Brandon1
New Member
This is a tutorial on how to paint not only your mask but other latex parts you may own, all buy hand and with in a modest budget.
First thing you will need is a design for your mask. I recommend one of TMI’s templates. You can use of these to design the pattern of the mask as well as choose your colour scheme. Here is an example of mine:
Getting ready:
What you will need; paint, gloss, brushes (various sizes), sponge brushes, Super/Krazy glue and rubber cement
Next you’ll have to get your paints. For mine I used Liquitex Acrylics. You can find these at Micheals, but if you have a smaller higher end art store I suggest you look there. They normally have a larger selection of paints. Remeber you can print off your design if its done on your computer and take it with you and ask some one who works there what colours they think you’ll need if your still a bit sketchy. I used White, Burnt Sienna, Black, Bronzed Yellow and Raw Umber for my paint scheme.
You will also need to pic up some Liquitex Gloss Medium & Varnish.
http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedglossmedvar.cfm
While your getting paint I suggest to pick up a large brush (about an inch long), a smaller brush for details and some sponge brushes.
You will also need some rubber cement. The normal Elmers brand is good. This will help keep the paint to the latex as well as provide flexibility.
http://www.denis.ca/catalogue/produit.html...p;C=00&L=EN
You will need the super glue to keep your teeth in place. I suggest waiting till the rest of your mask is painted before gluing your teeth in. If your mask is like mine though my lower mandible and teeth where joined, I glued them in first thing.
Also make sure that you have some sort of stand for your mask so that it is not lying down. This makes it easier to paint and you don’t risk rolling it into a wet spot of paint and ruining what you have just done. I was lucky enough to have a jack in my garage that was perfect for this.
Painting:
First thing to do before you start painting is to clean your mask. Use a damp cloth to remove any dust or latex bits that may have landed on the mask during cutting. Let this dry for a bit.
After your mask is clean its ready for your first coat of paint.
I suggest doing your base skin tone first. This should be your lightest colour.
Now put some of the base skin colour onto your palette. For this you can just use some wax paper. Do any mixing of colours here. Once you are happy with the shade/colour of your skin tone poor in some rubber cement. I used about ½ of rubber cement compared to how much paint. Be careful as the more glue you use the faster it will dry and become a wade of painted glue
Next apply a generous helping of rubber cement to the area you wish to paint. I’d suggest starting off at the crown and working your way down. Each time putting the rubber cement onto any dry areas. If your painting any rough areas make sure you get the cement into every crack, espicially if the area is going to bend quite a bit (I.E. Hands)
Now slap on your paint with the large brush. You can also use one of your sponge brushes and just dab it over the painted area to make sure there aren’t any brush lines left. You will notice that the rubber cement will dilute your paint when on the mask. Once it has started to dry and has gotten a bit tacky/sticky add another coat to any areas that are needed. To make the most of your paint I’d suggest making a mental note of what area’s will be showing the light skin and what areas will be where you will blend to the darker colour. Make sure you go over these areas by a bit but you do not need to paint the entire back of the mask your flesh tone because this will be dark later on.
After his coat is done and dry bend the areas a bit to check for cracking in the paint. If the painted area cracks use your fingernail to remove the paint around the area, then smear on some rubber cement and repaint.
Your next step is to apply your darker colour. I used 2 different shades to get the effect of the skin tone fading from my dark colour to my light colour.
I did the dark area the same way as the light area, applying rubber cement and mixing my paints. However instead of using a brush, I used a sponge brush. I ripped off chunks around the top so that I didn’t have a straight line.
When applying the paint I used a dry brush effect around the “borders” of where the light skin tones go into the darker ones.
If your sponge has to much paint on it don’t worry. You can dab most of it off farther back from that border until you get the desired "strength". After you are done you should have something that looks like this:
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Your next step is your darkest colour.
Follow the same rules as you did for the last 2 steps. When you are doing this you should have a “dryer” sponge when you’re going over the border. This will allow the lighter colour underneath to shine through and gives a nice blending effect.
You will end up with something that looks like this:
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Now for the inside of the mouth.
Again mix your paints and rubber cement. The tone of the inside of a pred mask is harder to get then any of the rest so expect to screw up a lot. it'll take a few coats before you get a pink your happy with and is blended. (i'm still not happy with mine and will be doing a 4th coat at soem point)
Once your mask is all painted its time to do your spots, if you have any that is, not all preds have spots. Use your darkest colour for this. Making sure that the larger spots are to the sides and back of the crown and have them get smaller and farther spread out as you come in. You can use a Q-tip or any other cotton swab stick to dab some different shaped dots.
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Teeth
Now comes painting your teeth. Depending on the colour of the resin you may want to give them a coat of white. After they have dried give it a brown wash. To do this use a watered down brown. Starting at the base work your way up. You can do as many washes as you’d like till you get the desired tone. You may also want to gradually get darker as you go from the tip of the tooth to its base.
Due to the water this shouldn’t take to long to dry.
Once its all dry put some Super glue into the holes on the mask. Make sure you read the rules and instructions for your glue! If you get this on your skin you may expect a layer or two to come off when you pull the glue. You won’t need a lot of this stuff. Leaver your mask for a bit while the glue drys. 5 to 10 minutes depending on your glue. Once your teeth are all glued in your almost done.
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Its now time to add your gloss coat!
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
More updates once my gloss coat is done!
First thing you will need is a design for your mask. I recommend one of TMI’s templates. You can use of these to design the pattern of the mask as well as choose your colour scheme. Here is an example of mine:
Getting ready:
What you will need; paint, gloss, brushes (various sizes), sponge brushes, Super/Krazy glue and rubber cement
Next you’ll have to get your paints. For mine I used Liquitex Acrylics. You can find these at Micheals, but if you have a smaller higher end art store I suggest you look there. They normally have a larger selection of paints. Remeber you can print off your design if its done on your computer and take it with you and ask some one who works there what colours they think you’ll need if your still a bit sketchy. I used White, Burnt Sienna, Black, Bronzed Yellow and Raw Umber for my paint scheme.
You will also need to pic up some Liquitex Gloss Medium & Varnish.
http://www.liquitex.com/Products/fluidmedglossmedvar.cfm
While your getting paint I suggest to pick up a large brush (about an inch long), a smaller brush for details and some sponge brushes.
You will also need some rubber cement. The normal Elmers brand is good. This will help keep the paint to the latex as well as provide flexibility.
http://www.denis.ca/catalogue/produit.html...p;C=00&L=EN
You will need the super glue to keep your teeth in place. I suggest waiting till the rest of your mask is painted before gluing your teeth in. If your mask is like mine though my lower mandible and teeth where joined, I glued them in first thing.
Also make sure that you have some sort of stand for your mask so that it is not lying down. This makes it easier to paint and you don’t risk rolling it into a wet spot of paint and ruining what you have just done. I was lucky enough to have a jack in my garage that was perfect for this.
Painting:
First thing to do before you start painting is to clean your mask. Use a damp cloth to remove any dust or latex bits that may have landed on the mask during cutting. Let this dry for a bit.
After your mask is clean its ready for your first coat of paint.
I suggest doing your base skin tone first. This should be your lightest colour.
Now put some of the base skin colour onto your palette. For this you can just use some wax paper. Do any mixing of colours here. Once you are happy with the shade/colour of your skin tone poor in some rubber cement. I used about ½ of rubber cement compared to how much paint. Be careful as the more glue you use the faster it will dry and become a wade of painted glue
Next apply a generous helping of rubber cement to the area you wish to paint. I’d suggest starting off at the crown and working your way down. Each time putting the rubber cement onto any dry areas. If your painting any rough areas make sure you get the cement into every crack, espicially if the area is going to bend quite a bit (I.E. Hands)
Now slap on your paint with the large brush. You can also use one of your sponge brushes and just dab it over the painted area to make sure there aren’t any brush lines left. You will notice that the rubber cement will dilute your paint when on the mask. Once it has started to dry and has gotten a bit tacky/sticky add another coat to any areas that are needed. To make the most of your paint I’d suggest making a mental note of what area’s will be showing the light skin and what areas will be where you will blend to the darker colour. Make sure you go over these areas by a bit but you do not need to paint the entire back of the mask your flesh tone because this will be dark later on.
After his coat is done and dry bend the areas a bit to check for cracking in the paint. If the painted area cracks use your fingernail to remove the paint around the area, then smear on some rubber cement and repaint.
Your next step is to apply your darker colour. I used 2 different shades to get the effect of the skin tone fading from my dark colour to my light colour.
I did the dark area the same way as the light area, applying rubber cement and mixing my paints. However instead of using a brush, I used a sponge brush. I ripped off chunks around the top so that I didn’t have a straight line.
When applying the paint I used a dry brush effect around the “borders” of where the light skin tones go into the darker ones.
If your sponge has to much paint on it don’t worry. You can dab most of it off farther back from that border until you get the desired "strength". After you are done you should have something that looks like this:
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Your next step is your darkest colour.
Follow the same rules as you did for the last 2 steps. When you are doing this you should have a “dryer” sponge when you’re going over the border. This will allow the lighter colour underneath to shine through and gives a nice blending effect.
You will end up with something that looks like this:
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Now for the inside of the mouth.
Again mix your paints and rubber cement. The tone of the inside of a pred mask is harder to get then any of the rest so expect to screw up a lot. it'll take a few coats before you get a pink your happy with and is blended. (i'm still not happy with mine and will be doing a 4th coat at soem point)
Once your mask is all painted its time to do your spots, if you have any that is, not all preds have spots. Use your darkest colour for this. Making sure that the larger spots are to the sides and back of the crown and have them get smaller and farther spread out as you come in. You can use a Q-tip or any other cotton swab stick to dab some different shaped dots.
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Teeth
Now comes painting your teeth. Depending on the colour of the resin you may want to give them a coat of white. After they have dried give it a brown wash. To do this use a watered down brown. Starting at the base work your way up. You can do as many washes as you’d like till you get the desired tone. You may also want to gradually get darker as you go from the tip of the tooth to its base.
Due to the water this shouldn’t take to long to dry.
Once its all dry put some Super glue into the holes on the mask. Make sure you read the rules and instructions for your glue! If you get this on your skin you may expect a layer or two to come off when you pull the glue. You won’t need a lot of this stuff. Leaver your mask for a bit while the glue drys. 5 to 10 minutes depending on your glue. Once your teeth are all glued in your almost done.
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
Its now time to add your gloss coat!
Shot with KODAK EASYSHARE C743 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA at 2008-08-06
More updates once my gloss coat is done!
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