Puddy/Filler Help???

[Fuzzual]

Hello all, I was hoping a few of you would share a little of your expertise?

I am working on a small scale model of the Death Star Trench, and I am wondering what type of puddy/filler you all are using in the event that you need to fill a gaps or spaces. There are a couple of spots that I have cut a little more than I should have:cry

I am working mostly with Polystyrene and various model kits, so I need what ever the material is to adhere to that material.

Thank you so much for the help!!!

 

[Lestat]

Don't know if this will work for you, but I have a Laser pistol replica from V, made from solid resin, and it needed some small gaps and bubbles filling, I used car dent filler, it worked perfectly and was easy to sand. Hope this helps.

 

[Fuzzual]

Don't know if this will work for you, but I have a Laser pistol replica from V, made from solid resin, and it needed some small gaps and bubbles filling, I used car dent filler, it worked perfectly and was easy to sand. Hope this helps.

I'm familiar with Bondo, I've used it on some of my large scale props and such, but I wasn't sure if that was the best method for small model applications. If there isn't a better product, then I sure will try that. Thanks!

 

[Lestat]

I'm familiar with Bondo, I've used it on some of my large scale props and such, but I wasn't sure if that was the best method for small model applications. If there isn't a better product, then I sure will try that. Thanks!

Test it on something first though--I wouldn't want to be responsible for messing up your project!

 

[Fuzzual]

Test it on something first though--I wouldn't want to be responsible for messing up your project!

Sure will brother, thanks.

 

[trekman1017]

I use metal patch fill. It is easy to sand and dries quickly. The last part is also a disadvantage because you need to work quickly.

 

[franz bolo]

Aves Epoxy Putty or even Bondo Glazing Putty. Regular Bondo might be to course.

I'd have to see what you need but this is what it sounds like you need.

FB

 

[JPolacchi]

Super Glue w/Zap gap Accellerator for small gaps and bubbles(small indentations).Sometimes I'll use Devcon "steel filled" 5 min epoxy, Aves Epoxy Sculpt is good and I also like to use Squadron putty.I'd stay away from using bondo unless you are working on something big?I also had used an epoxy based bondo filler that worked well I got from Tap Plastics years ago.It dried/cured fast,sanded smooth and didn't shrink.The auto glaze putty sounds like it would work pretty well too.Upon ocasion, if I had styrene scrap,or if I felt like cutting up kit sprue into small pieces...I would mix it with my liquid cement(or MEK) to make a thick plastic based putty.

 

[Fuzzual]

Super Glue w/Zap gap Accellerator for small gaps and bubbles(small indentations).Sometimes I'll use Devcon "steel filled" 5 min epoxy, Aves Epoxy Sculpt is good and I also like to use Squadron putty.I'd stay away from using bondo unless you are working on something big?I also had used an epoxy based bondo filler that worked well I got from Tap Plastics years ago.It dried/cured fast,sanded smooth and didn't shrink.The auto glaze putty sounds like it would work pretty well too.Upon ocasion, if I had styrene scrap,or if I felt like cutting up kit sprue into small pieces...I would mix it with my liquid cement(or MEK) to make a thick plastic based putty.

Crazy enough I picked up some Aves Epoxy Sculpt yesterday on the off chance it would work, and it did. Thank you for the other suggestions as well.

 

[Fuzzual]

Aves Epoxy Putty or even Bondo Glazing Putty. Regular Bondo might be to course.

I'd have to see what you need but this is what it sounds like you need.

FB

Thanks for the help. I attached the a pic so you could see what I was working with. I cut the top piece of the tower too short and needed something to fill in the gap on the back top left side. After the Aves Epoxy Putty fill you can't even see it.

 

[SingleSeat]

Ok, here's another solution.

Depending on the application with styrene, you can usually plan on applying a liquid cement liberally so that it squeezes/bubbles out when the parts are pushed together. This tells you that as much of the space between the parts as possible is filled with cement. That cement is going to go to work for you melting each piece of styrene into the other a little bit at a time. When everything is "dry," you can sand it to a seamless appearance. The only time this gets dicey is when you are dealing with really thin sheets like .010-.020" because glue sinks can develop with time, but you can still game it out and putty over them if worse comes to worse.

If you still have gaps after sanding, Squadron Green is a heavier modeling putty, whereas stuff like Tamiya's putty is lighter and less durable. Minimizing application means minimizing sanding, so smaller and lighter is better, but just be sure the area you need to flatten is covered. Don't be shocked if you have to go back in with more putty or sanding after the first attempt.

If I were building this part, I would have worked all that before the greeblies went on, but it looks like you can still work around them to some extent. I say sand the seams that you have already cemented and then see where the gaps pan out (assuming you used a plastic cement that bonded the joints). Then go in with the Squadron Green. If you can swing it, wet sanding is better.

 

[Fuzzual]

Ok, here's another solution.

Depending on the application with styrene, you can usually plan on applying a liquid cement liberally so that it squeezes/bubbles out when the parts are pushed together. This tells you that as much of the space between the parts as possible is filled with cement. That cement is going to go to work for you melting each piece of styrene into the other a little bit at a time. When everything is "dry," you can sand it to a seamless appearance. The only time this gets dicey is when you are dealing with really thin sheets like .010-.020" because glue sinks can develop with time, but you can still game it out and putty over them if worse comes to worse.

If you still have gaps after sanding, Squadron Green is a heavier modeling putty, whereas stuff like Tamiya's putty is lighter and less durable. Minimizing application means minimizing sanding, so smaller and lighter is better, but just be sure the area you need to flatten is covered. Don't be shocked if you have to go back in with more putty or sanding after the first attempt.

If I were building this part, I would have worked all that before the greeblies went on, but it looks like you can still work around them to some extent. I say sand the seams that you have already cemented and then see where the gaps pan out (assuming you used a plastic cement that bonded the joints). Then go in with the Squadron Green. If you can swing it, wet sanding is better.

Thank you for the in-depth help, it is much appreciated!