My Anakin ROTS Lightsaber

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by Primrodo, Feb 6, 2006.

  1. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Back in the Fall I started working with a machinist to have a Anakin ROTS saber made, I won't go into a long story but it was pretty exciting.

    What was decided was to go after the version that was on display at Celebration III, with some idealization and no cracks of course.

    There was a few details that we liked on the C3 saber that made it pretty unique and we wanted to capture it.

    Some of the things we idealized was the grips being more black than the purpley look the grips at C3 had, as well as the emitter peg being brass and more flush...The C3 saber was more of a bolted in part.

    I will leave alot of the details and the specs to the creator if he wants to chime in.

    This is a work of art that I cannot wait to get, and it goes along way showing how well a project can come with people work together. The machinist never changed or made a change without first consulting me, nor did he force any design changes on me. It was a refreshing situation since the last machinist I worked with.

    Now I know you all are eager for the photos and I hope you all are just as blown away as I am.

    [​IMG]
    High Res: http://www.petridish.net/pics/24168/100_2120.jpg

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    High Res: http://www.petridish.net/pics/24168/100_2121.jpg

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    High Res: http://www.petridish.net/pics/24168/100_2122.jpg

    [​IMG]
    High Res: http://www.petridish.net/pics/24168/100_2123.jpg

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    High Res: http://www.petridish.net/pics/24168/100_2124.jpg

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    High Res: http://www.petridish.net/pics/24168/100_2125.jpg
     
  2. LogansRunner

    LogansRunner Well-Known Member

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    Very sweet, glad to see its finally completed.
     
  3. darthig88

    darthig88 Well-Known Member

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    Work of art my friend work of art...................................
     
  4. Reel Fakes

    Reel Fakes Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :eek Gorgeous.

    Congrats.
    -Chris
     
  5. jrschmd

    jrschmd New Member

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    Amazing. Great attention to detail. :D
     
  6. B-Wing

    B-Wing New Member

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    That looks fantastic. :thumbsup Thanks for sharing the pics.
     
  7. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    Really Nice. Great Job..

    FB
     
  8. sandollor

    sandollor New Member

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    Okay stop messing around and PM me this guys email, I want one. :love
     
  9. Crimsonnaire

    Crimsonnaire Well-Known Member

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    Flawless. This piece is just amazing. Congratulations.

    How did you finalize the dimensions for this saber? Did you scale pics from C3 or use the MR as reference?

    [image]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/Imperious825/anakinROTSandMR.jpg[/image]
    [image]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y265/Imperious825/Swords%20of%20The%20Civilized%20Age/1368.jpg[/image]
    I have the MR Anakin ROTS, and just from looking at pictures of yours, I can tell you that you have everything that the MR version offers.
     
  10. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    Nice. There hasn't been a lot of homemade stuff from AOTC or ROTS. Refreshing to see some old fashioned fan-made goodness.
     
  11. Boba Frett

    Boba Frett Sr Member

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    Nice work :thumbsup :thumbsup
     
  12. MikeyX

    MikeyX Well-Known Member

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    Very cool - that is one very well machined saber by the looks of it. :D

    One comment - isn't the covertec clip in slightly the wrong position? I thought the MR one was correct - i.e. where the clip is exactly opposite to the control box, rather than turned around a bit. Maybe it's just the pics, or my failing memory :)
     
  13. lesternessman

    lesternessman Well-Known Member

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    That's pretty cool.
     
  14. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Hey guys.

    Thanks for all the compliments.. It is definatly a beauty and the love and time put into it definatly shows :)

    sanddollar, as far as I know this is the only one of its kind, the machinist had such a FUN (aka aggrevating) time with some of the details that he said h never wants to make another :)

    Imperious, he actually scaled the C3 saber, and we actually found it was shorter than the MR LE saber, not by much, I think my saber measures 11" long in total, the MR is slightly longer, you have it right? Whats the MR's length?. Width wise its similar and everything else most likly lines up. He was going strictly by the C3 pictures for dimention :)

    Thank you for your compliments :)

    MikeyX, actually the C3 saber had the covertec in a completely differnt area and was not as lined up as MR's version. This is one of teh few differences that made the saber pretty unique and one of the things I really wanted :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thank you everyone for your compliments. I am glad you all like it as much...wll maybe not AS much as I do...but even so :)

    Saturday I should have it in hand and will post a picture from my belt :)
     
  15. acerocket

    acerocket Well-Known Member

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    First off, I'd like to thank Primrodo for giving me the opportunity to make this saber. As he said, it was at times rather frustrating, but I used it as a valuable experience to learn my potential as a 'garage' machinist and the abilities of my machines. That being said, your kind words of praise toward Primrodo let me know that I did a good job on this saber.

    Here are some specs on this saber.
    Primrodo supplied me with several pics of the saber as seen at C3 and I scaled off of these basing it on a 1 3/8" od on the main body. I used an MR LE I personally own to fill out any details not clear enough to be determined from the pictures. Some of the differences between the MR and the C3 saber are the overall length, grip and covertech knob placement, activation circuit, detail on endcap, and shape of grips. Overall it has a polished finsh on the exposed aluminum, brass and copper pieces, as well as 3 black anodized pieces. Weight wise, it tops the scales at a lean 1 1/2 pounds, almost half the weight of my MR LE.

    It consists of 47 seperate pieces: 15 machined aluminun, 6 machined brass, 2 machined copper, 6 machined Delrin, 4 borrowed parts, 1 custom made piece from a seperate jobber, and 13 pieces of hardware. Total time invested on this project exceed 250 man hours.

    With the exception of the activation circuit card, red button bezel, spring, cup, and retaining ring all the other parts were machined. The 13 pieces of hardware include the variuos threaded rod, nuts and screws needed to hold everything together.

    I did all my own polishing and anodized the 3 pieces myself (unfortunately, I was continualy having problems maintaining a polished clear finish after anodizing so this was abandoned in favor of just polishing the aluminum).

    The activation circuit was based on the artwork present on the C3 saber and not the MR artwork. I originally had planned to etch this myself but was unable to satisfactorry results and ended up relying on a secondary source to get it made. I then cut the piece to fit and mounted it.

    I could go on all day about how it was made but I will leave that alone unless anybody is really interested in the entire sage of it's construction. Just to make sure this saber maintains it's personality, I have promised Primrodo that this will be a very special saber as I have no plans to make another like it. Kind of like a SUPER-elite edition.
     
  16. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That one is definitely droolworthy. :thumbsup

    I take it, it is also significantly lighter than MR's.
     
  17. ob1al

    ob1al Sr Member

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    Beautiful saber - amazing work acerocket.

    A very fine piece for your collection Primrodo. :thumbsup
     
  18. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    I could go on all day about how it was made but I will leave that alone unless anybody is really interested in the entire sage of it's construction. Just to make sure this saber maintains it's personality, I have promised Primrodo that this will be a very special saber as I have no plans to make another like it. Kind of like a SUPER-elite edition.
    [snapback]1178085[/snapback]​
    [/quote]


    Actually, as someone who is hoping to start a little hobby machining, I would think the entire saga of its construction would be fascinating. Anyone else with me?
     
  19. Prop Runner

    Prop Runner Sr Member

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    Very nice work, made by a very nice guy too. :)

    Gets the

    [​IMG]

    - Gabe
     
  20. OldKen

    OldKen Master Member

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    uhh... yeah...

    thats pretty much what is seen in the movie.

    :thumbsup :thumbsup

    beautiful, id love to have one as well. :(

    too bad he didnt record all his work etc. to where machining another wouldnt be as time consuming... :(
     
  21. acerocket

    acerocket Well-Known Member

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    Who said I didn't keep a record of what I did? I have a stack of hand scribbled notes, well worn and marked up pictures, and autocad drawings of this saber in my toolbox. I even have a spare set of bunny ears (albiet really crappy looking), 2 extra activation circuit cards, a handful of screws and nuts, and somewhere in my front lawn is a brass button (launched by the buffer never to be found). Yes, this saber did consume a large amount of my time, and machining a second one would definitely be less time consuming, but I don't want to do another one like this right now.

    When I get some time later, I will try and write up a more detailed description of all the work involved for those who are interested.
     
  22. James Kenobi 1138

    James Kenobi 1138 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That is one amazing looking Saber . Awesome to see a handmade piece of beauty like that. Outstanding job.

    Primrodo, you must be in heaven right now.......
     
  23. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Not quite James, almost though...Saturday...THEN I will be in heaven as I cradle her in my hands lol. :)

    I am super excited though, and the fantastic photography realllly helps :)
     
  24. Sporak

    Sporak Sr Member Gone but not forgotten.

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    Now THATS the one you've been waiting for...and I say it was worth the wait ;)
    I see you mentioned a spring...does it have any moving parts?
    My guess...the emitter center.

    Beautiful...
     
  25. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Oh heck yes Sporak :) Its been a long wait, bt you know, sometimes waiting an extra bit will help make you appreciate someones time and effort more, and Ace put more than his fair share into this

    As for moving parts, as far as I know the copper button is actually a button ;)
     
  26. acerocket

    acerocket Well-Known Member

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    Well for those who are interested in the whole story of the making of this saber, here you go.

    I was originally contacted by Primrodo in mid-April of last year looking to get a set of buckles made for an Anakin ROTS glove (see this thread about the latest on these: buckle thread). We exchanged emails and IM's for a while and we started asking about getting some sabers made (the Anakin, a few stunts, and a few custom ones). Because it would take forever to make all the sabers he wanted, I asked Primrodo to pick the ones he wanted most and I would try to do those. Primrodo first thought about just having the two stunt sabers done, but finally decided he wanted the Anakin more. In July we started discussing the differences between the C3 saber and the MR and he emailed me pictures of the C3 saber for reference. Using an MR LE saber I purchased for myself and with the pictures as reference, we decided on all the details that this saber would have. Finally, on August 24th I started the first pieces.

    I began by cutting 3 pieces of 1 1/2" od 6061 aluminum solid round stock: an 8" piece for the upper s-curve section, an 8" piece for the lower grip section, and a 4" piece for the knurled section. Both ends of each piece were trued, pilot drilled, and then turned to an actual od of 1 1/2".

    Starting with the lower grip section in the lathe, I drilled the hole for the threaded rod, turned it down to a "T" profile (1.5" od at the 'clamp' and 1.375" od for the rest), cut to length, drilled the hole for the endcap screw and machined the small step inside the endcap. I changed to my mill and rotary table and drilled the hole for the activation box screw and covertech knob. Then I used a small ball end bit and made the two grooves in the endcap. All holes were tapped the correct size and the lower section was completed.

    Taking the piece for the knurled section I used the mill and rotary table to cut a series of 90 degree grooves both axially and radially on the piece to get the heavy knurled pattern. Back the the lathe and a 3/8" hole was drilled through and the piece was cut to size finishing the knurled section.

    For the upper s-curve piece, it was first through drilled for a 3/8" hole and then drilled with a 1.25" diameter hole 5" deep. This piece was also tuned to a "T" profile so the bottom of the 1.25" hole was even with the step in the outer diameters, and then cut to length. Switching back to the mill and rotary table, and using a template made from the scaled C3 pics and the MR LE, I drilled the holes for the bunny ears screws, copper button bezel, copper eye bezel, screw for holding the emitter base, recharge ports, and activation box screws. A second template was made to cut the s-curve and this was done using a dremel tool with a cut-off disc. After an hour or so of final sanding on the dremeled cut, the upper s-curve piece was finished. To attach the three pieces together, I needed to make a cone shape washer to drop in the upper section to fit snug against the drilled end of the hole and leave a flat surface for the nut. This was accomplished on the lathe by turning a piece of aluminum to just under 1.25" and through drilling a 3/8" hole. It was then bevel faced and cut to length.

    A piece of 3/8" all thread rod was cut the correct length and the three pieces were assembled and the basic shape of the saber was achieved.

    Now came all the little details that make the saber. I started with the emitter base. A piece of 1 1/2" od aluminum was was turned to just under 1.25" od and the step at the top was also turned to the correct od. the emitter end was drilled and tapped for the emitter tip screw and the base was drilled to clear the 3/8" rod and nut. The piece was cut to length and then put in the rotary table to mill the recharge port recesses, drill the holes for the brass pins, drill the holes for the brass button and copper eye attachment screws, drill the hole for the attachment screw, and mill a flat seat on each side for the brass button bezel and copper eye bezel to sit. All the holes were then tapped the correct size and the emitter base was finished.

    The control box was entirely machined with the mill from a piece of 1" square stock. It was milled to the correct dimensions and a 1.5" ball end mill was used to cut the rounded groove on the bottom. A slot was milled in the top, three holes were drilled (one was threaded) and a slot was milled for the brass button. Once finished, it was attached to the saber. A piece of brass stock was then milled to the correct dimensions with a small tab to slip inside the activation box. All the shape of the brass button was done with a dremel tool. A small standoff for the activation circuit was also milled to fit inside the activation circuit and a hole was drilled for recessing the attachment screw. Both of these pieces were then assembled to the activation box.

    The emitter ring itself (also of aluminum) required a lot of lathe and mill work to get it to an good idea of what the C3 saber has. I had no good view of the inside of the emitter so I approximated what the MR had as a substitute using the scaled dimension I had from the C3 pics. Like wise, I used the lathe to produce an idealized emitter tip from brass based on what the MR has inside. Using a small screw with the head trimmed off, the emitter tip and ring were then screwed on to the emitter base.

    The brass pins were then lathe cut from brass rod stock to give a reasonable facsimile of what the pins in the C3 pics look like (because I can not determine the exact shape from the photos, a little liberty was taken in their profile). These were then screwed into the emitter base.

    The covertech knob was then lathe cut from aluminum using a cutoff blade with a small standoff integrally machined on the bottom so it will sit above the grips. The hole and recess were dome on the mill and it was attached to the saber.

    A piece of copper stock was turned to the shape of the copper eye and it was threaded to fit the emitter base. An aluminum bezel was lathe turned as was a spacer ring to get the copper eye to sit flush in the bezel. These were then attached.

    An aluminum bezel was lathe turned and threaded to accept the red button bezel. A small threaded slug was also also machined to allow the bezel to be screwd to the emitter base. It was a piece of round stock turned the correct diameter, threaded, drilled through and cut to length. A piece of copper stock was turned to the shape of the red button and a small aluminum washer was made to get the copper button to sit in the desired position. The copper button replaced the red button and the whole assembly was screwed to the saber.

    The bunny ears were then milled from a piece of 1" square solid stock. The basic shape was milled, the radius curve was milled, the holes were drilled and tapped, and it was cut to length. Then a dremel tool was used to give the small details the desired shape. The emitter ring was removed and the ears were screwed on.

    Finally, the six grips were milled from black delrin 1/2" square stock. All the angles were cut and the groove was milled on the bottom. They were cut to length ready to be finished.

    The saber was then disassembled and all parts were final sanded, and polished.

    I was originally planning to chemically etch and darken the activation circuit card from brass sheet stock, but was unable to obtain satisfactory results so I resorted to a third party trophy engrave who helped me. Once I got these they were trimmed to size test fit.

    I was also planning on anodizing the saber. I did finally manage to get acceptable results on the 3 black anodized pieces (after 4 attempts of anodizing, stripping. repolishing, and retrying). But I was not able to get satisfactory results in keeping the clear anodizing to maintain a polished appearance. It was decided to just leave the polished pieces un-anodized but highly polished.

    The saber was then reassembled, the six grips attached, and the activation circuit attached. After a final polishing, the pics posted earlier were taken and it was wrapped up and mailed.

    Sounds simple enough I guess. But during the 24 weeks it took to machine this saber, I was beset with problems with my machine, personal issues, work related issues, and acts of God that all threatened to end this project. Throughout it all, Primrodo was very understanding and gave me the time I needed to take care of my problems and finish his saber. I must say he was a very nice person to work with. We have spoken may times through emails and IM's and I really can't thank him enough for sticking with me through the bad times I encountered on this project. His reassurances that I was doing a good job made it easier to tackle the negatives and keep pushing through with my work. I believe his patience with me will be rewarded with a saber he will be proud of.
     
  27. cayman shen

    cayman shen Master Member

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    Now that's a good read. Thanks.
     
  28. WebChief

    WebChief Sr Member

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    GORGEOUS
     
  29. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    thanks for posting that Ace..I know I will be proud of the saber :)
     
  30. Crimsonnaire

    Crimsonnaire Well-Known Member

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    I just measured my MR Anakin with a digital caliper and consistently received 11.12+ in. I measured it with the saber in the plastic bag that came with it to prevent abbrasion from the stainless steel caliper. Being that the saber was measured under the layer of plastic, I think it's safe to say that the saber is approximately 11.12".

    How long is your replica?

    Just out of curiosity, was the damaged emitter section of the prop accounted for when the shortless was revealed after scaling? The entire emitter seemed to be pushed down a bit when I looked closely at the prop during C3. Perhaps this is why it's shorter?
     
  31. acerocket

    acerocket Well-Known Member

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    The bend in the tip of the s-curve was accounted for in the dimensioning. I cannot say that the dimensions I arrived at are 100% exact, some liberties were taken due to the source media I had, but I feel confident the overall dimensions are extremely close. I scaled in both metric and imperial and found that decimal imperial was the best choice. Most dimensions ended up at nice round decimals such as 4.5", .5", 2", 1", .75", etc. From the pics, the overall length was 10.89" if I remember correctly, so assuming the original maker used round numbers, I assumed an overall lenght of 11". Of interesting note, the MR is a bit longer in the grip area, and shorter in the s-curve than the C3 prop. I can't remember off hand hand the exact amount but I have it somewhere outside I think. Also, a few other details were slightly different between the two. We all know the MR is supposedly made off a real prop, but it is not necessarily this one. This is why there may be small differences. I am not going to say I made an 'exact' copy of the C3 saber, but it is close enough that Primrodo is quite happy with the results.
     
  32. Crimsonnaire

    Crimsonnaire Well-Known Member

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    What form of measurement would an imperial be?

    I've been working on a project that had me scaling a picture, and like your case, many measurements came out to a whole number, and I feel comfortable everytime I arrive at one because I know that the prop maker probably intended to make a certain part in a particular whole number. However, I got a little nervous when I arrived at measurements going somewhere in between whole numbers because I thought that my scaling might be in error. But then I realized that there will have to be fractions here and there because the prop maker has to choose a single point of reference for distancing certain parts.

    Wow. I'm surprised to hear of such inconsistencies. I know that the MR saber was prototyped from the hero, and that the saber displayed at C3 was a rubber stunt, but that shouldn't account for the proportional differences. Even if there are multiple heroes, they should all have the same dimensions. I guess this is where quality over quantity towers over quantity over quality.

    This rubber stunt is shown on Anakin's belt in the 'kiss picture,' so that kind of makes this saber a hero. As a result, I think it was a good choice in following the rarer version to replicate, and I think you did an unbelievable job at that. I approve of your replica in accuracy, and being the nitpicker that I am, you can rest assured that you did an outstanding job when you hear this from me.
     
  33. acerocket

    acerocket Well-Known Member

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    Imperial is the American system (12 inches to a foot, etc). Called Imperial because it used to be the standard measurement units the world used when the British empired ruled everything.

    I don't think the saber at C3 was a rubber saber. From what I can see in the pics, it looks metal. The dent at the end, the bend at the knurled clamp, the cracks in the chrome that look brass colored underneath and from what Ihave been told lead me to believe it is a metal version. But I have never seen the C3 saber in person so I can't positively say one way or the other.

    As far as inconsistencies,, I wouldn't rule out MR making things different (on purpose or on accident). I have heard other people talking about other MR sabers and how they didn't get some of the details right. Case in point, why do the activation strips look so different on both the Obi Wan and Anakin MR sabers as what is seen on the hero props?

    Oh, and as far as being a nitpicker, you have no idea. Primrodo is one heck of an accuracy freak and I had to be extra diligent to make sure I could come as close as possible to every detail to make him happy. He demands nothing but the best, and I take pride in my work and I don't settle for crap either. There were even times when I showed him progress pics and he was satisfied with the work, but I wasn't and redid the piece to make it better.
     
  34. Crimsonnaire

    Crimsonnaire Well-Known Member

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    Believe me when I tell you that it's no more easy to tell any difference when it's in front of you than looking at pictures. :lol I stared at that thing for quite a few minutes and couldn't rule out either. The only conclusion I was able to make is that if the saber is machined brass, it had to have suffered an extremely hard impact for the emitter to have bent like that.

    Because of circumstances surrounding the damaged emitter, I accepted the official explanation given by an MR representative at C3, inside the prop room. The explanation given was that the saber displayed was a rubber stunt. The brass color in the cracks of the chrome is actually a layer of copper electrolyte that prepared the saber for its final stage in chrome plating. This explanation fits perfectly with the nature of the damage. Being that rubber is the foundation of the main body, the hilt is capable of bending, but once it does, the layer of copper and chrome holds the bent shape.

    It was explained by this same representative that the circuit board pattern is different simply because of the fact that it's a stunt and not a hero, which is what MR based their saber on.

    As for the inconsistencies of some of the other sabers, the same basic idea is used to explain them--MR was given only one out of several heroes, and therefore, any differences are attributed by the hero being similarly different from the other heroes that are compared to their replicas.
     
  35. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    I got the saber. :)

    The second I got it I must say I fell in love with it. The heft, the quality and the beauty of it is just...undescribable.

    I took some pictures here on some black satin as well as on my costume as it is now: http://www.petridish.net/albumview.asp?a=24168

    This is hands down the best saber I have owned and seen of this kind :)

    Thank you Acerocket..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  36. acerocket

    acerocket Well-Known Member

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    Glad you 'love' it. I am quite happy with how it turned out and now I know you are too. Now, how about some pics of it with a photoshopped blade added to make it look truly like the movie saber?
     
  37. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Just wait till the new tunics are made ;)
     
  38. Al May

    Al May Well-Known Member

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    A true thing of beauty,you must be over the moon.
     
  39. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Just bumping for posterity.

    [​IMG]
     
  40. nwjedidave

    nwjedidave Sr Member

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    *waves Jedi hand*

    Justin -- you will give me your 'saber
     
  41. franz bolo

    franz bolo Sr Member

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    Looks Great..

    FB
     
  42. Primrodo

    Primrodo Sr Member

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    Thanks. I wanted to be sure more people saw this. :)
     
  43. Duck9000

    Duck9000 Well-Known Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(Primrodo @ Oct 11 2006, 05:22 PM) [snapback]1336117[/snapback]</div>
    I didn't see it before, thanks. :D

    BTW, Awesome job :thumbsup
     
  44. TheDisturbance

    TheDisturbance Well-Known Member

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    <div class='quotetop'>(Duck9000 @ Oct 11 2006, 02:26 PM) [snapback]1336301[/snapback]</div>
    I didn't see it before, thanks. :D

    BTW, Awesome job :thumbsup
    [/b][/quote]

    Yeah Acerocket awesome work.

    Mark
     
  45. hydin

    hydin Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    * thats shiny.....

    very nice work.
    chris
     

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