LIGHTSABER - GRAFLEX - LUKE ESB - Grips - Broken T-Strip in ESB Promo Photo

[Patlegrand]

Hello !

I'm very interested by this thread as i'm looking for a folmer bottom, with thoses pictures, a folmer bottom with #Pat is accurate ?

Regards,
Patlegrand.

 

[Ridire Firean]

Well, there you go... definitely plastic T-strip...







As far as the Bubble Strip goes, definitely in it, and not pinched by it. Think about it, every time that lever got flicked open accidentally, if it was just pinched in there, PEW! off like a bullet! Now, if it was down in it, sure it might slide out, but at least you have a chance of keeping it in place before you notice that the clamp is loose.

veektohr, you're naughty. But, that''s probably how he ended up with the scarlet left arm in Episode VII.

As far as the lever not being fully seated goes, I bet they just had it screwed in too far and couldn't get the arm down any further because they'd overtightened the clamp. Take yours apart and try it, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Super looking forward to this....

http://www.amazon.com/Cinema-Alchemist-Designing-Star-Alien/dp/1783299002

...maybe we'll get lucky and he'll have shared some original photos of the props in production in his book!

 

[thd9791]

It's been confirmed multiple times in other threads many years ago that the track is plastic. Thanks for reiterating I guess..

And, quite frankly, a graflex clamp can't tighten that much when attached to a flash unit. the Bubble strip, un trimmed, is still much thinner than the clamp width.

 

[Ridire Firean]

It's been confirmed multiple times in other threads many years ago that the track is plastic. Thanks for reiterating I guess..

You're welcome, kind of ...since so many people here are still questioning what they are made out of exactly. It's good to reexamine ideas from time to time in order to gain a greater understanding of the subject. Wouldn't you agree? Especially since there's no definitive answer yet given by either those that made the prop, or detailed evidence presented from the props current owner.

And, quite frankly, a graflex clamp can't tighten that much when attached to a flash unit. the Bubble strip, un trimmed, is still much thinner than the clamp width.

Oh yeah? I think I'd take that bet. My GRAFLEX currently has a tight bite on a strip of circuit board I made for it that's 71/128" in width. And though I don't have a Ti-Exactra 19 bubble strip, I do have one from a Ti-SR-51-II that's 1/2" in width. And if I ever decide to ruin the calculator for it, it'll chomp down on it just fine.

With any luck Roger Christian will shed that definitive evidence we all so eagerly strive to obtain in his book come this July...

http://www.amazon.com/Cinema-Alchemist-Designing-Star-Alien/dp/1783299002

I can't wait to read it, I know we're all hoping he has some stellar photos of the props either in production or right after they were finished being made. And too, that his memory of how they were made, after 39 odd years, is clear enough to give an accurate account of exactly what he used to do so.

What confounds me is that, after all the haphazard, built on a wee budget, reused, recycled construction of the first lightsabers, that there are still, perhaps equally, so many different variations of the Luke/Rey lightsaber in The Force Awakens which had a modern, STAR WARS is the Box Office King, Disney sized budget that could have made a thousand exact replicas if they had so chosen to do so.

One way or the other though, I'm just glad the new movie is such a success. I bet Disney gets their $4billion back in no time and with any luck, someone will get it through to them to make all the scene used, promo used, theme park / exhibition used lightsabers the same. And if it's not too much to ask of them, can we please have perfect continuity between scenes for how the lightsabers are being held? And too, that the activation strip is what 'activates' the lightsaber's blade!

 

[thd9791]

You're welcome, kind of ...since so many people here are still questioning what they are made out of exactly. It's good to reexamine ideas from time to time in order to gain a greater understanding of the subject. Wouldn't you agree? Especially since there's no definitive answer yet given by either those that made the prop, or detailed evidence presented from the props current owner.

Well, honestly no, - there is definitive proof. a few people have handled the props, and we have mounds of photographic evidence of blasters and sabers made in that timeframe and its all plastic.

and im not sure what you're arguing. Exactra bubble strips are not as wide as the space between Graflex clamp ridges. That's just a fact, and I'm sure James, Marcus or any number of people could confirm that if it bugs you.

 

[Ridire Firean]

I'm not arguing anything, what I'm saying is that the clamps on my Graflex flash tubes cant inward at the top because my lever is screwed in far enough to prevent the lower section from moving at all, and that if flexed inward a hair more, they'd hold the bubble strip. The space between the sides of the clamp is as wide as the operator makes it. These flash tube's clamps were versatile enough to be used on more than just Graflex brand camera mounts. They can hold a wide strip like the printed circuit boards used in a ESB, or a thin one like a bubble strip in ANH depending on how you flex the clamp by tightening the lever. The confirmation is in my hand, has been for twenty years. What I'm hoping is that you would go have a little fun with experimenting with your clamp to see how they can be adjusted to suit our needs instead of telling me that what I've done is impossible. Maybe you've played with adjusting your clamp, maybe you haven't, I don't know. But if you haven't, please give it a try. And show a little Light Side to a newbee here would ya, that's all I'm asking. I'm only new here, I'm not new to this flash tube. And if not, then I agree to disagree, and I'm leaving it at that. O.K. it's late, time for me to turn in. Have a good night!

 

[matty matt]

I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for any reliable info from Roger Christian.

 

[Sym-Cha]

Ridire Firean ... I'd love to see some pictures of your 20 year old Luke lightsaber if you please ... since this thread lacks pictures and of course to satisfy my curiosity

Word of advice : I would not recommend playing with your levers, guys ... they do tend to snap when under to much pressure ... and at going rates for G R A F L E X flashguns and parts ... a 'new' vintage lever can go more than is worth a test.

Now as to whether or not the bubblestrip was just 'clamped' inbetween or underneath the clamp teeth on the ANH Luke or OB1 G R A F L E X ... keep in mind that the propmakers did have access to a new adhesive back in 1976, which is what we call Super Glue nowadays and dried within seconds of use ... so if superglued it's quite possible the bubblestrip could not pop out of the clamp when the lever opened unintentionally during shooting.

Chaim

I'm not arguing anything, what I'm saying is that the clamps on my Graflex flash tubes cant inward at the top because my lever is screwed in far enough to prevent the lower section from moving at all, and that if flexed inward a hair more, they'd hold the bubble strip. The space between the sides of the clamp is as wide as the operator makes it. These flash tube's clamps were versatile enough to be used on more than just Graflex brand camera mounts. They can hold a wide strip like the printed circuit boards used in a ESB, or a thin one like a bubble strip in ANH depending on how you flex the clamp by tightening the lever. The confirmation is in my hand, has been for twenty years. What I'm hoping is that you would go have a little fun with experimenting with your clamp to see how they can be adjusted to suit our needs instead of telling me that what I've done is impossible. Maybe you've played with adjusting your clamp, maybe you haven't, I don't know. But if you haven't, please give it a try. And show a little Light Side to a newbee here would ya, that's all I'm asking. I'm only new here, I'm not new to this flash tube. And if not, then I agree to disagree, and I'm leaving it at that. O.K. it's late, time for me to turn in. Have a good night!

 

[Lichtbringer]

New glue?

As far as I know it was developed in WW 1 to close smaller wounds fast.


Btw. I just throw standard household rubber band in the edges.

 

[Ridire Firean]

Hey Sym-Cha, I hope these satisfy or a least scratch the tickle of your curiosity away. I've had these forever it seems, I can't tell you which of the GRAFLEX I've had for 20 years, or if it should be which I've had for 25 years, but they were collected within a short period of time. If I had to guess, one year, maybe two. I might be able to narrow it down if I could find some old photos of them when I purchased them, or the receipts if they're still around to be found. I remember driving all over to find them, one guy sold me at least two of them, one from a show, one mailed from his house/store. He had several more but was starting to ask for $100.00 a piece and I was thinking he was too high at $50-$75.00. I should have done it in hindsight, but I didn't have the money. The Heiland SYNCHRONAR came from a shop. The vacuum tube came from the basement.







I'm glad to have found FX-Sabers.com which led me to TheRPF !!! Now that I've seen how great everyone's conversions are, I'm gaining the confidence to begin converting mine.

I don't know If I want to go 100% screen accurate (once we ever figure out what that is), or if I want to 'make my own lightsaber because that's the Jedi Way' and base it strongly off of the ANH+ESB=TFA Luke saber.

I hope that JQ-Sabers Stainless GRAFLEX turn out to be as nice as the original GRAFLEX. If they do, I'll probably buy those and convert them and leave my original GRAFLEX alone. I also have plans to make my very own lightsaber similar to a StarKiller.

For now I'm content to use the one with O-rings on it and the D-ring clamp I made as my lightsaber prop.

 

[Edraven99]

and im not sure what you're arguing. Exactra bubble strips are not as wide as the space between Graflex clamp ridges. That's just a fact, and I'm sure James, Marcus or any number of people could confirm that if it bugs you.

Sorry... I'm confused... are you saying that an Exactra bubble strip can't be held within the clamp ridges? If so I respectfully disagree...

 

[Jedi Reali]

Sorry... I'm confused... are you saying that an Exactra bubble strip can't be held within the clamp ridges? If so I respectfully disagree...

I think he's referring to the total width of the space inside/beneath a closed clamp's rails, roughly 15mm. An Exactra bubble strip's width is less than that.

 

[Jedi Reali]

I'd like to offer two more items in support of my argument against the ANH Exactra bubble strips being sanded along the sides, decreasing their original width in order that they may be "pinched" within the roughly 10mm gap between the clamp's rails. These two images:



In both these photos the bubble strips appear to be sitting on top of their respective clamps. Why? We have no idea. But we do know that this would not be possible if their sides were sanded to fit between the clamp's rails "pinch style".

 

[Edraven99]

I think with the Obi it's a bit of an optical illusion... here's a pic of my Obi and my bubble strip looks like its sitting on top; meanwhile it's firmly clamped inside the rails:

 

[thd9791]

I'd like to offer two more items in support of my argument against the ANH Exactra bubble strips being sanded along the sides, decreasing their original width in order that they may be "pinched" within the roughly 10mm gap between the clamp's rails. These two images:

View attachment 615186View attachment 615187

In both these photos the bubble strips appear to be sitting on top of their respective clamps. Why? We have no idea. But we do know that this would not be possible if their sides were sanded to fit between the clamp's rails "pinch style".

Thanks for clearing up my meaning! Actually, if the bubbles were beneath the rails they'd be lower than if they were pinched and thicker