Vader ESB/Jedi Bladed Stunt
- Thread starter thd9791
- Start date
Okay so, folks it does seem like there are wires in the ports of this stunt hilt, right?
It also looks like it’s a silver sidebar clamp.
Anyway, I decided to grab a Heiland (and I had a parks shroud)
so this build can be on camera equipment. This is my current theory on the internals, but I have some problems.
1) I chose this so you can have holes to place wires. Without this, there’s a solid silver wall behind the ports and I guess you’d drill holes for the wires? Something tells me that’s too involved
2) on the graflex there are M3 bolts for the upper core. Where are the bolts for the upper core? Are the slotted dome head screws for the MPP enough?
3) Still hunting for the black bolts on the lower.
4) I don’t see the obvious MPP lever on this hilt either!
It also looks like it’s a silver sidebar clamp.
Anyway, I decided to grab a Heiland (and I had a parks shroud)
1) I chose this so you can have holes to place wires. Without this, there’s a solid silver wall behind the ports and I guess you’d drill holes for the wires? Something tells me that’s too involved
2) on the graflex there are M3 bolts for the upper core. Where are the bolts for the upper core? Are the slotted dome head screws for the MPP enough?
3) Still hunting for the black bolts on the lower.
4) I don’t see the obvious MPP lever on this hilt either!
I hope it’s okay to say Corellianexports worked his magic for me. Okay it wasn’t magic, it was an experienced machinist facing, trimming and boring these cores. He even countersunk the facing hole.
I had trouble with this one because, if I’m right, two cores are aligned within the handle. Not a little disc of aluminum like the LV saber …. But two whole chunks of aluminum. I really struggle lining things up in my harbor freight drill press so the longer the distance… the more things can go wrong.
They snugly fit enough to create a little vacuum, but easily slide around. I’m so, so happy.
Anyway, with Romans endcap and shroud, this Heiland tube is looking more and more like something Star Wars.
I’m told the sockets of MPPs and Heilands are comparable. If there are wires in the stunt… I’m guessing this is how they did it, instead of drilling holes in the core.
Borrowing the blade from my barbican for a second, this is what I’ve been seeing
The upper core must extend above the tube to be seen so prominent in the shroud
I had trouble with this one because, if I’m right, two cores are aligned within the handle. Not a little disc of aluminum like the LV saber …. But two whole chunks of aluminum. I really struggle lining things up in my harbor freight drill press so the longer the distance… the more things can go wrong.
They snugly fit enough to create a little vacuum, but easily slide around. I’m so, so happy.
Anyway, with Romans endcap and shroud, this Heiland tube is looking more and more like something Star Wars.
I’m told the sockets of MPPs and Heilands are comparable. If there are wires in the stunt… I’m guessing this is how they did it, instead of drilling holes in the core.
Borrowing the blade from my barbican for a second, this is what I’ve been seeing
The upper core must extend above the tube to be seen so prominent in the shroud
I forgot to credit you earlier, sorry!
Dann did my other ones that look so clean, I ended up using it for my final pipe stunt.
For this, I went with the first person I knew who replied to that wtb thread because life gets busy and I didn’t want to inconvience anyone who didn’t have time, so I just did a wide message generally
So, we still don’t know where the bolts are. I’m beginning to think they used the MPP dome headed screws for the upper core.
Anyway, I did the Wannawanga thing and ran some extra Graflex socket screws through the Heiland socket pieces and into the lower core. I made pockets in the base of the upper for the screw heads.
I ran two, slightly clocked, M5 grub screws through the cores to pinch a tang. Threaded rod temporarily in place.
The socket pieces and the cores didn’t quite line up, I ended up boring out the center of the socket pieces and tapping an aluminum tube in there.
It slides in though! I have seen the core in this position, this is my interpretation
Anyway, I did the Wannawanga thing and ran some extra Graflex socket screws through the Heiland socket pieces and into the lower core. I made pockets in the base of the upper for the screw heads.
I ran two, slightly clocked, M5 grub screws through the cores to pinch a tang. Threaded rod temporarily in place.
The socket pieces and the cores didn’t quite line up, I ended up boring out the center of the socket pieces and tapping an aluminum tube in there.
It slides in though! I have seen the core in this position, this is my interpretation
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Thanks! I put one of my ESB blades on it and I can say that the MPP stunt center of balance is right on the shoulder of the shroud
This is without a clamp and bolts, and I technically guessed the length of the rear core, but the difference in extra aluminum might be minimal, I don’t know what the old blades weighed either
Generally I thought this was a cool tidbit
This is without a clamp and bolts, and I technically guessed the length of the rear core, but the difference in extra aluminum might be minimal, I don’t know what the old blades weighed either
Generally I thought this was a cool tidbit
Small update, I used a Roman Props bulb release and bought M2.5 screws and an M2.5 tap. I have 2 little bottles of random tiny drill bits so I used my calipers to find one close to 1.75mm (it was 1.8 but who’s checking)
With some cutting oil I safely tapped the 4 holes with a Dewalt Drill. They’re not domed like the original MPP side screws but they’re the most reasonable I could find.
I made my own blade for it too, now that I’m making blades and selling them in an Etsy store I had the materials. It seems this blade is closest to the Obi Wan ANH, smaller at the base and rather thin. It’s longer though… based on public and private reference.
So I made a close enough version paying high attention to certain aspects that will make it accurate in fabrication:
getting the cores and screws lined up, making the collar half or 1/3 the size of the face of the core,
getting the blade to only hide a certain about or the shroud which gives me an accurate thickness down there…
Blade length and taper
Getting the sockets to line up so I can stick wires in there eventually!!!
I did lathe a little step in the tang with the coarse edge of a metal file. These always end up a little curvy and I don’t know why.. only in steel
Now this is without the black bolts, I’m still not sure where they are. I can’t seem to find any in the upper core. Maybe if 4/40 and M3 were good enough for the graflex upper core, M2.5 were good enough here…
Though I will say I did add two M5 grub screws to keep the tang in. It’s the only way I can think that would force them to hacksaw off a blade tang in the DV6
With some cutting oil I safely tapped the 4 holes with a Dewalt Drill. They’re not domed like the original MPP side screws but they’re the most reasonable I could find.
I made my own blade for it too, now that I’m making blades and selling them in an Etsy store I had the materials. It seems this blade is closest to the Obi Wan ANH, smaller at the base and rather thin. It’s longer though… based on public and private reference.
So I made a close enough version paying high attention to certain aspects that will make it accurate in fabrication:
getting the cores and screws lined up, making the collar half or 1/3 the size of the face of the core,
getting the blade to only hide a certain about or the shroud which gives me an accurate thickness down there…
Blade length and taper
Getting the sockets to line up so I can stick wires in there eventually!!!
I did lathe a little step in the tang with the coarse edge of a metal file. These always end up a little curvy and I don’t know why.. only in steel
Now this is without the black bolts, I’m still not sure where they are. I can’t seem to find any in the upper core. Maybe if 4/40 and M3 were good enough for the graflex upper core, M2.5 were good enough here…
Though I will say I did add two M5 grub screws to keep the tang in. It’s the only way I can think that would force them to hacksaw off a blade tang in the DV6
Attachments
Thank you! I also forgot to add todays small project… a new D ring. Stole this from a pink and green little D ring belt from the thrift store.
Truthfully I recognize the rounded shape of these special D rings they seemed to have used in Star Wars. I think I found some plated ones… more to come when they ship
Click for larger
Thank you! I believe this d ring to be accurate to the Vader bladed one… is that a real MPP? It’s gorgeous. I have a clamp coming from TCSS and I hope it looks as good lolThat looks a lot like my D-ring, eventhough I had to open mine up slightly to get that rounded shape ... well done thd9791
View attachment 1657757
Nice work on those stunt blades too ... beautiful!
Chaïm
hey Tom,
I'm interested in seing photos of the clamp when you receive it! i'm still struggling with the clamps for my Barbican run! the issue with TCSS of course being that the side bars are not the proper color...
cheers
The TCSS clamps are really nice. Here are a couple shots next to some vintages; TCSS on the left/bare flash, the other two are vintage.
The biggest “tell” is a sharp angle on the flat side the bars rest against
The biggest “tell” is a sharp angle on the flat side the bars rest against
Absolutely sir eethan they have been raw metal sidebars as far as I remember, maybe I’ll polish them?
Sym-Cha yes! I pulled it from a spare MPP replica I had. His endcaps lately have a slightly smaller knurling ring. This one, with more knurling, came off the flash replica.
I wanted my tube to be a real flash, the cut outs (ports) just look different to me. I think it’s a Roman shroud too, lightly wrinkled or textured. I have another here that’s powder coated that I thought was a Parks, or I have that backwards
Sym-Cha yes! I pulled it from a spare MPP replica I had. His endcaps lately have a slightly smaller knurling ring. This one, with more knurling, came off the flash replica.
I wanted my tube to be a real flash, the cut outs (ports) just look different to me. I think it’s a Roman shroud too, lightly wrinkled or textured. I have another here that’s powder coated that I thought was a Parks, or I have that backwards
So, I got the TCSS clamp, and I didn’t realize the bars were chromed. They’re chromed over the raw machine finish, so you can see where the round stock was faced - I have definitely gotten raw aluminum bars before so this is a pleasant but unexpected change!
Anyway, with the clamp it looks pretty sweet, so I wanted to share while I hunt down more reference
Anyway, with the clamp it looks pretty sweet, so I wanted to share while I hunt down more reference
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