Graflex Saber Question

Cameron

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi all,
I know this has been discussed to death and I have searched through all of the past posts but I am overwhelmed by info (some of it maybe out of date). I have a few questions about doing a Graflex conversion. i want to make a working hilt that contains a crystal chamber, sound card and is as screen acurate as possible. I have a real Graflex I stole at a flea market for $20 and Im itchin to get on this one. soooo....
1. In your opinion who makes the best Crystal Chamber insert?
2. Who makes the best vanes?
3. Best Luxeon conversion kit? (unless you prefer another lighting method that may be newer)

I am new here and I have to say the knowledge on this site is amazing and a big thanks in advance!
Cam
 
Hello,

What a lucky guy to find a graflex for 20 bucks...

About the soundboard seems the CF is very good,not for all optionnal sounds(I just need Hum,motion and clash,no music or voices,hey,it's a lightsaber!),but because of motion and clash sensors.
You can the MR technology,boards are easy to find.

To attach the blade,you can find a blade holder at TCSS,what is good is that it has the shape of original graflex bulb holder,and you can put the original brass pins again.
Of course the blade is removable,and screw locked.

About the luxeon,it's the easiest way,easy to install,easy to remove the blade.
However it's not terrific,because of some shadow areas in the blade.
I think the best is just a chain of leds,like makototsai or slothfurnace.
It's qute same to MR technlology,but really brighter and stonger,you can battle.
With a mr board it's possible to create ignition effect using more than more than one ground wire,maybe 2 or 3 grounds would be great.
To have a removable blade with this,you can find XLR connectors,some have up to 7 pins(One + and 6 grounds,like original MR blades)

About the crystal chamber,I think the best will be yours.
I think this part is really personnal for each of us.

I like the ones of slothfurnace.

But...

If the jedi has to work and polish the crystal to perfection,I think we have to do same.
Like a japanese sabersmith who uses stones to give life to a rough blade.
Seems there are two crystals:eek:ne for the source of energy,other is for driving it.
The one for the source would give colored light(blue,green,red)so I think it must be colored,and must use a white led.
I have polished one blue,green and several colorless crystals for the crystal chamber.
If you want to use only one,you can use a colorless crystal,and do the colored crystal by cutting a 10mm led to give the shape of a crystal.

here is the blue before polishing,it is 13mm long:

p1060818.jpg


Here are 3 colorless crystals,rough,half polished,polished,the biggest is 19mm long:

3_cris11.jpg


I use this reference for size and structure of chamber:

lights11.jpg


You can use this LINK,It's in french language,but it' my researches about wiring,led string blade,and crystal chamber.
 
Hey Parf,
Thanks so much for the response. I had no idea about the TCSS site. Many thanks for that link and the rest of the info. That Slothfurnace piece is amazing. Think I will just throw my Graflex away after seeing that!!! I mean, why bother....lol
Thanks again
Cam
 
If you throught it away,I will indicate the direction:
From Philadelphia:just to the east,above the ocean,strongly enough to let it come to France,in my garden,or my home.

TCSS is The custom saber shop.

You can begin with a easy work,put grips,D-ring and bubble strip,and make a static prop.

Then you buy:
-a 1"blade(you can choose something complete,with diffusor,etc...)
-the TCSS blade adaptor,1" version,not 3/4"
-a cree cool white,I don't remember the serial,but you choose the most efficient at 1A,no more
-a blue filter
-a 5° collimator
-A MR soundboard
-a speaker
-3 AA cells(Ni-Mh)for a 4,5v power

for speaker and cells you can choose a MR batteries pack,it's a black plastic piece with cells connector and speaker,easy to find on ebay.
If I am right,they exist in several version:
3 AA
3 AAA
and 6 AA or AAA(old versions,for el blades and early led blades)

The led and collimator are fixed on the blade adaptor,the + is on choc sensor,and the ground is on the 6 ground wires of the board.

The really easiest way to do is to use the CONSTRUCTION SET

It's already a luxeon saber.
However I think you will have to replace the luxeon led,because the original is a 3w RGB,so only 1w per color,and you need 3w for a good light,and only one color.
I don't know if you have to modify the board for a 3w single color led,I think no,everyone told me no.

You have to look after bargains,you can find some good prices for this saber.

When you have it,you remove all plastic parts.
To adapt it in a graflex flash you will have to cut the hilt(aluminium too)to the good lengh,the side of the emitter,let it glide in your graflex flashgun.and put a Led Graflex adapter from TCSS at the emitter side.
The aluminium hilt is 35mm wide,and the graflex is about 35,5mm
If you use this way,I will help you when you do it if you want,no problem.
 
Hello,

You know how to contact members of fx saber?
I have registered on the forum,but not yet received number to have access to post on forum,I just can visit as a guest.
 
Hello,

You know how to contact members of fx saber?
I have registered on the forum,but not yet received number to have access to post on forum,I just can visit as a guest.

Yoda has not been around for a week or so. Someone will upgrade your access shortly and you can PM him..

P.S. If you can't get through to Yoda, let me know and I'll give him a shout.
 
Ok I will wait.
I cann't PM anyon for the acccount upgrade for the moment,because I am as a guest.
But I can watch all threads,so it's only half of a problem.
Thanks a lot.
 
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