Egon Spengler
Master Member
How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor? Anyone? 
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My Armor: How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor?
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Egon Spengler
Master Member
Re: How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor?
Bullets bouncing off it would be cool, but I'm just looking for durable costume strength
Bullets bouncing off it would be cool, but I'm just looking for durable costume strength
Leander
Active Member
Re: How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor?
I usually do 2 layers of resin (without fiberglass) on the outside. then 1 or 2 layers with fiberglass on the inside.
however there are various different fiberglass weaves all have different strengths.
some examples can be found here:
Fiberglass Cloth
I myself use 160gr /m2 (sorry for using metric system)
I usually do 2 layers of resin (without fiberglass) on the outside. then 1 or 2 layers with fiberglass on the inside.
however there are various different fiberglass weaves all have different strengths.
some examples can be found here:
Fiberglass Cloth
I myself use 160gr /m2 (sorry for using metric system)
Re: How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor?
yeah this will add enough strengh to your armor. I have build a helmet with that method and its really hard.
2 layers on the outside first, then one inside and then one with fiberglass.
That was enough to make it really solid.
Also i would suggest to use Fiberglass cloth and not fiberglass matting.
the mat likes to fall into single hairs.
yeah this will add enough strengh to your armor. I have build a helmet with that method and its really hard.
2 layers on the outside first, then one inside and then one with fiberglass.
That was enough to make it really solid.
Also i would suggest to use Fiberglass cloth and not fiberglass matting.
the mat likes to fall into single hairs.
irishamericanlad
Sr Member
Re: How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor?
im a roving woven fan myself for the kurgan helmets...
im a roving woven fan myself for the kurgan helmets...
clonesix
Master Member
Re: How many layers of fiberglass makes strong armor?
Fiberglass comes by oz/ft^2. That said, 20 0z/ft^2 is strong enough. You can have 2 layers of 10 oz cloth, but 3 layers os 6oz is better, and you're in for a treat is you laminate 4 layers of 5oz cloth.
If you are going to use all cloth, use epoxy. If you are cheap and go with all polyester, you need to use matt to hold the resin, and a layer of cloth to finish. Note: You want the cloth layer on the outside of the laminate, next to your body, so you don't risk spinters.
It is best to swatch practice laminating for desired thickness/weight, and go with what feels best.
Fiberglass comes by oz/ft^2. That said, 20 0z/ft^2 is strong enough. You can have 2 layers of 10 oz cloth, but 3 layers os 6oz is better, and you're in for a treat is you laminate 4 layers of 5oz cloth.
If you are going to use all cloth, use epoxy. If you are cheap and go with all polyester, you need to use matt to hold the resin, and a layer of cloth to finish. Note: You want the cloth layer on the outside of the laminate, next to your body, so you don't risk spinters.
It is best to swatch practice laminating for desired thickness/weight, and go with what feels best.
Egon Spengler
Master Member
Thanks guys. I've just been using normal fiberglass mat and resin. It's turning out pretty well so far. Here's a pic!
I honestly don't know exactly how many layers are on this yet. In some places there may be 4? I honestly didn't keep track to well.
I honestly don't know exactly how many layers are on this yet. In some places there may be 4? I honestly didn't keep track to well.
Danaedhel
Active Member
I usually put one layer of gel coat and 2 of resin with 300 gr/m2 fiberglass, just in the case you have a mold.
In your case, without a mold, I think two or three layers will be enough. I maybe put a just-resin-with-charge (and catalyst) last layer to hide the texture of the fiberglass. My two cents
In your case, without a mold, I think two or three layers will be enough. I maybe put a just-resin-with-charge (and catalyst) last layer to hide the texture of the fiberglass. My two cents
Egon Spengler
Master Member
Ah, that will smooth it out nicely huh? The resin and only catalyst? What do you mean resin with charge though? Thanks!
Danaedhel
Active Member
A charge is something you put to the resin to make it stronger. Usually is a mineral powder o butched fiberglass (don't know if it's the correct name for fiberglass separated in 'fibers'). The charge I usually use is (in spanish) 'carbonato calcico'. Use it 50-50 in weight mixed with the resin.
Hope it helps!
PD: Sorry about language; spanish guy!
Zaxmon
Well-Known Member
@Danaedhel In English we normally use the term "filler" instead of charge.
@Egon Spengler Search online for fiberglass fillers for more info but most people around here are familiar with fillers like milled glass fibers, micro glass bubbles, calcium carbonate (carbonato calcico), etc.
I get mine at FreemanSupply.com - Mold Making, Casting Resin, & Foundry Materials
Pilot
Sr Member
Part of laying up fiberglass and getting maximum strength is to use the right amount of resin. Very often I see people just glop on as much resin as they can, and while that certainly makes for a heavier part, it doesn't necessarily make it stronger.
Ideally, you want to apply just enough resin to completely wet the glass cloth, but not so much that the resin forms a smooth coat. This is hard to describe without pictures...but when all is said and done, you should still be able to feel (when dry, of course!) the texture of the glass cloth. It takes some practice, and is a little harder to do with some of the intricate shapes found in costume armor, but it really does make a difference in the strength, flexibility and overall weight of the finished piece.
Ideally, you want to apply just enough resin to completely wet the glass cloth, but not so much that the resin forms a smooth coat. This is hard to describe without pictures...but when all is said and done, you should still be able to feel (when dry, of course!) the texture of the glass cloth. It takes some practice, and is a little harder to do with some of the intricate shapes found in costume armor, but it really does make a difference in the strength, flexibility and overall weight of the finished piece.
SaberFreak
Sr Member
I find one layer is more than enough, if you tear up the fiber and let the edges overlap.
Note: the fiber cloth I'm using is around 3-5mm thick
Note: the fiber cloth I'm using is around 3-5mm thick
DarthVeach
Well-Known Member
assimilate
New Member
i usually use about 2 layers of matting with a good thick coating of resin on the outside
Zaxmon
Well-Known Member
I contacted them once and they didn't have what I wanted at the time (Foam FLex 17) but I didn't think to contact them about fiberglass supply. I'll look into it.
CustomPropSculptorGuy
Well-Known Member
I can get you some Flex Foam17 - it's greaaat stuff.
But for fiberglassing, I use bondo glass... Take some bondo filler, mix it with the fiberglass resin til it's like a syrup, and then use the bondo hardener cure the mixture. great strength, lighter weight, picks up detail for the foam-latex molds- just gotta make damn sure you're wearing a respirator LoL
But for fiberglassing, I use bondo glass... Take some bondo filler, mix it with the fiberglass resin til it's like a syrup, and then use the bondo hardener cure the mixture. great strength, lighter weight, picks up detail for the foam-latex molds- just gotta make damn sure you're wearing a respirator LoL
Pilot
Sr Member
^^ That stuff is affectionately referred to as "Rondo" in the Pepakura-into-costume circles. It really is a great mixture, and I've actually taken to using a variation of it when I do composite repairs on aircraft interior panels at work. So much easier to spread than straight filler!
110% agreement on the respirator - should wear one when working with ANY polyester, isocyanate (like Smooth-On resins) or strong epoxy product anyway.
110% agreement on the respirator - should wear one when working with ANY polyester, isocyanate (like Smooth-On resins) or strong epoxy product anyway.
