Straightening resin (TIE Interceptor wing)

[CessnaDriver]

So I got a stubborn TIE interceptor wing.

It's slighty warped outward, I've heated the hell out of it, got it to be straight but it will go back as soon as it cools even if I cool it in the other direction. If I deform it further back at the base of the triangular wing, it will stay straight up front, but then I have the nasty warped base area. I think if I take a razor saw and cut into the wing in a non detailed area at the base inward and up, this will allow the wing some room to flex back into proper shape without having to deform the base of the wing, and I can fill and sand it in.

Before doing that, as it is a bit drastic and I'm out of ideas, was curious if there was some other trick I'm not aware of.

 

[Jm419]

Are you allowing it to aircool or are you cooling it in water, or something? The water cooling is what I usually use, and you could just back it with a ruler or something along those lines to reinforce it until it's solid.

 

[Scott Graham]

I've never done it before, but what if you milled/gouged out a trench in the flat undetailed area and embed a metal rod in it. It's a bit drastic, but it might be the only way to achieve what you need - since you've tried the other methods.

 

[CessnaDriver]

I tried fast cool, slow cool, weights to hold in place against a flat piece of glass.
Over bending it so it would relax back to where it should be, but it always goes back to the original warping. You can heat it and it will normalize pretty fast, but once cold it warps.
It's like it's just too much resin somewhere that needs to go somewhere.
The wing does have a metal rod molded inside running along the inner edge to prevent drooping, I don't think that is fighting me though.

It's like it has to much resin somewhere that needs to go someplace that it can't until I cut that relief groove.

 

[CessnaDriver]

The red line is where I would intend to cut a relief area.
In that area, is where if I allowed it to warp, the rest of the wing could stay straight.
Like that is a bunching up point.
It seems like a mild warp but it is very stubborn.

 

[Jedi Dade]

Heat it - usually soak it in "HOT water"

Bend it straight

Clamp it between two straight pieces of wood (carefully)

Dip in "warm water"

Dip in cold water

unclamp


I really think that cutting a releive line will not solve your issue.
Jedi Dade

 

[darth_myeek]

...
Clamp it between two straight pieces of wood (carefully)...

To add to JD's suggestions, you could use router mat (between the board and casting) to protect the details when clamping.

 

[jedimaster]

Definitely go the hot water. I usually run a hot bath and place it in until it softens. Then clamp it between two pieces of wood and just let the water cool down naturally. Come back in an hour or so and run it under the cold tap and unclamp.

Works most of the time. Failing that just sell me the kit. It's on my list.

 

[falcondesigns]

boil water,place in a large enough container,place part for at least five minutes.....be ready to cool with cold water bath.

 

[CessnaDriver]

Thanks guys, I'll give her another shot and get the temperature and pressures up.

 

[Sluis Van Shipyards]

I usually run a hot bath and place it in until it softens.

Should I light candles and use some aroma therapy oils with that? :lol

Seriously hot water has worked for me 90% of the time. Still I'd swear that some kit makers use memory plastic or something.

 

[jedimaster]

Should I light candles and use some aroma therapy oils with that? :lol

Seriously hot water has worked for me 90% of the time. Still I'd swear that some kit makers use memory plastic or something.

Don't forget the music, maybe some Barry White!

 

[CessnaDriver]

If I thought it would work I'd do it.

 

[jedimaster]

If I thought it would work I'd do it.

With some resins Norah Jones works better.:lol