Overdying a Cotton Suit

[Dave Ward]

So I'm trying to find a solution - I need to dye a cotton suit, and another RPF member gave me this advice. Because of the heat needed to make the dye work:

"The issue you're going to have is that suits are made with fusible interfacing. There's a good chance that will all separate from the fabric on the inside and the lapels and whatnot will all lose their shape. Also, the cotton will shrink slightly, but the liner probably won't, which could result in liner peaking out of the cuffs and hem."

What does everyone else think? Is there a dye that works at lower temperatures? Or something that will help "set" the interlacing?

 

[Shylaah]

What dye to use to give you the results you want with the garment you have?

Some things to consider.
How hot does the dye you're planning on using have to be to be effective?
Is the suit 100% cotton.
Is the suit brand new/what is the care instructions on it?
What fiber is the lining?
What color is it now and what color are you dying it?

Most dyes require more heat for darker colors. You can juggle the failure of the fusible interfacing's adhesive against the heat required to get a dark color, by keeping the dye bath just under what would cause that failure.

For the fusible interfacing on cotton, I would guess they used the highest iron-on temperature recommended for cotton. On a household iron the cotton setting is 193 degrees F, commercially set fusible interfacing probably uses a similar temp as not to scorch the fabric.

So if you get you a candy or deep fry thermometer with measure at least down to 100 degrees F, and keep the dye bath warm enough for the dye to be effective but below 190 degrees F or so that would hopefully allow the interfacing to remain attached---might experiment on a similar garment in plain water as there's really not an "inconspicuous spot" of an interfaced area on a garment.

Interfacing is applied to the facing of a garment, not to the garment itself, and the primary reason for using fusible interfacing is to avoid the expense of the labor it would cost to sew the interfacing on. Once the garment is complete, I can't see that the failure of the adhesive would affect the performance of the the interfacing too much.

There will be shrinkage of the cotton. The higher the percentage of cotton, the more shrinkage there will be. It will shrink some just in a regular washing, more in a hot dye bath and if dried in a dryer. Fabric shrinks more on the lengthwise grain, which runs, unless there were some special circumstances or for design considerations, top to bottom of garments. So jackets, skirts, pants, the shrinkage, if noticeable at all, is going to be more noticeable in their length. So if it did shrink and the lining started hanging out the bottom and the sleeves, wouldn't be too much trouble to adjust it as with most lined garments, hanging-out-lining happens naturally with wear anyway and has to be adjusted.

It is difficult when you're working with a one-of item and can't experiment too much, but if you can find a similar garment in the back of your closet or at a thrift shop to experiment on, I'd recommend it.

Of course, all of the above is moot if you're dying a white suit to a pale baby blue


Shylaah

 

[Dave Ward]

Terrific advice! I love this community!

Great idea to get a thermometer, and maybe try and pick up a cotton suit jacket from a charity shop to experiment on.

I’m dying an electric blue suit darker, although not as dark as a navy. If anything, the suit runs a little large, so some shrinking would be fine as long as it doesn’t warp the shape.

Is there a brand of dye that works better at lower temperatures?

 

[Shylaah]

I've only ever used the ye olde garden variety Rit dye--easy to find, simple and safe to use. There are fiber reactive cold water dyes out there, but I've not had any experience with them. Hopefully someone else here has will chime in.....

Meanwhile.........
if you go with the Rit or similar, and you're going darker on the blue you have, but not as dark as navy, might try the navy, or buy the navy as well to add into and darken whichever blue you choose. Using a darker blue than you really want you can use less heat in the dying.

Here's some Rit blue mixes, but of course you have to take into consideration the color the suit already is as well. Again, some experimenting with amount ratios--by the capful, buy the spoonful, by whatever small measure you have as long as you're consistent with it--on some similar fabric would be helpful, as you are the one who knows exactly what color you're wanting, and you know the old axiom about "your results may vary".

Shylaah

 

[EHyde]

For cotton, you can use fiber-reactive dye, which does not require heat. It generally produces stronger and more permanent colors than RIT dye, too (RIT dye will often fade over time). You used to be able to find fiber reactive dye in craft stores but the ones in my area have stopped carrying them, but Dharma Trading carries them online, and they also have a guide on using them. Craft Information - Solid Color Dyeing Instructions from Dharma Trading Company
To get a good result with fiber reactive dye, you need to soak the item you're dying in a mixture of soda ash and water first. Soda ash is also available from Dharma or in some supermarkets (as "washing soda").

 

[Dave Ward]

Thanks for the advice, all! I'm going to order some of those Dharma products.