KILL BILL - Hattori Hanzo Blade - the bride's sword - detail photos

DONW999

Member
So, here are some details photos and maybe a thought or two of other things.
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Im quite happy with how the Foo-Dog turned out, although, it seems a little too big because I don't have much space for Harmon. Live and learn.
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The blade was sanded down a bit too much, because I was impatient and worked on the blade before I bought the brass piece. so it is too big.
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Funny thing about real ray skin. Allow me to ask if you have been to the dentist and have cavity drilled out? You know that special smell? It turns out, it is the same if you file the ray skin - calcium. And it is really hard, not unbreakable hard, but hard and abrasive enough to beat most files work on plastic.
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The sword itself fully disassembled or field stripped.
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My wife was named after a piece of poem that her grand father was quite fond of, the four letters mean “all that pure energy of beauty and good gathered and give birth to such splandid child”... I might went over the board with translation a bit, but hey, she's my wife, I am allowed to give her all the compliments, right!!
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So I also made a stand out of PVC pipes, screws and bolts. My one day build, hahaha.

It isn't difficult, not like at all expected. If you don't really care about precision that much.-_<, but a hole drill most definitely is helpful. Because I know its going to take a bit of weight, so I chose larger OD 35mm for the vertical, and 20mm for the horizontals. Originally, I was going to make a base out of cardboard, but it turns out, I didn't have any large enough and it may not be strong enough. So one section of the 40mm pipe, left over from the light saber build, was drafted and used a base stand. This way, it looks a bit like the Japanese Kendo court stands.

The long screws are really a good idea because, initially, I considered glue, but didn't go with as it is probably not going to be strong enough. "Strong enough" again, em... gotta think of something else to say.

Oh, yes, the shelves, can I call them that? I just hold them at an angle and drill the hole with 3mm drills and inserted screws. No need for special treatment and as long as the drill go through four layers, it is all Okey.
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Added a few pieces of EVA foam on the shelves and on the back, because I don't wan the protruding bolt head scratching my wall and the it protests the goodies resting on them.

Don't worry, the "guns" are not real, just water gel pellets projectile shooters, like the Snobnose Blade Runner blaster. And they were bought for visual value than their shooting prowess.

There is little expendability at the bottom for one more shelf, but I want to leave it as it is for now and it can grow upwards if necessary, though, the base needs to be upgraded as well in that case.

It isn't too difficult to drill at an angle with a hole drill on PVC pile, that's how I did the bottom diagonal supports.
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Well, we are at the end again. What do you think? Any suggestions?

I just bought a omni mecha arm for camera, hopefully can start making some videos. Would appreciate suggestions on that too.

Stay safe and good luck!
 
You can do same but using a chinese blade with real temperline now.
On the kil bill, undersize a bit the sheat end part, or cut into the sheat before putting it, put a bit wider gold tape, the gold tape should be cut with variable width I don't remember if I cut variable width on mine or not.
Make the guard completely black, rim included.
Then, maybe you can make bill, oren or budd sword.
That was my plan, when I made thebride sword in 2013 or so, but finally sold it, so I focused on highlander, kenshin and real swords instead of.
 
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You can do same but using a chinese blade with real temperline now.
On the kil bill, undersize a bit the sheat end part, or cut into the sheat before putting it, put a bit wider gold tape, the gold tape should be cut with variable width I don't remember if I cut variable width on mine or not.
Make the guard completely black, rim included.
Then, maybe you can make bill, oren or budd sword.
That was my plan, when I made thebride sword in 2013 or so, but finally sold it, so I focused on highlander, kenshin and real swords instead of.
Yea, thanks man. I made it for my wife as birthday present, and I wanted to make it myself. So Aluminium blade is just the right choice in my case. There are more than one place that aren't correct on this "Copy", mostly superficial though and not without reason. If you like, why not check out the other thread on details.^_*
 
Most excellent work on that sword (love the phrase you've put for your wife(y)(y)) and that PVC stand would look better with little details added: special plugs for the open pipes (Japanese style) and good coat of red paint would do the trick:notworthy::notworthy:
 
Most excellent work on that sword (love the phrase you've put for your wife(y)(y)) and that PVC stand would look better with little details added: special plugs for the open pipes (Japanese style) and good coat of red paint would do the trick:notworthy::notworthy:
Thank you. That’s an excellent suggestion. You know what’s funny, after dinner, I was looking at the stand thought myself, I want to put gargoyle heads onto the ends of the poles! Haha, image the odd of thinking similar things at the same time!
 
Can you make me one please? I appreciate your craftsmanship. Most accurate one I have seen. Let me know if you can please. We can talk more
 
Can you make me one please? I appreciate your craftsmanship. Most accurate one I have seen. Let me know if you can please. We can talk more
 
Can you make me one please? I appreciate your craftsmanship. Most accurate one I have seen. Let me know if you can please. We can talk more
Thank you, I’m terribly flattered by your request. But I must be quite frank, the material/ tools along cost me well over 300 USD. And there would be the problem of shipping international of a sword… which is next to impossible from where I live. I really do appreciate your like and would love to help, but i think you are better of with Jason’s version (the one who make Adam Savages sword). Again, thank you. Hope you find what you are after.
 
Most excellent work my friend! I' m on my Journey for my Bride-Katana as well and at the moment I only dream to come as close as you are!

May I ask how you did the side carvings for the golden stripes? I assume you used the Goldtape as well and at the moment I try to find out how to carve a straight notch (if that's the right word) into my saya. Any recommondations?

Also, I just finished my Kojiri in brass. Can't wait to paint and attach it! What was your solution for it?

Kind regards from Switzerland :)!
 

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Most excellent work my friend! I' m on my Journey for my Bride-Katana as well and at the moment I only dream to come as close as you are!

May I ask how you did the side carvings for the golden stripes? I assume you used the Goldtape as well and at the moment I try to find out how to carve a straight notch (if that's the right word) into my saya. Any recommondations?

Also, I just finished my Kojiri in brass. Can't wait to paint and attach it! What was your solution for it?

Kind regards from Switzerland :)!
Hello there! So glad you like my work. And good luck to you on your journey.

I used a golden stripes on the SAYA like you described, a picture is attached for your reference. I had to be bend it before hand, so it would adhere to the SAYA better. I also tried curved version the of the same thing, but they are just too rigid, the adhesive simply won't hold (for simplicity sick, I only used double-sided tape, very strong one though).

In retrospect, I would have carve out the channel on the SAYA before painting because the centre line the two pieces of wood meet would be still visible to be the reference. I don't know if you are making your SAYA or buying, so the above is just for me.

Congratulations on getting the Kojiri, that indeed is the most difficult to source. I 3D printed my and it is ginormous... and it cracked already. Need to figure a better way to make it.... Until I can get a better version, I'll just leave it as it is. As of attachment, I'd say epoxy should be perfectly sufficient. I suspect on real KATANA's, this part is mostly pressure fit and maybe use japan as adhesive?

Hope my blabbering can give you a little help and best of wishes to you too!
 

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