Latex and kaolin?

[976masks]

just wondering if anyone has any advice for mixing kaolin and latex together?

I have been using only latex to make my masks and latex is super expensive in Canada. I read online that you can use Kaolin powder to harden your latex so you won’t need as many layers.

Anyone know if this is true and what the ratio would be ?

 

[udog]

just wondering if anyone has any advice for mixing kaolin and latex together?

I have been using only latex to make my masks and latex is super expensive in Canada. I read online that you can use Kaolin powder to harden your latex so you won’t need as many layers.

Anyone know if this is true and what the ratio would be ? There's a latex hardener and I think it carries kaolin.

Not sure it will do well for masks, it looses propperties. At least for a full mask.
There's latex hardener that carries Kaolin. When I've used it the ratio depends on what you want, how much harder you want it. You'll have to try. I recall you can use it up to 1latex/2 hardener (really hard and stiff). You can start from 4 latex /1 hardener and see.

It will loose stretchiness and flexibility so careful with undercuts etc depending on how much you use. If it's a full mask might make it harder to put on and more tearable.
Also it will make it less durable in my experience.
As I said not sure if good for masks.

 

[976masks]

Thanks for the reply,

After I read your reply I looked into HX Stiffener for latex.

Am I wrong in believing this will save time and money using this! Meaning that you can use less layers?

 

[udog]

Thanks for the reply,

After I read your reply I looked into HX Stiffener for latex.

Am I wrong in believing this will save time and money using this! Meaning that you can use less layers?

In my opinion for a full pull over latex mask it won't do and you won't save that much time and money.
I don't know how you fill your molds but the usual way is filling to the top letting latex dwell in the mold till you get the desired thickness. Then empty the mold and let dry. Thinking of it this way, no layers involved, so doing it by layers means more time.
By layers you might need to have less material than the dwelling method but at the end if you are after the same thickness, you are using the same quantity and buying the hardener.
But the main thing here is the final result. You loose elasticity and flexibility. Is that going to work for your masks?. That is the first question you should ask yourself.
Honestly I don´t see the benefits in using it for mask making (other props could be a different case). at least for full masks, maybe for half masks...

 

[JRFerreri]

Anything added to liquid latex rubber (polyisoprene) will interfere with the elasticity of the final cast other than perhaps pulverized rubber particles. Unless you need strength and stiffness in the final item, you trade off the ability to elongate and return to the original shape.

There are numerous neutral fillers used for all sorts of material casting, anything that is water soluble can very likely be added to liquid latex. Anything that is particulate matter will cause the latex to shrink around it, causing it to become harder and stretch much less. Acrylic paint added will tint latex, tremendously reduce flexibility, and make it much harder, more adhesive - making that it will be hard to demold without using a separator or painting in an intial layer of latex without any additives.

When making a half mask with my high school students who aren't worried about archival quality length of life of the piece, I've experimented with a variety of things. After painting in an initial brush coat, I've had students follow with torn up pieces of paper towel dipped in latex, much like you would do with Papier-Mâché. They may apply a second Stuck later and a final brush in layer of plain latex.

For purposely hard casts like stunt props, I've used multiple layers of paper or torn pieces of cotton fabric, like old bedsheets. You can experiment with the latex you normally use in a small mold or just cast a chin area within your mold to see what results you get. Back in the days when I mass produced masks they were pure isoprene, other than some pigment.

Mold making latex has fillers already added for bulk and is flexible but stretches less. This requires less layers but you won't save much on cost. You can buy it in arts and craft stores in small containers but when you calculate the cost to acquire a gallon it's less expensive to buy a good mask making latex like Mabry or RD-407, which is faithful recreation of the original Cementex product.