A quick note and update:
As far as some of the features of the timer will operate, this will boil down to two different categories: software and hardware.
All software functions are kind of left open to do some customizable features as to preference and can be changed any time. The hardware aspect is harder to modify once the board it printed.
Things like beeping and how the displays are turned off for power saving is all software. Unfortunately the flip plate sleep mode is both. While software would determine that the device goes to sleep, I will need to install a magnetic reed switch on the board just as the original Motorola phone once had on it. There is a magnet inside of the flip plate that would operate the reed switch on the phone. Obviously it appears that I wouldn't need to find a supplier for these magnetic switches before if you are making a timer, you most likely have the phone and probably can rip the one off of it. However, I would much rather have an outside source for the parts rather than hope 25+ year old devices have a reliable part that is actually made of glass available for use. I will most likely add a reed switch into the mix at some point during some version as I have always wanted to do so considering the ease of the task.
I will be completely redoing the board also to clean it up a bit and add arrays of connectors that can jump across the board which will free up a lot of space and reduce that chances of fabrication errors on the PCB.
For the "power-level" meter above the dial I'm thinking of something a little bit more mechanical instead of electronic. Its basically just going to be either a red insert or a diffused LED light that is covered/uncovered by the knob. I haven't gotten to this point yet in the designing process. Version 1 of the board will be an analogue static insert, version 2 will probably be LED lighting.
Kind of an important update though, I have switched the board files out. So the ones available for download in the main folder there linked above are the new ones, and inside of the "old-surface-mount-displays-brd" folder is the original design. I fiddled with the PCB a bit and was able to get through-hole connections for the HH:MM:SS digits. I have had enough with trying the surface mount soldering what is supposed to be through-hole. The new design requires a couple of jumper connections, which I hate using, but its nothing major.
I have checked the connections in the software and they appear to all be good, but as I always say, I can guarantee nothing until I have it in my hands myself, I will have to get the new boards in and check them before I can verify anything.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Got some new work done, and I figured that I would get some pictures up to add a little more clarity:
The circuit requires "Rset" resistors, one resistor for each MAX72xx display driver. I planned the circuit so that these resistors can be changed out because I am not super confident in my math by just looking at the approximate power supply that I will using and the spec sheets to components that I am not completely used to. So I designed a socket on the board to plug in the resistors to avoid any possible desoldering.
I started out with a regular IC socket like this that can be found at most electronics stores (Fry's Electronics for anyone in AZ), just make sure they are sturdy round hole that go all the way through the plastic; you'll see in the later pictures.
Do a little unprofessional deconstruction and you can either use the type on the left that I cut out or you can just rip out just the metal things. I would suggest keeping the plastic on there as I have the middle holes in the PCB as dummy holes (only the two end pins actually connect to anything on the board).
I chose to rip out the metal pieces. You can see the holes in the middle that will allow an intact row of socket pins to also go in for security.
Resistor fits nicely into the pin sockets (this is just the first resistor that I grabbed. I don't remember what actual resistors I ended up using the for Rset resistors right now, and I won't have anything set in stone until I get the second board made).
As far as some of the features of the timer will operate, this will boil down to two different categories: software and hardware.
All software functions are kind of left open to do some customizable features as to preference and can be changed any time. The hardware aspect is harder to modify once the board it printed.
Things like beeping and how the displays are turned off for power saving is all software. Unfortunately the flip plate sleep mode is both. While software would determine that the device goes to sleep, I will need to install a magnetic reed switch on the board just as the original Motorola phone once had on it. There is a magnet inside of the flip plate that would operate the reed switch on the phone. Obviously it appears that I wouldn't need to find a supplier for these magnetic switches before if you are making a timer, you most likely have the phone and probably can rip the one off of it. However, I would much rather have an outside source for the parts rather than hope 25+ year old devices have a reliable part that is actually made of glass available for use. I will most likely add a reed switch into the mix at some point during some version as I have always wanted to do so considering the ease of the task.
I will be completely redoing the board also to clean it up a bit and add arrays of connectors that can jump across the board which will free up a lot of space and reduce that chances of fabrication errors on the PCB.
For the "power-level" meter above the dial I'm thinking of something a little bit more mechanical instead of electronic. Its basically just going to be either a red insert or a diffused LED light that is covered/uncovered by the knob. I haven't gotten to this point yet in the designing process. Version 1 of the board will be an analogue static insert, version 2 will probably be LED lighting.
Kind of an important update though, I have switched the board files out. So the ones available for download in the main folder there linked above are the new ones, and inside of the "old-surface-mount-displays-brd" folder is the original design. I fiddled with the PCB a bit and was able to get through-hole connections for the HH:MM:SS digits. I have had enough with trying the surface mount soldering what is supposed to be through-hole. The new design requires a couple of jumper connections, which I hate using, but its nothing major.
I have checked the connections in the software and they appear to all be good, but as I always say, I can guarantee nothing until I have it in my hands myself, I will have to get the new boards in and check them before I can verify anything.
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Got some new work done, and I figured that I would get some pictures up to add a little more clarity:
The circuit requires "Rset" resistors, one resistor for each MAX72xx display driver. I planned the circuit so that these resistors can be changed out because I am not super confident in my math by just looking at the approximate power supply that I will using and the spec sheets to components that I am not completely used to. So I designed a socket on the board to plug in the resistors to avoid any possible desoldering.
I started out with a regular IC socket like this that can be found at most electronics stores (Fry's Electronics for anyone in AZ), just make sure they are sturdy round hole that go all the way through the plastic; you'll see in the later pictures.
Do a little unprofessional deconstruction and you can either use the type on the left that I cut out or you can just rip out just the metal things. I would suggest keeping the plastic on there as I have the middle holes in the PCB as dummy holes (only the two end pins actually connect to anything on the board).
I chose to rip out the metal pieces. You can see the holes in the middle that will allow an intact row of socket pins to also go in for security.
Resistor fits nicely into the pin sockets (this is just the first resistor that I grabbed. I don't remember what actual resistors I ended up using the for Rset resistors right now, and I won't have anything set in stone until I get the second board made).
thumbsup It's a Christmas miracle. Wow great job man!, Definitely unique from others I've seen. Your design seems so complex with all the various features, and switches...almost like it'd be the real deal! 
