Making the key to MUTHUR: an Alien prop story

Mike Rush

Well-Known Member
In Ridley Scott's Alien, when the characters of Dallas and Ripley need to consult the computer (whom they call 'Mother'), they go through a complex series of security procedures to gain access. One of these involves unlocking a box by pressing buttons in sequence, and removing a key.

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After the film was made, possession of many props - including the key and its box - passed to Mr Bob Burns in California. Bob is a well-known and much-loved custodian of film props, famous for his generous attitude of allowing people access to his collection.

Unfortunately one visitor to his home took advantage of his generosity by helping themselves to the original key. By the time Bob realised, the box was empty; the key had been stolen.

Sadly Bob has no photographs of his key. The only images available are of this key, sold at Propstore some years ago. (Bob does not think it is the stolen key.)

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As you can see it is quite futuristic, even bizarre, and looks rather hard to duplicate!

In 2009 stephen210 visited Bob's home. He returned with several photos of the box plus measurements, reasoning that this would help anyone who wanted to try and build a replica.

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I began working on the dimensions, first in Sketchup...

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... and later as a foamex prototype.

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As the box was being made I could also extrapolate some 'best-guess' dimensions for the key itself. I knew I could never build one but I thought perhaps a solid version to display in the box would be nice.

At first I tried 'correcting out' the perspective from the Propstore photos. This got me close, and also let me see some of the contents flat on - albeit as if underwater!

At that point however, Harry Harris turned up an old photo of the same key. The photo was quite old and blurred, but it gave me something new: a clear profile.

Key7.jpg


This allowed me to draw up a reasonably accurate key plan for the first time. I was then able to make a rough 'dummy' version, for test-fitting etc. I jigsawed the shape from foamex and added real half-round dowel for the handles.

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At this point the only way to gauge the size was to work backwards from the known dimensions of the box. I posed for a snapshot to see whether I was even in the 'ballpark'.

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It looked okay.

By now the idea had been put to me of actually trying to make a reproduction key which could be sent to Bob Burns to replace his missing one. It's the kind of idea that sounds impossible at first, but the more you think about it the harder it is shake it off.

I knew that if I did end up making one for Bob, it had to fit perfectly. There was no point going to all that trouble on estimated measurements, only to have it not fit in the real box. So with stephen210's help I sent one of my dummy keys to Bob. Before I knew it, Bob had sent me a photo of my mockup in the real box. (This was quite an honour in itself!)

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This showed me that I had the shape and size not quite right, but close. From the photo and Bob's comment that he remembered it as being larger, I made two further mockups: one 5% larger, and one 10% larger.

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Once again I posted them off to Bob and waited. Soon I received photographs.

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These showed that the 5% was still not quite big enough, while the 10% was a touch too large. I chose to make my final plans 8% larger than my first.
 
Exactly how I was going to attempt this replica was still a mystery. I began researching clear resins... but I knew I would first need a master from which to make a mould. I contacted another board member with CNC capability and sent him this:

mould.png


He offered to make the master as shown at lower right on a CNC mill. The problems were that he lived in a different country and was quite busy, so I had to be patient.

Around this time I was contacted by another board member, 8th_passenger (Colin), who not only lived in the same county as I do, but is also a professional modelmaker! He also said he could make the master for me, using a laser cutter.

Having made sure that the first person didn't mind if I changed tack (he didn't), I gladly took Colin up on his offer. I provided him with my outline drawing and he went to work.

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The thickness of the key meant that a single cut piece was impractical. Apparently the thicker the material, the more the laser beam gets diffused, leading to a sloped edge. Colin's solution to this was to cut two identical 'slices' from MDF, half the required thickness.

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These were then glued together with the slopes toward the middle. The resulting 'V' was filled and sanded all the way around.

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The whole thing was then sanded, primed, sanded again... until it became this:

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Colin built a box and poured an RTV mould. He did all of this much more neatly than I ever could have.

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Soon the mould was ready.

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Up to this point the plan had been for Colin to make the mould and let me cast the key. However it soon became clear that I was under-equipped. Colin poured a quick test using Smooth-On clear resin which he de-gassed first in a vacuum chamber.

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It looked amazing!

He also poured another test, this time without degassing (which is how I would be doing it).

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This showed me that without a vacuum chamber I had no hope of making a clear key. It was obvious that Colin was going to have to be the one to make it for me. I was disappointed and sorry to have to 'release control' of the project to someone else, but I knew it was the only way to get the best results.
 
At least one part of this project was relatively easy: board member jtparker pointed out that the four red items at the end of the key are just commercial magnets - and better yet pointed me to a website that sells them! I ordered some straight away.

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That was one less thing to worry about.

But before the key could be cast, we had to find the parts that go inside it! They are literally cast into the resin. It appears to be a strange mixture of metal bits and electronic components - probably whatever the prop maker had lying around at the time! Using my earlier, 'swivelled', versions of the Propstore photos, I began the detective work. Here is a diagram I made to try and keep track of progress.

Key6.jpg


Sadly... there was not much progress made. Although some of the parts were readily identifiable as capacitors or transistors, locating exact duplicates proved extremely tricky. Most of them cannot be bought from catalogues as they have been superseded by more modern, streamlined versions. I even resorted to trawling local boot sales and junk shops, looking for old radios which I could scavenge for parts.

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Incredibly, I did identify a part one day while reading the RPF. In a thread about a life-size Landspeeder build I noticed this photograph:

Speeder.jpg


- the parts I highlighted green appear to be an exact match for the round item in the centre of the key! From this thread I learned what they were: sockets for vacuum tubes (as used in old amplifiers etc). More searching ensued, but alas I never did find a correct one.

A fair amount of the space inside the key is taken up with little shaped metal strips. Yet again, I was unable to identify any of these. The suggestion was made that if we couldn't find them we could make our own - that is, have them made by a company that specialises in etched metal. This sounded like a joke at first, as we didn't even have a clear view of how they should look.

I sat down and started the daunting task of drawing up the contents of the key, concentrating on the metal strips. To my surprise it went quite quickly, as once I had established the shape of one strip I could see it repeated elsewhere in the key. Eventually I had a satisfactory drawing of the complete inner layout.

I made an 'inventory' of the metal parts required and drew up a vector silhouette as required by the etching company.

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The red parts represent sprue, and would be 'half-etched' into the metal. (The hard part was laying all the pieces out to make the best use of the space and save costs.)

I sent two artworks off to the company. Some parts would be brass, and some nickel-silver. A week or two later I had the results in my hand.

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For the electronic parts it was decided to compromise and use what we had available to us. While they may not match 100%, at least they were in the 'spirit' of the original - and with everything else going on in the key, we hoped nobody would notice too much.

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That left various mysterious plastic pieces (including the socket). Colin suggested that we cut these on the laser again, so I drew up plans and handed them over.

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Colin then handed them back to me for painting and finishing. The parts were painted and some had wires inserted.

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For the square red item we could see that the original had a round label, but the printing was unclear. So I drew up a completely 'invented' label which would look similar from a distance, and included our initials.

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Now that all the parts were to hand, Colin was ready to commence the daunting task of casting the key.

I could see from the original that the parts had been laid into the mould and resin poured over them in one operation. This means that some of the parts are touching the sides, and also have trapped air bubbles under them. We thought we could improve on that.

In this picture Colin has poured a thin layer of clear resin, which is being allowed to set. (Notice the etched parts all ready to go, plus my 'map' of where to put them.)

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Next, Colin carefully placed the etched metal onto the set layer.

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More resin was added, more parts, and finally more resin until the mould was full.

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Once fully cured, the key was at last demoulded.

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The top of the key was fairly flat, but had the inevitable meniscus around the edges. Therefore Colin milled the top off nice and flat (this thickness had already been accounted for).

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Then sanded and buffed the surface even flatter.

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He also made a jig to hold the key vertical while he drilled the holes for the four magnets.

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The same jig was used while tapping the holes.

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Although I had sourced the correct dowels, Colin correctly pointed out that plastic would adhere to the key better than wood. He made a mould of the real dowel pieces:

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And poured a set of handle pieces in resin.

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He stuck them to the key...

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... added filler to match the original, then masked and primed the handle.

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Colin made little brass spacers for the magnets, which would keep the screws centred and everything lined up.

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Finally the magnets were screwed on. (Colin even went so far as to match the orientation of each magnet from the original!)

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We almost had the key ready before Christmas, but no matter where we looked we could not find a shade of green paint to match the photographs. In the end Colin mixed up his own green and used an airbrush to paint the handles.

And so... the key was finally ready. It had proved a real team effort, with me doing the drawings and Colin doing the actual hard work! But we thought it had been worth it.

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We made sure that, apart from the subtle differences we couldn't help, there are a few deliberate 'tells' so that this can never be misrepresented as, or mistaken for, an original. Better yet, the tells are encased in clear resin so would be very hard to obfuscate!

I wrapped the key - very carefully - and posted it off to Bob in America. (Insured.) We had not told Bob we were doing this, although he may have had an inkling that something was going on. I waited nervously as it seems the post has been rather unreliable lately. Finally this weekend I received news that it had arrived.

Yesterday I received an email from Bob Burns himself, telling me that the key fits like a glove and "looks just like the original". He was very grateful and I think quite touched.

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I want to publicly thank Colin, Steve, and everyone else who helped out along the way. This project took a long time but we feel it has been worth it. Knowing that Bob has a (replica) key back where it should be in his collection, is very satisfying indeed.

I hope you like it too.
 
OMG!!! This thread needs to be archived! :thumbsup
You guys are the true embodiment of the RPF.
Now I want one! :cry
 
Amazing work and dedication to detail!

And I thought the motion tracker was tough :confused
 
Fantastic guys!

That was a very nice thing to do. I am shocked and saddened that some ******* stole the real one from Bob.

What a great build.
 
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Fascinating read, and yes I do agree, this should be archived as it's a brilliant resource. I do have one small idea, which now is a bit late, but part "C" looks like a modded 6 block of LEGO with a couple of wires added and some paint for decoration.
 
Fantastic! Been following this over on the 'Summit for a while.
Glad to hear it got to Bob OK. The pics of it in the original box are awesome!
 
What a gorgeous build!

Saw one of the production made keys go up for auction late last year at Bonhams. Went for £5040 in the end, came from one of the guys who started up Alien War back in London.

Congratulations again!

Here is the Bonhams auction catalogue page.

Lot Details
 
Really amazing looking replica, and approval from Bob is all the better! (y)thumbsup

If you plan on doing another one in the future I can tell you what a couple of the other components are.

(From your labeled image)

B: These are spacers/insulators for micro switches.
C: Mica capacitors, the colors indicate the value of capacitance. (see pic below)
D: The red and blue-green components are trimmer pots or variable resistors. The two silver holes are for mounting to a circuit board.

a29392mica_capacitorf103.jpg
 
This is a fantastic thread.

I know Colin and know what a huge fan he is of the original alien film. He must have gained a great amount of enjoyment from this build.

Congratulations to all involved.
 
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