Replicating the refit enterprise pearlescent look with decals

[real9thdoctor]

Hey all. Just got a 1/350 refit PL Enterprise kit and have a question.

I am not painting the aztec panels in, as I tried aztecing the Revell kit as part of a comversion. And just the masking for the upper saucer and nacelles drove this non drinker to drink!(not really, but you know what I mean) I never finished the kit because of the pain just the masking induced.

So for this build I plan to use the decals. I want the pearlescent look though. Could I just overspray with a pearlescent clearcoat? I dunno how that would look with decals though.

Thanks for any advice you guys can give.

 

[JeffBond]

The Aztec look depends on the contrast between flat white panels and pearlescent panels. You could do a base coat of pearl white and decal over that but I don’t think you can really duplicate the movie look with decals.

 

[real9thdoctor]

The Aztec look depends on the contrast between flat white panels and pearlescent panels. You could do a base coat of pearl white and decal over that but I don’t think you can really duplicate the movie look with decals.

Yeah, I rather assumed so. Well, I will try, and if I can make something work, then yay. If not, as long as it overall looks good then whatever.

 

[Bloop]

I don't know if this would work, but you could try spraying the decals before applying them with a clear pearl spray paint that works on paper. I've made my own waterslide decals that you print on an inkjet printer then seal with Krylon clear coat paint, so I assume that could work on other waterslide decals. Krylon makes a clear "Glitter" spray that gives a peral-like shimmer, and works on most surfaces. I presume the paint needs to be acrylic to use on paper, as Krylon is, rather than enamel, but I don't know for sure. Acrylics are water soluble when applied, but water-resistant when dry, which is necessary for waterslide decals (I think enamels would destroy the decals). There may be other acylic brands that offere clear peal-like finishes, but I mention Krylon since I have experience using it for decals. You could test it on some leftover decals and see if it works.

 

[real9thdoctor]

I don't know if this would work, but you could try spraying the decals before applying them with a clear pearl spray paint that works on paper. I've made my own waterslide decals that you print on an inkjet printer then seal with Krylon clear coat paint, so I assume that could work on other waterslide decals. Krylon makes a clear "Glitter" spray that gives a peral-like shimmer, and works on most surfaces. I presume the paint needs to be acrylic to use on paper, as Krylon is, rather than enamel, but I don't know for sure. Acrylics are water soluble when applied, but water-resistant when dry, which is necessary for waterslide decals (I think enamels would destroy the decals). There may be other acylic brands that offere clear peal-like finishes, but I mention Krylon since I have experience using it for decals. You could test it on some leftover decals and see if it works.

View attachment 1844830

Yeah, I will have to test that. Ginna be a while before I get to this build, so the time before that can be used experimenting.

 

[Bloop]

If the Krylon is too glittery and not pearl enough, I found a Rust-Oleum frosted pearl coat that also works on all surfaces:

 

[real9thdoctor]

If the Krylon is too glittery and not pearl enough, I found a Rust-Oleum frosted pearl coat that also works on all surfaces:
View attachment 1844831

Tamiya makes a pearlescent clearcoat, so maybe I can spray the decals with that, semigloss the ship itself and then slap on the decals. That way I don't have to worry about dulling the decals.

 

[Bloop]

Tamiya makes a pearlescent clearcoat, so maybe I can spray the decals with that, semigloss the ship itself and then slap on the decals. That way I don't have to worry about dulling the decals.

I saw the Tamaya clear pearl, but it's enamel paint, so I don't know if that would destroy the decals. But as long as you have the time to experiment, and don't mind buying a few things that you might not be able to use, you might as well try it.

 

[real9thdoctor]

I saw the Tamaya clear pearl, but it's enamel paint, so I don't know if that would destroy the decals. But as long as you have the time to experiment, and don't mind buying a few things that you might not be able to use, you might as well try it.

Oh, I assumed it was lacquer. Good to know.

 

[Bloop]

Oh, I assumed it was lacquer. Good to know.

I guess I don't know for sure, I thought it was enamel, but I see a couple different kinds of clear pearl by Tamaya - one says it's specifically for polycarbonites (like the bodies of RC cars), another says lacquer, but being for ABS plastic and styrene. I'd guess that anything with acetone in it (the polycarbonite one has it for sure) would damage the decals, but I really don't know. I'm just assuming acrylics are the safest bet based on my own experience.

 

[real9thdoctor]

I guess I don't know for sure, I thought it was enamel, but I see a couple different kinds of clear pearl by Tamaya - one says it's specifically for polycarbonites (like the bodies of RC cars), another says lacquer, but being for ABS plastic and styrene. I'd guess that anything with acetone in it (the polycarbonite one has it for sure) would damage the decals, but I really don't know. I'm just assuming acrylics are the safest bet based on my own experience.

Well, I have plenty of time to research.

 

[pengbuzz]

You could try using post-it notes as masks on the decals (the adhesive on them shouldn't pull them up) and try masking various panels on the decals to spray with the pearlescent/ iridescent paint.

Also: it depends on if you're doing the E-A or the Refit. The E-A had a bit of a duller appearance and much less of the pearlescent effect the TMP Refit did.

 

[real9thdoctor]

You could try using post-it notes as masks on the decals (the adhesive on them shouldn't pull them up) and try masking various panels on the decals to spray with the pearlescent/ iridescent paint.

Also: it depends on if you're doing the E-A or the Refit. The E-A had a bit of a duller appearance and much less of the pearlescent effect the TMP Refit did.

Possible. Plenty of time to figure it out.

From what I have read and seen, you're mostly right. After TMP the model got a total dullcoat, and lost all pearlescent shine.and stayed that way even after becoming the E-A.

And I will make the refit. No bloddy A. Lol.

 

[publiusr]

I wonder if you could mix some scotchlite with pearl for every other aztek...

 

[PHArchivist]

I have both the Tamiya Pearl Clear and Testor's White Lightning I am planning on testing for the 8" long Polar Lights Refit

But- as mentioned in this thread, even if the generate a great pearl finish, part of the magic of the original paint job is the variance in sheen over the panels.

An all-encompassing, comprehensive clear coat will defeat that...

 

[real9thdoctor]

I have both the Tamiya Pearl Clear and Testor's White lightning I am planning on testing for the 8" long Polar Lights Refit

But- as mentioned in this thread, even if the generate a great pearl finish, part of the magic of the original paint job is the variance in sheen over the panels.

An all-encompassing clear coat will defeat that...

I am not spray a single clearcoat over the entire model. My plan is to dullcoat certain areas where decals won't be, and glosscoat others. After decals are on I'll use the pearlescent clear over the decals, then spot brush brush on dullcoat as needed assuming I can find good references. Worst case the final clearcoat will be the pearl clear.