The Perfect Dark Lord Helmet

Darth Movado

Well-Known Member
Dear RPF,

As the mecca of all prop builders, costumers, and geeks everywhere, I was curious as to your thoughts about a project that I am starting with a couple of friends. Utilizing the Rubies Darth Vader helmet as a base model, (straightened and trimmed out off course), I was wanting to idealize a Vader helmet. I want to take the best aspects of the four movie helmets as well as fan made helmets and roll them into a Vader helmet that is nice looking, durable, and yes, comfortable to wear for costuming. I have had several ideas already like extending the dome around so that the "mask" actualy wears more like a helmet and utilizing foam inserts much like a baseball helmet or bicycle helmet might use. I also wanted to prewire in a fan in the dome mount for cooling purposes and aero vents on the back of the mask for cooling as well. Optical grade lenses, sharpening of edges, metal tusks, etc have also been thought of. No, I don't want to sell it. This is a private project for myself and two other friends who have a general love and fascination with the character and we have the skills to pull this off (well, they do, and I'm just latching on. :) ). So, if you have a moment, share with me your changes you would make to the helmet to make it better. I would greatly appreciate it and I will keep this forum apprised of our progress with digital photographic evidence.

Sincerely,

Darth Movado
 
If you are going to use it for costuming, then let me suggest that you use a hard-hat helmet liner instead of foam. You want as much air flow as possible. However, for a closed helmet, even that will not be enough without a fan inside.
If you will be using parts of the hard-hat for attaching its liner inside the Vader dome, make sure it was made of a glueable plastic such as ABS and not of HDPE, which is impossible to glue to anything. (I learned this recently, after having spent two hours cutting and fitting a cheap hard-hat into a helmet)
For some hard-hat liners, you can use back-adhesive velcro.. That is much better, and adjustable.
 
Here's one of my first helmets that I had modded for a better fit and airflow.



I had used pipe insulation, upholstery foam backed with wool felt to ensure a snug comfortable fit. I had also upgraded the lenses, mesh, etc.... Adjustable straps are a must as well....preferably the cam type.

With this set up, I never needed a fan. Mind you, I'd never worn it on an ultra-hot day.
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SaberFreak @ Feb 20 2007, 08:43 AM) [snapback]1422576[/snapback]</div>
The dome ridge is the first thing you need to sharpen on the Rubies helmet.
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We are utilizing a different dome all together and throwing out the Rubies dome. Probably going with with a DPDLX or a Ghosthost dome. Not sure just yet.

Movado
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Darth Movado @ Feb 24 2007, 10:45 PM) [snapback]1425598[/snapback]</div>
We are utilizing a different dome all together and throwing out the Rubies dome. Probably going with with a DPDLX or a Ghosthost dome. Not sure just yet.[/b]
Good call :thumbsup
 
TBH: I think it would be very difficult to make "THE perfect" helmet from a Supreme... but I'd be very interested to see how you'll pull it off. :thumbsup
 
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hitogiri @ Feb 26 2007, 03:32 AM) [snapback]1426777[/snapback]</div>
Nice KevVader. I always wondered how you guys stayed alive in those suits lol
[/b]

Thanks...yup, once you get suited up, it gets a tad toasty. ;)
 
I am very interested in how you will handle the nose/bridge and cheek area. Every "modded" Rubies mask I have ever seen, that is the least diserable area. You can correct the neck, the notches in the nose, the lense, but if you can pull off the areas I suggested above, that would make a world of difference.
 
The overall general plan (minus the gory details) is to reshape the Rubies helmet as much as possible to get it in as close to perfect form as possible. I think the Rubies helmet is just a pull of off the original Don Post molds anyway. It looks aweful similar to mine in that respect. Once back into shape, we will fill in the nose ridges, chin vent, eyes, and remove the dome connector at the top. A cast will be made using a silicon trash mold. This cast will be the working copy to build up. We are planning to utilize either fiberglass resin or a new compound known as ShellShock through Smooth-On. The material is very nice and allows itself to be worked easily. It also doesn't have the hazardous drawbacks of fiberglass. When the new cast is pulled, we will sculpt on a cooling vent system on the back of the helmet to give it more of a "helmet" appearance much like the Celtic Touch 20th Century helmet located on www.starwarshelmets.com. This will allow the helmet to actually be a helmet and not a mask and will require less strapping on the back as the helmet will actually sit on the head and not have to be strapped to the back of the head. The cooling vents will be sculpted in as tear drop shaped openings that extend around the back of the cranium to a parallel line with the ear. I guess one could think of it kind of like a bicycle helmet type fitting. In fact, the original plan was to utilize a baseball or bicycle style helmet and attach it to the cast, but the sculptor/animator I'm working with suggested that it be custom sculpted as it would lend to smoother lines. Schiematics have a fan installed in the mouth vent as well as a the new dome fitting. This will draw up and out through the helmet cooling the wearer by circulating are under the dome. Optical grade lenses are being pursued to allow for the best possible vision while wearing the helmet. I'm hoping to utilize the newer polycarbinate stuff that has a slight reflection on it (much like the light tint sunglasses have). Tear ducts, nose ridges, and chin triangle will all be custom cut into the finished cast. The dome will be done in a similar way with molding and casting; however, we plan to cast both the outside and inside of the dome much like they did for the Vader helmet in Episode III. When that is complete, we'll pull a master mold and in turn, master cast from this utilizing a platinum silicone mold compound and a resin material (again, maybe fiberglass resin, ShellShock, or something else), but in any case, something that is both durable and easy to wear (weight wise). An ambitious project to say the least, but something that is feasible. I'll be posting pictures of the process for those who wish to try their hand at it. I'm now the proud new owner of a Portumac Reveal Helmet, so that could lend itself to some inspiration as well. Hope this hasn't been too boring.

Movado
 
Work fast with the Shellshock, it only has a 2 minute pot life. It sets up FAST. Dont play around LOL.
 
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