Unlimited Run Vintage and Romans Graflex Blade holder

[The Ninja]

View attachment 661948

The one downside is how the light comes through between the two pieces as they are not fixed together, as I understand it this is to install the electronics completely outside the saber and just slide it in, also to allow a full crystal core reveal. It's very possible that I've done something wrong or am not aware of a method to firmly close this gap tho, so I'll update if that changes

If this light bleeding is a common issue, I think it would help all, if SH or one of the designers provide instructions or practical solution regarding the light bleeding, thanks...

 

[ObiShane]

Just to quickly add to my review:

Here are 3 genuine vintage Graflex 3-cells:

View attachment 661947

One of them has the SH blade holder in. Can anybody tell which one?

The blade holder is now installed into my screen accurate ESB (with Tri Cree XP E2 and Crystal Focus v8 board) and somehow even makes the 7/8ths blades feel less whippy. I suspect because of the really tight tolerances and solid engineering holding the blade securely.

View attachment 661948

The one downside is how the light comes through between the two pieces as they are not fixed together, as I understand it this is to install the electronics completely outside the saber and just slide it in, also to allow a full crystal core reveal. It's very possible that I've done something wrong or am not aware of a method to firmly close this gap tho, so I'll update if that changes

If this light bleeding is a common issue, I think it would help all, if SH or one of the designers provide instructions or practical solution regarding the light bleeding, thanks...

Hey guys, one of the designers here. I really need to be spending much more time than I currently do on theRPF. Lately our saber forums and facebook groups alone have been crushing our free time.

What I did notice was that your bottom half is held in place by a Graflex button and not the Glass eye, this is why your gap is larger than it should be. Out of the box it's designed to work with the Glass eye only. The glass eye's non threaded portion that sticks furthest into the bottom half, pulls the two halves together as you screw and lock the eye into place. If you wanted to eliminate the light bleed, lining the top or bottom (or both) seams with a very thin adhesive black felt should do the trick. OR what I had originally considered to probably be the best solution was a proprietary blade that does not allow light diffusion below the emitter. One could still leave a small section of the blade untouched to allow for an illuminated glass eye, should they wish.

We had wanted to create a lip design where the two pieces joined, however the metal was just so thin on the brass pocket section we thought it best not to. Painting the bottom section of the blade would be a simple and easy way to work around the gap diffusion, and is probably what I would recommend to most people.

Now for the ESB guys, we will be coming out with a smaller piece that will be inserted into the bottom section and allow it to be locked into place with a red button. Please bear with us on that, some of us have been on summer vacation and are catching up quickly as we can.

Thank you everyone for jumping on the run, it means a lot.

 

[tomleech]

What I did notice was that your bottom half is held in place by a Graflex button and not the Glass eye, this is why your gap is larger than it should be. Out of the box it's designed to work with the Glass eye only. The glass eye's non threaded portion that sticks furthest into the bottom half, pulls the two halves together as you screw and lock the eye into place.

That's what I thought might be happening, except:



I think, with mine at least, that the issue is the top piece isn't held down at the back and lifts very slightly, causing the gap. The red button also pulls the bottom part up like the glass eye should.



I may experiment with 3M black weatherstrip adhesive to hold the top part down at the back and/or hold the two parts together as long as I can make sure they will come apart again That's what I've used for the grips on my ANH and they are holding much better than JB Weld or Gorilla epoxy did on my ESB.

 

[Jedioz]

Just got mine, I see the minor issue with the shine through , no biggy, could I get an idea for the led set up lens etc off anyone ,as the one normally used may not work.:thumbsup

 

[ObiShane]

That's what I thought might be happening, except:

View attachment 662259

I think, with mine at least, that the issue is the top piece isn't held down at the back and lifts very slightly, causing the gap. The red button also pulls the bottom part up like the glass eye should.

View attachment 662260

I may experiment with 3M black weatherstrip adhesive to hold the top part down at the back and/or hold the two parts together as long as I can make sure they will come apart again That's what I've used for the grips on my ANH and they are holding much better than JB Weld or Gorilla epoxy did on my ESB.

But it does look much better than it did with the red button. Now, when I was testing the prototype I was also getting this same result, which I found out was because of the slant of the surface were the retention screw is located above the eye. The lift is due to the top piece being pulled flush to the inside of the flash, which isn't square to the flash tube itself. During the manufacturing process of the flashes when pressing down the metal surface of the eye section it also caused the tube to squish ever so slightly. You can notice it if you look closely at your second pic, even more so if you rotate it moving the red button away from the camera just a little bit more. What I did on the prototype was to seat it with a little more force then just my hands. A piece of polycarbonate tube and a rubber hammer tapping gently from the top, helped seat it a little better. Tap it down only on the rear, since the front's depth sits good.

Would you guys like me to make a video?

Here is a quick pic explaining what I mean ( thanks for the quick snap ARKM) , Now this is a PARKS REPRO V1 ( Not 2.0), but it's the same as on a vintage. I can post pics of that if you guys wish as well, but right now this very minute I'm unable to grab them but wanted to show you guys in a pic what I mean. You can see the dip caused by the pressing process of the Glass eye formation. Also, the slant of the section that the top half of the blade adapter rests under. The screw pulls it flush to the inside wall when tightened, causing your lift.

Click to zoom

 

[jamiemp]

Is there a chassis for this yet? Or you guys just recommend using TCSS chassis discs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cjchiu]

Pretty sure Goth is working on one

 

[Darth Ryo]

Is there a chassis for this yet? Or you guys just recommend using TCSS chassis discs?

Yep, working on it, already 2 chassis have been created and are available.
Check the 3rd post of this same thread:
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=262871&p=4012439&viewfull=1#post4012439

all details are published there

 

[Kreyhn]

I just got my Roman's replica in the mail today, and it makes my heart sing. I love what you have done with this blade holder and I am planning on getting one for the replica, but...

With the newfound misalignment of the sync pin cutouts when the SH blade holder is in a new Roman's, are you planning to make an alternate version for compatability?

 

[ObiShane]

I just got my Roman's replica in the mail today, and it makes my heart sing. I love what you have done with this blade holder and I am planning on getting one for the replica, but...

With the newfound misalignment of the sync pin cutouts when the SH blade holder is in a new Roman's, are you planning to make an alternate version for compatability?

No, we are not. However Roman's has informed me that he is doing his own run and will offer those up at a very reasonable cost, he coined the term "dirt cheap" when we spoke.

 

[Kreyhn]

No, we are not. However Roman's has informed me that he is doing his own run and will offer those up at a very reasonable cost, he coined the term "dirt cheap" when we spoke.

Works for me. Cheers!