My Sterling to E-11 Blaster Project

TK 4702

Active Member
Recently started working on my E-11 blaster. I purchased a deactivated Sterling SMG kit online from Apex Gun Parts. It required a lot of cutting and grinding, and so far no welding. Most of it has been epoxy resin (aka cold weld adhesive). Although the handgrip keeps breaking off whenever I start to play with it. :) So I may have it welded, at least for that part.

Anyhow, the follow will be some photos from the build.

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Mine is currently sitting in a million pieces with all the JB Weld that once held it together looking as sad and forlorn as yours. Having it brazed back together is the only way unfortunately. I'm just trying to find a legal or semi-legal way of doing it. I don't want a functional sub machine gun. I just want a little prop space ray gun.
 
Mine is currently sitting in a million pieces with all the JB Weld that once held it together looking as sad and forlorn as yours. Having it brazed back together is the only way unfortunately. I'm just trying to find a legal or semi-legal way of doing it. I don't want a functional sub machine gun. I just want a little prop space ray gun.

Yeah, I hear ya! I'm hoping that since it's mostly glued together, it's NOT considered a functional firearm. I don't plan on trooping with it, too heavy for that. But it would be a display piece that picked up once in a while.

I was going to talk to a gunsmith and get some advice.
 
I've always wanted to assemble an E11 wit real Sterling parts like this. I love projects like these and this one has shown some great work. Someday I want to tackle one of these and maybe even SBR a semi-auto Sterling into a somewhat E-11 like setup.
 
Wow excellent stuff! I love the way you integrated the front part onto the receiver tube. And the rear locking mechanism. :thumbsup

I'm trying to do the same but I need someone to buy me a parts kit from Apex and ship it to me in the UK. I know a few things included I cannot have over here like the bolt and the trigger assembly. But I can have the trigger housing and the springs and everything else included the kit.
I don't suppose you or anyone else fancy getting one for me and shipping it over? You can keep the bolt and trigger assembly. I'll pay for the shipping to you and to me and for the kit.
If not no worries I'll start a WTB thread.....
I have a receiver tube already cut and have all the electronics from Plecter labs to go in it.

Sorry for the hijack....:)
 
Looking at all your parts made me cringe...yours got cut up REAL BAD! :eek

Yeah I'd definitely get that grip welded...even just a couple of tag welds would be enough to hold it...you can then cover up the seams with bondo and smooth it over before painting.
 
Yeah I'd definitely get that grip welded...

You can silver solder it yourself, just like factory new with a propane (preferably MAP) torch, IMO welding is overkill and generally looks pretty ugly on these rebuilds...

That's how deactivations are here in the US.

Actually that is how the 'new' batch of deactivations look after the ATF cracked down on the original batches that were super clean cuts...

It still amazes me that people spend and devote the time to grind the heck out of these vs simply heating them up and popping the pieces off... All the power the ones that do, it shows devotion...
 
You can silver solder it yourself, just like factory new with a propane (preferably MAP) torch, IMO welding is overkill and generally looks pretty ugly on these rebuilds...

I tried that. Didn't work. MAP was hot enough to get all the pieces apart, but it wouldn't properly rebraze the parts with new silver solder, and I tried several different types....unless I just totally suck and was doing it wrong, which is a possibility.
 
Nope, you don't suck. Silver soldering simply won't adhere to this type of metal. You need good old welding for it to have a strong enough join.

I beg to differ based on experience, and tons of factual data to support otherwise... Gunsmiths still silver solder parts on guns every day...

Silver solder works just fine, it's all in the application, technique and proper use of the proper flux...

The Sterling SMGs were silver soldered (or brass brazed depending on the manufacture date) from the factory when they were made, proof positive it works just fine and holds plenty well...

For prop build ups H-Force 44 and #4 Comet Flux from the links below works well... 14,000-28,000 PSI that is a TON (actually 7-14 tons) of holding power and it melts at 475° F so even the most basic torch can be used... Did I mention how important flux and technique is?

World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS
 
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