all the missing parts), a yellow coat visible in so many chipped places under the top layer, a grey or white paint 'base' color. Then there is the applied dark grey, yellow & red panels, the spattered weathering, the physical abrasion weathering, "smoke" effects, some dark washes... so many different effects.
Always at issue is what are the specific "conditions" you will depict on your model: the "on film" version (and which one will you have today? Special Edition? Blu-Ray?), the one apparent from the actual miniature (good color reference being taken by flash illuminated pictures, assuming your computer monitor is presenting a fairly true color representation... ha!) or just the one you might think looks best. See what I mean? It is completely subjective, at least to the point that it probably should be some shade of light grey or white, suitably weathered. Unless we have access to the actual paint specification used by ILM, which I don't believe anyone has, you must simply decide what looks best. If you want to be cautious, do some experiments with different colors on a test "board" (cheap styrene plastic signs are a good source...) and at least quantify your methodology. You could then also use it for testing weathering techniques as well as testing the color schema under your planned display lighting. It would also make an interesting exercise to share here on RPF if you'd like. In the end, I suspect you will be happy with the results if you put in the effort.
Remember, no tech order exists for the MF, no matter what the Haynes folks say!
Regards, Robert
Nils
Sr Member
Haynes, I had one of those for my Volvo.. (As I said, I'm from Sweden)
Thanks for the kind words, Robert!
You are very correct, so many different aspects, so many ways. I guess I should just do some old fashioned trial and error.
I'm very thankful for all your help, from you Robert as well as from everybody here on the RPF.
I shall come back with the end result!! Untill then, have a really good one!
Cheers.:thumbsup
)Thanks for the kind words, Robert!
You are very correct, so many different aspects, so many ways. I guess I should just do some old fashioned trial and error.
I'm very thankful for all your help, from you Robert as well as from everybody here on the RPF.
I shall come back with the end result!! Untill then, have a really good one!
Cheers.:thumbsup
