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[pengbuzz]

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[greenmachines]

UPDATE: Nearing the end of this build-

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I managed to get Bixby Snyder into the diorama; he had to go on the side though:

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And of course, another newspaper:

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I built in a brace to hold Murphy so he doesn't fall over on display:

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New pistons on ball-joints; the old ones kept snapping off their mounts (got the idea from the Hot Toys version):

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Alternate head for Murphy (finally managed to get it to work); not 100 percent convinced it looks like Peter Weller, but I'm not going to keep fighting with this. It is what it is:

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( NOT A FAN of Robert Burke, Richard Eden or Page Fletcher's versions).


And of course, the Robocop logo; this was a pain to hand-draw and ink, but it seemed worth it:

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So, some issues (like the shininess and such) will be solved down the road. But overall, I'm satisfied with the project.

Thanks for watching folks! See you next time!!!



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STAY OUT OF TROUBLE.

Um wow, looking like a scene straight from the movie. I, personally, do see Weller in the face but I can sense the perfectionist coming on so I'm sure you will tweak some more.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Looking cool. And nicely done. Peter Weller's face is in that sculpt... seems pretty convincing. You may want to tone down the shine on the face though. He always seemed a little dry.

 

[pengbuzz]

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[pengbuzz]

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[pengbuzz]

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[Gregatron]

Fabulous job.

And there’s something refreshing about the handcrafted aspect of the newspapers and the logo and whatnot. Perfectly imperfect.

 

[pengbuzz]

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[real9thdoctor]

UPDATE: As promised, the foiling process I use (learned it from Fine Scale Modeler):


1) Make sure the area to be foiled is clean; use rubbing alcohol to wipe away any debris, residual mold release or skin oil.

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2) apply the foil evenly; I tend to "roll" it across the surface slowly so that it minimizes air bubbles getting trapped. Run your fingernail along the edge to "mark out" where you want to trim the foil.

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3) After trimming, use a burnisher (mine is an old Xacto version with a ball on one end and a large flat plastic blade on the other) to smooth down the foil. Prick any air bubbles with the tip of an Xacto knife and smooth down with the burnishing tool.

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4) Use 400 grit (or finer) sandpaper to give the foil a "brushed metal" look; make sure to go in one direction only, and be careful of how much pressure you use in sanding the foil. Too much can tear it and make a mess with the adhesive. For fine or detailed areas: cut the foil into smaller sections and burnish starting with a cotton swab. then move to using a toothpick for panel lines and finely detailed nooks and crannies.

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5) After sanding the foil lightly, use #0000 steel wool to smooth it and burnish it down further.

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6) After buffing with the steel wool, go over the details one more time with either a cotton swab or toothpick, re-buff with steel wool, then blow whatever debris from the steel wool off with compressed air/ hair dryer/ your breath. Wipe down one last time with rubbing alcohol, then seal with your usual brand of clearcoat (particularly if you want the "laminated titanium" look of Robo here):

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Stay tuned...Murphy's law head is next....

I used bare metal foil for a while on some Transformers and other mecha figure and models. While it goes on well and looks good at first, over time it has slowly tore off, especially on the Transformer figures.

If I had to do it again I'd spend for those molotw paint pens(which I did for my Diaclone Great Robot Base conversion of a Metroplex toy, as I knew the foil would not last). They require a LONG time to dry, like days or a week, but look like chrome and if cleacoated with the right clearcoat like Tamiya gloss clear will not dull and won't wear off. Depending on the parts, you may not even need to clearcoat.

 

[greenmachines]

I used bare metal foil for a while on some Transformers and other mecha figure and models. While it goes on well and looks good at first, over time it has slowly tore off, especially on the Transformer figures.

If I had to do it again I'd spend for those molotw paint pens(which I did for my Diaclone Great Robot Base conversion of a Metroplex toy, as I knew the foil would not last). They require a LONG time to dry, like days or a week, but look like chrome and if cleacoated with the right clearcoat like Tamiya gloss clear will not dull and won't wear off. Depending on the parts, you may not even need to clearcoat.

You just answered a question from another longstanding thread about metallic paint dulling when clearcoated. If I find the other thread, I will link both ways.

 

[pengbuzz]

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[real9thdoctor]

I tried molotow and it didn't work for me very well. The foil I use is regular hvac tape, burnished down hard. Transformers tend to be a bit different, so a paint may work better on them.

The only evidence I have is on my GRBPLEX. And alot of that is sheet styrene. I have no clue why its worked well for me. Unless its because I clearcoated. I waited a week before clearcoating, so maybe that was why. Dunno.