Phish4dinner
Well-Known Member
Hello everyone!
I figured i'de share the Proton Pack i've been working on for quite some time. I'm replicating Bill Murrays Proton Pack from Ghostbusters 1 as accurately as humanly possible down to every part/detail i can. I've spent a good portion of the last few years searching for accurate vintage parts and now practically have every vintage, screen accurate part that i need to make an exact Bill Murray pack replica. Which is quite the task at this magnitude. I plan on making a pack that will be "display only" in the near future that im still undecided with the direction im going with it. But, this is the bad boy i will wear out whenever bustin makes me feel good.
I'm currently in the middle of getting an accurate N-filter and upgrading the rest of my aluminum parts for more accurate ones with all the correct details/measurements/welds. This was because i tossed on some spare stuff i had laying around so i could use it for Halloween last year. But I shall share my progress as i go. I also have an aluminum thrower in the works that i have most of what i need to get started on. But we'll just start with the pack..
Here is the breakdown of what i'm using so far..
-Fiberglass shell i'm working with here was made by PChrisbosh1. If you know anything about it, you know it's an extremely detailed shell taken directly from screen used measurements and was made to be a lot more accurate and cleaner than the now widely available production linked shells that still need heavy modifying. It is hero accurate with all the nail marks, woodgrain, texture and other defects seen on screen casted in. Not to mention its just about the most beautiful, perfect piece/casting anybody could hope for.
Pack parts used:
-Real Vintage GB1 Bellows
-Real 4mm Legris First Gen Elbows
-Real 4mm Legris First Gen Straight Fittings
-Real Old stock Clippard R-331 Valve
-Real Dale Ph-25 resistor with no ring, small Pacific resistor and large Dalohm resistors
-Vintage Clippard large beveled hex fittings, old stock square fitting and short hose barbs.
-Vintage Nycoil Red and Yellow 5/32" tubing
-Vintage Clippard 3814-1 Red, Light Blue and Dark Blue 1/4" tubings. Dark Blue was used on the injector tubes and top of Ion Arm. Light Blue was for the Ion Arm resistor to the PPD. Same as ALL of the GB1 hero packs.
-Vintage Raytheon Gray Crank Knob
-UMPCO MS21919 DG-18 ribbon cable P-Clamp
-Split looms, no brainer
-GB1 Ribbon Cable, freehanded by myself.
-Aluminum Bumper, Crank Gen and Fuse Labels. All the other labels are temporary. They are nice. But im anal.
-Jpa35 Ion Arm end cap and rod
-Screen used Hero Bumper casting
-Booster Frame with screen used stunt pack lineage. I plan on replacing this or rebuilding it to be more hero accurate.
-Vintage LC-1 A.L.I.C.E. Frame
-Aluminum motherboard cut by myself
-All accurate bolts/screws
Other temporary parts:
-Aluminum Filler/Beamline tubes, Ion Arm, Booster Tube, PPD and Vac Line
-Extra accurate motherboard details are being added soon as well
Now for some pics!! All comments welcome
and this is basically where i am at right now. Photo was taken a few months ago with an old, beat up resin TC thrower I have just used as a placeholder
The rest of my upgrades are coming very soon but this is my first upgrade since i took that last photo. I changed my Aluminum HGA with one from MultiMediaMayhem. It's abosultely perfect. Accurate, professional clockwise welds, Accurate specs, very reasonably priced and it feels like a screen used part. Can't ask for much more than that. I drilled my own holes and positioned it so it resembles (obviously) Murrays pack. All it needs now is to gather some dust and rusted screws.
the next major upgrade that makes it a complete GB1 pack will be an accurate, 3 piece (male side) V-hook to replace the gb2 my placeholder thrower. I just need to mess with and beat it up a bit so it looks accurate.
Thanks for looking! More to come soon!
I figured i'de share the Proton Pack i've been working on for quite some time. I'm replicating Bill Murrays Proton Pack from Ghostbusters 1 as accurately as humanly possible down to every part/detail i can. I've spent a good portion of the last few years searching for accurate vintage parts and now practically have every vintage, screen accurate part that i need to make an exact Bill Murray pack replica. Which is quite the task at this magnitude. I plan on making a pack that will be "display only" in the near future that im still undecided with the direction im going with it. But, this is the bad boy i will wear out whenever bustin makes me feel good.
I'm currently in the middle of getting an accurate N-filter and upgrading the rest of my aluminum parts for more accurate ones with all the correct details/measurements/welds. This was because i tossed on some spare stuff i had laying around so i could use it for Halloween last year. But I shall share my progress as i go. I also have an aluminum thrower in the works that i have most of what i need to get started on. But we'll just start with the pack..
Here is the breakdown of what i'm using so far..
-Fiberglass shell i'm working with here was made by PChrisbosh1. If you know anything about it, you know it's an extremely detailed shell taken directly from screen used measurements and was made to be a lot more accurate and cleaner than the now widely available production linked shells that still need heavy modifying. It is hero accurate with all the nail marks, woodgrain, texture and other defects seen on screen casted in. Not to mention its just about the most beautiful, perfect piece/casting anybody could hope for.
Pack parts used:
-Real Vintage GB1 Bellows
-Real 4mm Legris First Gen Elbows
-Real 4mm Legris First Gen Straight Fittings
-Real Old stock Clippard R-331 Valve
-Real Dale Ph-25 resistor with no ring, small Pacific resistor and large Dalohm resistors
-Vintage Clippard large beveled hex fittings, old stock square fitting and short hose barbs.
-Vintage Nycoil Red and Yellow 5/32" tubing
-Vintage Clippard 3814-1 Red, Light Blue and Dark Blue 1/4" tubings. Dark Blue was used on the injector tubes and top of Ion Arm. Light Blue was for the Ion Arm resistor to the PPD. Same as ALL of the GB1 hero packs.
-Vintage Raytheon Gray Crank Knob
-UMPCO MS21919 DG-18 ribbon cable P-Clamp
-Split looms, no brainer
-GB1 Ribbon Cable, freehanded by myself.
-Aluminum Bumper, Crank Gen and Fuse Labels. All the other labels are temporary. They are nice. But im anal.
-Jpa35 Ion Arm end cap and rod
-Screen used Hero Bumper casting
-Booster Frame with screen used stunt pack lineage. I plan on replacing this or rebuilding it to be more hero accurate.
-Vintage LC-1 A.L.I.C.E. Frame
-Aluminum motherboard cut by myself
-All accurate bolts/screws
Other temporary parts:
-Aluminum Filler/Beamline tubes, Ion Arm, Booster Tube, PPD and Vac Line
-Extra accurate motherboard details are being added soon as well
Now for some pics!! All comments welcome
and this is basically where i am at right now. Photo was taken a few months ago with an old, beat up resin TC thrower I have just used as a placeholder
The rest of my upgrades are coming very soon but this is my first upgrade since i took that last photo. I changed my Aluminum HGA with one from MultiMediaMayhem. It's abosultely perfect. Accurate, professional clockwise welds, Accurate specs, very reasonably priced and it feels like a screen used part. Can't ask for much more than that. I drilled my own holes and positioned it so it resembles (obviously) Murrays pack. All it needs now is to gather some dust and rusted screws.
the next major upgrade that makes it a complete GB1 pack will be an accurate, 3 piece (male side) V-hook to replace the gb2 my placeholder thrower. I just need to mess with and beat it up a bit so it looks accurate.
Thanks for looking! More to come soon!
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