Folmer Graflex Grips Question.

[mikesprops]

Hey RPF,

I recently managed to get hold of a Folmer Graflex (No Patent) New York and I'm planning to have a go at building an ESB Cave saber out of it. My question is about attaching the grips, I don't really want to drill into it as it doesn't feel right to make holes in something with historical significance, so I'm planning to use 3M double sided tape, which is what I've done on a previous Graflex Inc build. However with the Folmer models being chrome plated, do I risk the chrome peeling off in the event the grips ever get removed in the future?

Any advice is welcome, or any suggestions in general on this build would be great.

Here's some photos for those curious.

 

[IronDestinyProps]

Congrats on the Folmer score! I couldn’t agree more with your desire to preserve it from being drilled.

Shave the screw threads so they sit in the notched grips but don’t penetrate the flash. Use E6000 glue for grip attachment. It does not harm the chrome and provides reliable bonding strength. Do the same with the Kobold clip.

 

[mikesprops]

Congrats on the Folmer score! I couldn’t agree more with your desire to preserve it from being drilled.

Shave the screw threads so they sit in the notched grips but don’t penetrate the flash. Use E6000 glue for grip attachment. It does not harm the chrome and provides reliable bonding strength. Do the same with the Kobold clip.

Thanks! I was really pleased when I found it.

That's just what I thought I would do with the screws. That's the answer I was looking for thank you! I'll order some now. Perfect.

 

[Gregatron]

E6000!

 

[mikesprops]

E6000!

Looks like it's definitely E6000 to the rescue! Thanks Gregatron.

 

[Gregatron]

Looks like it's definitely E6000 to the rescue! Thanks Gregatron.

Seriously, it’s great stuff. All of my saber grips attached with it have stayed firmly on. For the one occasion when I needed to replace some grips, I just put the lower half into the freezer for awhile, and the grips easily peeled off after that. No damage to the flash’s finish whatsoever.

 

[mikesprops]

Seriously, it’s great stuff. All of my saber grips attached with it have stayed firmly on. For the one occasion when I needed to replace some grips, I just put the lower half into the freezer for awhile, and the grips easily peeled off after that. No damage to the flash’s finish whatsoever.

That's perfect, I was just looking up how to remove E6000 and I found lots of recommendations to use acetone, so the freezer is just the answer I was looking for. Brilliant.

Now I just need to decide whether or not I want to swap out the glass eye for a red button. I happen to have a Graflex Inc. I could steal the button from, but then the two buttons wouldn't match as the Folmer button is slightly different. Or I could keep the glass eye, which I personally prefer although it makes it less accurate for an ESB build.

What would you do?

 

[Gregatron]

That's perfect, I was just looking up how to remove E6000 and I found lots of recommendations to use acetone, so the freezer is just the answer I was looking for. Brilliant.

Now I just need to decide whether or not I want to swap out the glass eye for a red button. I happen to have a Graflex Inc. I could steal the button from, but then the two buttons wouldn't match as the Folmer button is slightly different. Or I could keep the glass eye, which I personally prefer although it makes it less accurate for an ESB build.

What would you do?

If you’re doing an ESB build, it kinda needs that extra red button. I suggest, in lieu of getting another vintage red button, acquiring a replica red button, then using the thin-knurl button as an excuse to build an ANH FX saber with motorized/rotating blade!

 

[mikesprops]

If you’re doing an ESB build, it kinda needs that extra red button. I suggest, in lieu of getting another vintage red button, acquiring a replica red button, then using the thin-knurl button as an excuse to build an ANH FX saber with motorized/rotating blade!

I love the idea of a motorized rotating blade! It's a tricky one that requires some debate. I try not to use replica parts if I can help it because in the back of my mind there's a voice that always repeats "why use a replica when you can use a real one?". I think I'll have to have this debate with myself for a little while before I come to a conclusion.

Is the thin knurled button accurate for ANH build?

 

[Gregatron]

I love the idea of a motorized rotating blade! It's a tricky one that requires some debate. I try not to use replica parts if I can help it because in the back of my mind there's a voice that always repeats "why use a replica when you can use a real one?". I think I'll have to have this debate with myself for a little while before I come to a conclusion.

Is the thin knurled button accurate for ANH build?

For the motorized FX version, yes. For the hero, they used the full-knurling button, just as with both ESB hero buttons.

 

[mikesprops]

For the motorized FX version, yes. For the hero, they used the full-knurling button, just as with both ESB hero buttons.

Ah okay, I do love the idea of a motorized FX version. Definitely something I'll have to look into.

 

[Gregatron]

Halliwax and others have done some amazing motorized builds.

 

[mikesprops]

Halliwax and others have done some amazing motorized builds.

I'll check them out. I've seen a couple of builds on here that look amazing, with the reflective film on the blades. Awesome stuff.

 

[thd9791]

That’s a beautiful flash! Congrats on the score - yea both the hard bladed ESB stunt and the motorized Luke stunt used thin knurled red buttons. (Check out the LV Saber thread, I’m making blades now if you ever need one)

I recommend VHB tape or 3M clear trim mounting tape - the more boring and industrial looking the better, that tape is hard to remove. Of course e6000 and the 3M clear tape are easy to remove.

Graflexes are nickel plated. It would take abrasives or power tools to break through the outer layer, you won’t damage it with glue or tape - as long as the plating isn’t already coming off. That’s a restoration issue and a whole other problem.

Yes I would grab a replica button, that’s what I’ve done when I didn’t have extra full knurl buttons. Also, it is a rather common American nicely made camera flash. Don’t worry about dinging it up, scratching it or altering it, it’s your flash and totally okay to take some abuse. These ones were designed to be tougher in the first place, but it’s a movie prop now

 

[mikesprops]

That’s a beautiful flash! Congrats on the score - yea both the hard bladed ESB stunt and the motorized Luke stunt used thin knurled red buttons. (Check out the LV Saber thread, I’m making blades now if you ever need one)

I recommend VHB tape or 3M clear trim mounting tape - the more boring and industrial looking the better, that tape is hard to remove. Of course e6000 and the 3M clear tape are easy to remove.

Graflexes are nickel plated. It would take abrasives or power tools to break through the outer layer, you won’t damage it with glue or tape - as long as the plating isn’t already coming off. That’s a restoration issue and a whole other problem.

Yes I would grab a replica button, that’s what I’ve done when I didn’t have extra full knurl buttons. Also, it is a rather common American nicely made camera flash. Don’t worry about dinging it up, scratching it or altering it, it’s your flash and totally okay to take some abuse. These ones were designed to be tougher in the first place, but it’s a movie prop now

Thanks thd9791, I'm researching now, I'll figure out the right thing to do with my one in the end.

I used 3M tape in the past for some grips so I may end up using that, I've bought some e6000 but I feel like I'm going to end up getting it everywhere if I use it for my grips, I might use the e6000 for the kobold clip though.

Nickel plated, ah okay I was under the impression it was an easy to peel off chrome type layer, that's a relief. I didn't want to end up damaging it. The plating appears to be holding strong.

I think a replica button might be the answer unless I happen upon an original one for a reasonable price at some point. I imagine this build will take a while so I may hold out to find the original one eventually. I know they are a common object, but to me it's a sacred, precious artefact from a bygone era and the genesis of my love for sci-fi, so a ding, a scratch or altering it in anyway would be completely reprehensible. Most things I'm happy to beat up and drill holes in all over the shop, but this is Luke Skywalker's Lightsaber (at least that's who it belongs it if you'd asked 8 year old me).

 

[thd9791]

Haha you’re right!

I forgot the clamp is sheet steel and also plated. Unfortunately, rust can open the plating and get it starting to peel - I’ve had this happen to 1 or 2 clamps over the years.

 

[mikesprops]

Haha you’re right!

I forgot the clamp is sheet steel and also plated. Unfortunately, rust can open the plating and get it starting to peel - I’ve had this happen to 1 or 2 clamps over the years.

Yep, I've also got two clamps afflicted with that sickness. At least it's only the clamps though, and I think it gives them a bit of an interesting weathered look.