I really enjoyed this, although I found I enjoyed it almost clinically, as an aesthetic experience. Like many fairy tale style stories, it struck me as emotionally distant. My inner film nerd was soaking in the details, the craftsmanship, the technical and artistic perfection of the whole thing--my head was completely engaged. But I'm not sure del Toro grabbed my heart.
Having said that, I'm a huge Creature From The Black Lagoon fan, so this was pretty yummy viewing.