How to paint realistic sword blades

[hisham02479]

Hi RPF!

I've recently been trying to build an Odachi from scratch and I've been using 3D prints for the blade. I cant seem to get the kind of finish im looking for though.

I did test blocks and painted using spray paint in the following order:

Krylon Flat Black Primer - 2 Coats
Rustoleum Titanium Silver - 2 Coats
Rustoleum Shiny Finish - 2 Coats
Krylon Clear Finish - 2 Coats


For some reason once i add the clear coat, the finish looks sandy (although its still smooth to touch)


Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any suggestions and comments are welcome! Thanks in advance!

 

[Iggy]

I like spaz stix but it takes a smooth finish before doing the silver. You should have a gloss black base coat prior to silver as well. Afterwards gives a nice shine.

Clearcoats dull most silver spray paints.

 

[hisham02479]

I like spaz stix but it takes a smooth finish before doing the silver. You should have a gloss black base coat prior to silver as well. Afterwards gives a nice shine.

Clearcoats dull most silver spray paints.

Ooh I see! Spaz Stix looks awesome!! But if Clearcoats dull them, how should I go about protecting the silver paint layer? That seems to be the part that keeps getting me =/

 

[Rogviler]

In a word, you don't. Any clear coat will ruin the metallic effect unless you use a paint system that has a clear specifically designed for it (there aren't many).

I normally think Rub 'n Buff looks like junk because people apply it like ham-fisted drybrushing, but I recently saw an amazing use of it where they prepped the surface glossy smooth, then applied the Rub 'n Buff and polished it out. It pretty much looked like a polished steel blade. So in that instance I would look into it if you're looking for another thing to try. Still don't clear coat it though.

-Rog

 

[FuzzyDrawings]

If the blade is completely stiff you can just use aluminum tape from your local hardware store. It's really good but if the blade can bend in any amount, it will create creases in the tape. I've also had luck with applying Design Masters Super Silver over a gloss coat. I recently bought some Alclad II Stainless Steel and Aqua Gloss Clear that I'm going to try airbrushing for a sword I'm working on.

 

[Zinger]

As FuzzyDrawings said, aluminum tape works really well. Adam Savage has a video on Tested.com showing how to apply it. The taping starts around 19 minutes in.

http://www.tested.com/art/makers/460153-one-day-builds-customizing-adams-hero-sword/

 

[Rogviler]

To be fair, he did say "realistic" sword blades. I've never seen aluminum tape not look like aluminum tape, with wrinkles and seams galore. Add a black wash and it's a campfire potato.

Great for cons and weathered Orc blades.

-Rog

 

[Zinger]

Savage buffs the tape with 000 steel wool to take the shine off it. That also hides the seams and small imperfections.

You do have to be careful when applying it.

 

[Rogviler]

I love Adam, but it still looks like aluminum foil to me, although it works fine for what he was trying to accomplish. I'd love to see an example where it looks like a finished, displayable prop and not just a last-minute in the Comic-Con hotel room thing. So far no takers on that one. :unsure

-Rog