The Playmates Tricorder Upgrade Page

thegreatgalling

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I thought it would be good to have a thread where people can post their progress pics of any playmates tricorder mods.

Here is the story with mine. I actually decided to mod the tricorder shortly after I came across one back in the day. Since I was in the seventh grade, I am glad I waited a decade to try it :lol A handful of years ago, I opened it up and with no knowledge of electronics, basically scratched my head a little bit, and just winged it.

I was able to keep the battery setup that comes with the tric intact. All I did was solder two new wires to the switch and the battery, and then wire five or so flashing LEDs to that. I needed to carve some room out (I used a hot Xacto knife to score some of the unneeded plastic inside to fit the new wires. I then heated the tip of a small skrewdriver (could have drilled it to be more precise, but I was in a hurry) to create holes in the front array of the tric to squeeze the LEDs through.

I also unsrewed and removed the belt clip, added some black tape to the bottom, and put some details on the front array to resemble the Mark VII more closely. I made that clear piece on the top left of the tricorder face out of a gluestick which I cut and beveled with a pipe cutter. I trimmed some gold oak tag I found for the small pieces. I also added a fake middle scanning bar graphically. Lastly, I painted the background of the front array black, the two ovals white, and the power square on the top right black.

I should mention that on the Mark VII, only the green lights on the top row of the front array "flash" (they are in an alternating blinking sequence) and the movement of the tric's lights is really the middle green scanning bar. The bottom grill and the the gold detail light as well.

Since I couldn't fit a scanning bar in the tric without massively reworking the guts, I just made the entire top row of the front array flash and left the bottom part with no lights. All in all, the LEDs are VERY bright and the flashing, in my opinion, more than makes up for the lack of the scanning bar.

Here is the tric:

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I could have repainted it, but I felt the color was close enough.

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Here are some comparison pics with my playmates tric next to a Myron built Mark VII (note the size difference):

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There is obviously no contest between the two as Myron's stuff is a perfectionist's dream. You might notice I temporarily added a new graphic to the screen:

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Here's the messy guts of the thing. It isn't pretty:

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Thanks for the kind words. It wasn't literally two weeks after I finished this that I came across Gerry Mros' guide to upgrading tricorders. DOH! :confused

I think even without the guidance, it came out ok.
 
Hahah! cool! It looks great. I have a med and a regular playmates I added details on, but I didn't add Leds. I've been working on a MK IX Voyager tricorder which has been annoying... the door... but its good to go now... except the sound got screwed up, but I had planned to do something different.
 
Hahah! cool! It looks great. I have a med and a regular playmates I added details on, but I didn't add Leds. I've been working on a MK IX Voyager tricorder which has been annoying... the door... but its good to go now... except the sound got screwed up, but I had planned to do something different.

I assume that's the tric with the tape on it in the other thread? What was the problem with the door?
 
Just joined rpf and there is some amazing work and props on here.
Got myself a tricorder years ago and its been stuck in the attic so ive decided to put a gmprops upgrade kit into it when it arrives.
I thought a few years ago when i got the tricorder that something more could have been done with it well thanks to gerry mros there is.
 
I guess now that I am doing another run of the electronics that someone should revive this thread and show the actual steps for installing the electronics. While a lot of it is in my instruction manual (available for free to anyone that asks) it would be nice to see photos from other members here on their experiences with upgrading this tricorder.

C'mon everyone... post your pics! :cool
 
While I don't have this anymore (actually, not sure who has it after it was lost in the mail!) but here are some pics of the one I built.

The electroincs were great and the instructions were awesome. The hardest part was cutting the plastic on the battery door and re-doing the new back panel. I suggest you have the right tools before starting this. Pick up some good super glue or a liquid plastic cement like Tamiya's Extra Thin. You will need a small (thin) razor saw and a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and a cutting bit are a Godsend. Finally you will need some putty to fill seams and some fine grit sandpaper. I didn't do any work in progress shots unfortunately but you can see the scope of the work in some of the pics. Plan what you are going to cut carefully and take your time. You will end up with a very nice replica.

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That looks great, Robiwan, blows mine away. I am really sorry to hear it got lost, that is terrible. :eek
 
nice work robiwan.
what type of battery have you got in the tricorder ive been looking for a rechargable one but not sure what would work.
Ive already started to prep mine for the electronic kit off gmprops never thought of taking pics and putting them on here though.
looking forward to seeing some new upgrades on here.
 
anyone wanting detailed videos on how to prepare and install an upgrade kit then they should head over to youtube, type in playmates tricorder and the is a member on there that has posted about 6 videos telling you how exactly he did his and shows you how to do yours, his name is erik814u2. hopefully he wont mind me pointing modders to his youtube page for this info.
 
Thanks guys. I had sold the Tric sometime last summer but it never showed up! Refunded the buyers money. More than likely some yahoo at the post office has a cool new toy. But I digress.

I had started out using two 3v "N" batteries, but then switched to a regular old 9v battery. Bits of bubble wrap inside kept the battery from bouncing around.
 
thanks for the battery info robiwon
i would have thought that a 9v battery mite have burnt out the delicate leds shows how wrong i was. :rolleyes :unsure
 
Cool! Sorry to hear it got lost... I've got the bigger medical tric stashed away somewhere - I'll have to dig it out and see what I can do with it.
 
Check with GMProps before you plug a 9v battery into it. I think he recomends a 6v power source. I do not want anyone to overpower theirs and burn them out. I had to put a new speaker in mine as I think it couldn't handle the extra voltage. The LEDs on the day it shipped were all working just fine though. I used a speaker I got from RadioShack. Sorry, don't remember the model number.

Oh and we need to get some action going in the Cricket thread too. Another great electronic board from GMProps and phaser from Stapleton!
 
Check with GMProps before you plug a 9v battery into it. I think he recommends a 6v power source. I do not want anyone to overpower theirs and burn them out. I had to put a new speaker in mine as I think it couldn't handle the extra voltage. The LEDs on the day it shipped were all working just fine though. I used a speaker I got from RadioShack. Sorry, don't remember the model number.

Oh and we need to get some action going in the Cricket thread too. Another great electronic board from GMProps and phaser from Stapleton!

I do not recommend a 9v battery since this will probably damage the sound module. A 6v battery is better. The battery system I like best is a rechargeable iPod Shuffle battery. It is about 4 volts but it has lots of power and will run for hours before it needs to be recharged.

Yes, let's get the Cricket phaser thread going again. One of my favorite props!
 
Is this tread still alive? I'm new to this kind of work and was hoping to get some advice/opinions.

I'm currently working on my playmates tricorder, getting it ready to install electronics from gmprops. I was wondering if anyone here has suggestions for lighting the ID and EMRG buttons? I stumbled across an interesting tutorial recently that gave me a few ideas.

Alex Kalcher > Star Trek > Requisiten > Tricorder

Halfway down the page it shows images of brass fittings being inserted into each center hinge and a brass rod to replace the hinge pin. For this guys mod he put the battery in the lower half of the tricorder and ran power to the main body through the hinges. Although I would personally want a more accessible battery, I'm thinking of using this method for lighting the ID button and, possibly, the EMRG button.

I was also wondering if anyone had any thoughts about fitting translucent colored acrylic pieces into the openings for the top sensor array rather than using decals. I'm wondering if this would be an effective way of achieving an effect similar to the stapleton tricorder -the next thing on my wish list... Maybe I'm over thinking this project??

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! :)
 
A shameless self-bump never hurt anyone... I'm sure some of you who posted here in the past came up with, or otherwise have, some brilliant ideas.
 
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