E-11 Help for a novice please....

Fry01

New Member
I'm just starting up an E-11. Just resin, as thats all I can afford on my budget, But I just finished a DL-44 and it's turned out really well so I'm gaining confidence. But as a novice builder I'm still lost on a couple of small details....

Can anyone give me the dimensions of the scope rail? - I know that thickness is often down to preference, but I need the width and length please....

secondly..

Should I weather it? I realise the original props went to hell and back, But 'In Universe' would the Empire look after its weapons better than a Smuggler and his trusty blaster......?

many thanks in advance........
 
Can anyone give me the dimensions of the scope rail? - I know that thickness is often down to preference, but I need the width and length please....

Depends on the model you are copying...

The rail starts at the first vent hole and either goes straight into the rear sight or stops just shy of the rear sight and terminates in an angled bend that is mounted to the body of the gun...

For the width 10mm is a good starting point as that will fit inside the rear sight without issue... But most probably use 1/2" and just grind it a little if you do the sight mount version or leave it full if you tube mount...

Should I weather it? I realise the original props went to hell and back, But 'In Universe' would the Empire look after its weapons better than a Smuggler and his trusty blaster......?

That is up to you, but fact is in the real world service guns are not always brand new and pretty...
 
ah thanks for those rail tips.... They'll give me a good start. as for the weathering I'll probably go for light weathering on all the 'working' parts, and to bring out the grip diamonds....
 
Yeah, I'd vote "light weathering", even on a non-imperial-used blaster, thinking that weapons need to be maintained well to keep working. Maybe some chips or sratches on the butt, or places metal would strike metal?
 
ah thanks for those rail tips.... They'll give me a good start. as for the weathering I'll probably go for light weathering on all the 'working' parts, and to bring out the grip diamonds....

Make sure you paint the grips a different shade of black to the rest as they are plastic and the rest is metal.

I see you're using the doopydoos kit too and it's great. Unfortunately, one way the proof houses in the UK stop people removing the barrel (it's illegal over here) is to weld up the bolts that hold the barrel in. So drill those out and replace them with some bolts of your own.

After that you're all good.
 
Make sure you paint the grips a different shade of black to the rest as they are plastic and the rest is metal.

I see you're using the doopydoos kit too and it's great. Unfortunately, one way the proof houses in the UK stop people removing the barrel (it's illegal over here) is to weld up the bolts that hold the barrel in. So drill those out and replace them with some bolts of your own.

After that you're all good.

Ah brilliant... I saw the stuff about the bolts in the other thread, and I've got a couple handy that came out of the back of a gutted PC that will be just right. BTW what shade do you suggest for the grips? I'm going for a Satin finish overall, do you suggest Gloss enamel?..
 
It's not quite gloss it's more like a shinier satin, if that even makes sense. :)

But gloss knocked back a bit would probably look fine.

This is a bad picture but this was taken when I started my real parts builds, look at the grips and compare them to the magazine on the right you can see the difference. If you need a better photo I can snap one tomorrow.

 
Thats a realy nice pic. Thank you.. although I may be misunderstanding what the Grips are..... Intially I was thinking the grips were just the Diamond patterned area on the sides of the Handgrip, but am I to understand that it is in fact the whole handgrip, right up to the barrel?
 
Yeah, it goes up to the receiver. This should show what I mean but is also better for comparing the colour of the grip to the mag.

 
Thats absolutely brilliant, it illustrates the difference perfectly! Thank you so much for the help and info.. I really appreciate it.
 
But keep in mind - they mainly are so shiny due to years/decades of handling, that polishes the surface to the level we know. Brand new they are between a "shiny dull" and satin (if that makes any sense, hard to explain :confused ).
 
This thread is more than 12 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top