Hey everyone, I've been out of the hobby for a while and plan on getting back in. Anyhow, I have a few questions as I've forgotten a lot of stuff. What's the best way to thin acrylics for a vinyl kit? I know a lot of people like Future, but will it make the paint job shiny? I want the final product to be rather dull looking instead of vibrant, which leads me to the next question. What kind of sealer to use that won't leave a glossy finish? I'm doing the old Screamin' Freddy model and will be hand painting. Any advice would be much appreciated!
I've always used plain water for acrylics and have never had any issues with it. I've done it with all kinds of acrylics from cheap poster paints, to fine art paint, and everything in between and it's one of the reasons I like using acrylics for most everything I paint. The only time that water doesn't work well with acrylics is when using an airbrush, the paint has a tendency to come out with a heavy matte texture but for brush painting it works fine.
Ditto. I use water most of the time for acrylics and it works fine. I find that cheaper paints sometimes require using airbrush thinner instead to get decent coverage and minimal streaking.
For a matte finish, use a matte varnish. Depending on the size you can get a rattle can one from the hardware store, or if it's a small item with lots of detail I use vallejo matt varnish and brush it on.
It’s also depends on what paints you’re using. For example, I use Mr Hobby and Tamiya acrylics, as these are the cheapest available, but they are alcohol based and don’t mix well with water; you need alcohol based thinner to get a decent result. I use Mr Hobby Topcoat Matt (rattle can) as the final step, but Vallejo Matt Varnish from an airbrush also works well.
My go to thinner is Mr. Hobby Mr Leveling Thinner for acrylics. I've tried Tamiya X-20a but I don't care for it. For a top coat I've used Testor Model Master clear ACRYL Flat, it works but I'm not in love with it.
Thanks to everybody for the replies, really helps a lot!! When the time comes for washing, and I've mixed my colors up, is there a preferred product to use as a dispersant? I've heard of just water, windex, rubbing alcohol, etc.
Thanks to everybody for the replies, really helps a lot!! When the time comes for washing, and I've mixed my colors up, is there a preferred product to use as a dispersant? I've heard of just water, windex, rubbing alcohol, etc.
As mentioned earlier, the type of acrylic you use may require different thinners
Most craft and gaming miniature paints are simply water based and thin with water. But as Talaris mentioned, Tamiya needs alcohol or the tamiya thinner
The tube paints and stuff from places like Michael's and AC Moore etc... are cheap but may not have as fine pigments as paints made specifically for gaming miniatures/models
Personally, for hand painting with acrylics, I like Vallejo, Reaper and Privateer Press P3 paints.. Citadel/GW paints are ok, but they dry up in the pots really quick, sometimes before even opening them
Reaper paints have some really cool sets where they have a base, shade and highlight combo for colors
Also, if you want to extend drying time a bit, you can use an acrylic medium. Lets you blend a bit more and do translucent glazes much easier
Binder - the "glue" that holds everything together and becomes the actual film. In this case it's acrylic. Which is mostly PVA-C
Carrier - what everything is suspended in. In acrylics this is mostly water or alcohol depending on brand.
Pigment - pigment...
Additives - This can be anything from surfectants to perfume.
Thinning usually means adding a carrier (water/alcohol) and some additives. Here is the MSDS sheet recipe for Tamiya X-20
3-methyl-3-methoxy Butahanol 10%
Secondary Butanol 20%
Normal Propyl Alcohol 15%
Water 55%
Add too much carrier and you risk losing all adhesion as there is too little binder to form a connecting film. If you on the other hand add acrylic medium - it's like diluting the paint with pigment free paint - you don't lose adhesion. Buying some binder and premixing it with water, IPA and some dish liquid is a good way to dilute paints. It's not just thinner then. Future is mostly acrylic so it's the cheapest form of acrylic "medium" you can find as it already has some water and other additives in it for leveling and such. You are not wrong. You can add a drop or two matte varnish or medium to your future mix to make it matte.
As for hand painting vinyl I would say whatever colour you use, paint many layers as you won't get the coverage you want from one layer without making it look like a kindergarten finger painting; charming to whoever spawned the Artist
Also - which model is it? I have the 1/6 scale one sculpted by Kaiyodo using Screamin's license. Everything is great except for the claws on the small one.
Binder - the "glue" that holds everything together and becomes the actual film. In this case it's acrylic. Which is mostly PVA-C
Carrier - what everything is suspended in. In acrylics this is mostly water or alcohol depending on brand.
Pigment - pigment...
Additives - This can be anything from surfectants to perfume.
Thinning usually means adding a carrier (water/alcohol) and some additives. Here is the MSDS sheet recipe for Tamiya X-20
3-methyl-3-methoxy Butahanol 10%
Secondary Butanol 20%
Normal Propyl Alcohol 15%
Water 55%
Add too much carrier and you risk losing all adhesion as there is too little binder to form a connecting film. If you on the other hand add acrylic medium - it's like diluting the paint with pigment free paint - you don't lose adhesion. Buying some binder and premixing it with water, IPA and some dish liquid is a good way to dilute paints. It's not just thinner then. Future is mostly acrylic so it's the cheapest form of acrylic "medium" you can find as it already has some water and other additives in it for leveling and such. You are not wrong. You can add a drop or two matte varnish or medium to your future mix to make it matte.
As for hand painting vinyl I would say whatever colour you use, paint many layers as you won't get the coverage you want from one layer without making it look like a kindergarten finger painting; charming to whoever spawned the Artist
Also - which model is it? I have the 1/6 scale one sculpted by Kaiyodo using Screamin's license. Everything is great except for the claws on the small one.
Impressive! My old days of paint chemistry are long behind me.
Only thing I’ll add is something called surface energy.or proper surface prep.
Painting on something like vinyl is difficult via hand brushing as the vinyl is smooth and glossy, even oily (low surface energy). A rub down with isopropyl alcholhol can remove surface oils and etch the surface. I sometimes Pre-wash parts in warm water and a touch of dish soap and allow to thoroughly dry. Even a light sanding to scratch up the surface with a fine grit sandpaper can really etch the surface well. Again, keep the surface clean of your oily finger prints too.
Thanks to everyone for the advice! To "basementdweller" it's the 1/4 scale version. I've got it assembled, waiting on my putty and primer to arrive, and then I'll get started on the painting. On another note, I'm posting some pics of my Aliens facehugger I did a few years back to see if anyone can explain the cracking in the paint. I also did the Queen Chestburster which did the same thing. It's been a while so I'm trying to recall any details that might provide some insight. I primed, and waited a few days before painting. I used acrylics, I can't remember the brands. I feel like I diluted with water and Future. I waited a while before applying the gloss coat. Maybe too much paint or the humid Mississippi air? Any thoughts?
