Blockade runner kit completed pics are up...

About 27" long, the preorders are all done but normal ordering may resume in a week or so. Yet another kit i cant wait for.
 
<div class='quotetop'>(streetjudge79 @ May 30 2006, 11:20 AM) [snapback]1253007[/snapback]</div>
How do we contact Randy for a kit?
[/b]
Click to expand...

I contacted a guy with the name "AnubisPro" over at the starship modeler boards

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/php...pic.php?t=36504

He is handling the sales and distrubution for Randy Cooper as I understand it. in any case he's the guy to talk to. I beleive all you need to do is paypal the money to his account and your on the list :)

Jedi Dade
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Jedi Dade @ May 31 2006, 08:50 AM) [snapback]1253633[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>(streetjudge79 @ May 30 2006, 11:20 AM) [snapback]1253007[/snapback]
Click to expand...
How do we contact Randy for a kit?
[/b]
Click to expand...

I contacted a guy with the name "AnubisPro" over at the starship modeler boards

http://www.starshipmodeler.net/cgi-bin/php...pic.php?t=36504

He is handling the sales and distrubution for Randy Cooper as I understand it. in any case he's the guy to talk to. I beleive all you need to do is paypal the money to his account and your on the list :)

Jedi Dade
[/b][/quote]

And I am also AnubisPro here too. :p
(The same one that "Raised Eyebrows" earlier on this board over my association with Paul Francis).

I have been handling the sales end of Randy's business so he could focus on getting out the products.

If anyone here is still interested in doing business with me, you can drop me an email at dabar1@sbcglobal.net, give me your addy so I can calculate shipping and I will give you the amount to PayPal me. The "Consular's Ship" is $350.00 + S&H ($20.00 extra for 11 clear engine inserts)
We are currently filling pre-order kits but should be shipping new orders in 3-4 weeks.

It is a substancial kit, not for the beginner. It weighs in at about 10 lbs, and is mostly hollow.
The bridge is hollow with some detail inside, but if you want to light the engines you will want the clear inserts.
I would prefer to answer general questions about the kit on this thread, not my personal email. I want to limit that to ordering/accounting information.
 
:cry It's beautiful, but there's no way I can spend that much on a model kit. It looks to be worth every penny... just out of my budget. Good luck to the guys who can handle the price tag. Please post lots of pics when you get your kits.
 
So excited for this. It was 1978 (second run theaters) when I first saw this ship soar across the screen... and that's where it began for me.

Any good advice for a lighting newb on what to do with lighting the engines? I think this one absolutley needs the engines lit. Haven't seen the final cockpit, but could likely use lighting too.
 
The cockpit is hollow and in two halves LTSO, should make lighting a breeze, but id like some tips on lighting too, my speeder and the RBR will be my first go at it.
 
The trouble I have when I light a kit is I want it all.. By that I mean I want to be able to take it off its stand and have it lit and fly it around the room. I also never want to change the batteries, and never have a light burn out. In most cases this is not possible Usually the best way is to put the "power" of the lighting in a base/stand and have the lights be long lasting LEDs that "plug into" the stand when the model rests on it. but I never seem satisfied when I do that...

I've experimented with rechargable batteries hidden in the model that "charge" when its on the stand - like portable house phones, but I never seem to get it to work out right. MY best luck has been to work it through a permanently attached base or stand and go from there. Put all of the transformer or batteries with the appropraite resistors in the base and run a single pair of wires into the model that then split off and power all of the lights. For this I have found that the old Mono headphone jacks work pretty well. It makes a relatively small hole in the model that "plugs" itself into the stand. Unfortunately this only works small models that don't weigh much. This sucker is going to be heavy, so I'm going to have to experiment a bit. At a quick look it appears as though there is enough room to place batteries inside of the model if that is the case then I just need to figure out a way to change the batteries - a removable access panel of some kind. The good news is that this model looks to made from a lot of sub assemblies so that of a clever way of attaching them can be figured out it might not be able to be seen at all ;) I was reading over at the starship modeler site about using high strength magnets to hold access panels on. I've never tried that but it sounds like a cool idea.

This model is going to the top of my build list - and one of the first things I'm going to do is figure out a good way to light it ;) I think that about a dozen super bright LEDs is a good start to that project ;)

Jedi Dade
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Jedi Dade @ Jun 5 2006, 04:20 PM) [snapback]1256812[/snapback]</div>
The good news is that this model looks to made from a lot of sub assemblies so that of a clever way of attaching them can be figured out it might not be able to be seen at all ;) I was reading over at the starship modeler site about using high strength magnets to hold access panels on. I've never tried that but it sounds like a cool idea.
[/b]
Click to expand...

I have used that method myself on FX jobs, I used Neodymium magnets to hold the access pannels on the Bicentennial Man robot suits. If they can survive Robin Williams jumping around, then they should work well for a display model.
IIRC, You can order them from scientific supply companies.
They make some very small and powerful magnets,...NOT the type found at Radio Shack,(only good for refrigerators).
 
<div class='quotetop'>(micdavis @ Jun 5 2006, 04:35 PM) [snapback]1256881[/snapback]</div>
So is it:

TAN-TIVE

or

TAN-TA-VEE

???
[/b]
Click to expand...

On the old Star Wars NPR Radio Show, it was pronounced Tan-TUH-vee.
 
TAN-tuh-vee, actually, on the radio show (which originated the name).

I heard, however, that in one of the recent video games the "tan tiive" pronunciation was used. But that's just the video game voiceover director not being familiar with the radio show. The radio show is higher on the canonical ladder. ;)
 
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