Star Trek into Darkness: Klingon heavy disruptor [electronic help needed!]

Something you have to consider on creating the final "look" of the light blast in real time, live, is that you are trying to replicate an effect that was done by CGI.
Will you want the LED light to be visible slightly from the sides as well as directly in front?
A diffuser may be needed to create the "full on coverage of the barrel".
An ultra bright LED will have a "hot spot" from it's origin. You may want a more "even light" across the opening by diffusion.
How large is the opening of the barrel?
Does the blast start out dim and then rapidly go to full on, then a slow fade to off?
Would the blast need to "expand from center" (starting with a small point of light) to then have several rings of light turn on in sequence
until fully lit, very rapidly?

Nice idea, but to do this it will be necessary to use a heatsink for sure,,, anything above 2 to 3 seconds on time will heat the led up to where again some type of heatsink/cooling fins will be required.
 
Mostly small dim to full and ten fade, or just on and fade.

It doesn't need the extremities of being visible from the side. I usually create a kind of cover so the led looks diffused. I will wait until it gets in to see how it will be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
In the meantime, I've been doing some actual work on the thing. So I really dislike this version of the barrel and decided to make it look battle damaged and went on with detailing and plastidipping. Now it grates much less on my eyes. But I will definitely make a new barrel once the competitions are over and I have the time to replace it. Thank god I built it separated from the rest.

3YuI6Izl.jpg


E266IQZl.jpg


YNtdFjHl.jpg
 
I used ledstrips for smaug, but even though it looks cool, I probably don't want to go for that, due to the fact that the barrel will be replaced in due time. So I thought of covering up the LED star with a dome that's a bit sanded for diffused effect. I'll see how it looks like when I get it in though.
 
LED strips have come along way since they first appeared. Much brighter and flexible now.
When ever I build props, I tend to make things removable, repairable and replaceable, so
the LED rings and STAR LED would be built into a self contained unit that could easily be
removed and adapted to something else.
But as you say, keeping it simple on this project is the best angle since you are inevitably
going to make some changes.

.
 
Components are slowly coming in. How 'simple' is soldering it? I need the transistor(s), resistors, the LED, Arduino, button, and battery.

Im not a wonderbrain when it comes to this. I'm proud of being able to make the flickering light on the side. So if you guys could help me with how-to-connect, that'd be ace. :)

Thanks in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Some people have trouble soldering to the "stars" as they are mounted on a heat sink. A couple things that help; tin the contact points first, before attempting to add the wires. Use a high temperature. Avoid the new leadless solders if you can...this is a place where having some of that old easier-flowing stuff can really help.

For LEDs, it helps to work fast. They can be damaged by excessive heat.

As for the circuit diagram; the really simplest tutorial on wiring the MOSFET is this one: http://bildr.org/2012/03/rfp30n06le-arduino/
 
I have an old soldering iron (two actually) and I just use regular tin. Should be good enough right?

I'm having those other resistors, recommended earlier in the thread. I need to get me a button too. The construction of the cannon is nearly done though. I heard all of the components are on its way. I fear they won't be in time for F.A.C.T.S. Ghent, but hopefully on time for MCM London..
 
I have an old soldering iron (two actually) and I just use regular tin. Should be good enough right?

I'm having those other resistors, recommended earlier in the thread. I need to get me a button too. The construction of the cannon is nearly done though. I heard all of the components are on its way. I fear they won't be in time for F.A.C.T.S. Ghent, but hopefully on time for MCM London..

60/40 rosin core solder is exactly what you want to use,,, soldering the wires to the star will require a hot iron around 30 to 50 watts and as stated above pre tin everything, the rest of the components can use 15/30 watt setting to do , you don't want to take longer than 2 to 3 seconds on the small leds unless you are using a heatsink on the legs of the led ( gator clip) to keep it from overheating the simple leds and any other simple soldering you do ( the more experience you get soldering the better you will be at it ;) ) .

Hope this helps out a little more for you to accomplish this really nice cannon

here is a whole page of tutorials on youtube for you to check out ;

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=soldering+tutorial+electronics
 
Well keep in mind I have to work with the tools I have. I can't just change settings. I soldered the (in my opinion) pretty complicated flickering light thing which I posted earlier. I'll see what happens when the components come in. I'm not a bad solderer, it's just the schemes and to translate them to a physical thing are hard when your mind is derping out on anything that is even slightly related to numbers. Despite the disability I still try, so at least every time I accomplish the electrical things I want in my props and costume, is a personal victory for me.

I used to solder a lot when I was younger. I didn't know anything about electronics, but at least I got it to work... hah..
 
Oh...the ballast resistors on the star need to be sized to match. You can get away with those little 1/8th watt on the regular-sized LEDs but you want 1/2 watt or better for the star. The online LED calculator widget will tell you the recommended wattage, too. Like the star, the resistors can be undersized and still function as long as they aren't on too long.
 
These are the components I have in atm. I need to get a 'pulse' switch, but is there anything, other than resistor, that I am missing? (black/yellow/red/black thing you see is some kind of module. I used it to connect 3 LED's to two AA batteries for my Gundam. If that makes any sense.)

XInZdqIl.png
 
Think about a hunk of perf-board. Better yet, strip-board. I really, really love Adafruit's "perma-proto." It's a strip board laid out like a breadboard. https://www.adafruit.com/product/571

And I realize that was all greek, but anyhow, is a lot easier to push wire through holes in a block of plastic that keeps them organized, and better yet if there's already copper on the back side that does a lot of the "wiring" for you.
 
Ok, but it's not essential. My deadline is either friday, or the week after on thursday. So I don't really have the time to wait for another piece to come in. Do I need anything else but the resistors or not? Essential stuff I mean? Because if not, I can start soldering, and that's definitely not the part that worries me. The part that worries me is getting it all right and working. Especially the pulse blast. Which is just

Push Button
Flash of light
Fade out in 2-3 seconds

Now I've played around in the arduino coding, but I really can't get past the basic fade/breathe and push buttons and combine them.

I'm sorry for sounding a bit brash but I'm kind of feeling the pressure as of now. Tomorrow the last bits of construction should be done, and I've planned wednesday for painting. Electronics will be fitted when done.
 
I'm always stunned when folks go right to a microcontroller to do something as simple as the effect you've described. I'd use a MOSFET voltage follower to drive the LED, and a simple RC timer with diode bypass on the resistor for the input signal, to give near-instant charging and slow-fade discharging. If I wanted to get a little fancier, I'd add trigger debouncing with a one-shot circuit (either transistor-based, or using a 555 timer). Don't forget to use a heat sink on the MOSFET.
 
if you are just going to use the 2 aa batt pack you do not need any resistor for the blaster led it runs from 2.9 to 3.5 volts, if you are going to power everything from the batt pack you will not have enough voltage to power anything, a 4.5(3 X AA) or 6(4 AA) volt pack would be better and resistor everything from there.
 
I'm always stunned when folks go right to a microcontroller to do something as simple as the effect you've described. I'd use a MOSFET voltage follower to drive the LED, and a simple RC timer with diode bypass on the resistor for the input signal, to give near-instant charging and slow-fade discharging. If I wanted to get a little fancier, I'd add trigger debouncing with a one-shot circuit (either transistor-based, or using a 555 timer). Don't forget to use a heat sink on the MOSFET.

I'm all for simple stuff really. I just thought I needed the arduino (and I still had it laying around)
I have some TIP120 Power Darlington Transistors, are they different than the MOSFET one? 555 timer is something I've seen earlier.

So to be clear, because I'm losing track on all of this. I need to get the high power led which is mounted on a heatsink, to go full power when I press the button. Since it's a pulse button, it's supposed to be a 'wave'. The LED is supposed to go FULL on, and fade out in a few seconds.

I have the transistors mentioned above.
a cree high power led, warm white,
2 AA batteries (goal).
A LED module which acts as a kind of resistor (I can't find it anymore on the site, I'll need to get back on that)
Will get a 555 timer.
and an arduino micro. (which is apparently not necessary.)
I have also gotten these diodes(opens in PDF).

I have a variety of resistors and one capacitor. What do I need? I need it all QUICKLY. And I do not have the time to order it all from over the world. I also need to have an understandable circuit happening. All the circuits I see are for breathing/fade in and out. I just want a single blast when I press the button.

Thanks in advance! I really need it asap.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top