Anyone ever baked resin?

CTF

Sr Member
The local vac-metallizer suggested that I bake some resin pulls, at 'round 70ºC, for an hour before I send them to be plated. That way the pieces shrink before they start the plating process (which also includes baking them for an hour). I've never applied heat to a resin pull before... so I'm not too sure of it.

Has anyone done this before?
 
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The local vac-metallizer suggested that I bake some resin pulls, at 'round 70ºC, for an hour before I send them to be plated. That way the pieces shrink before they start the plating process (which also includes baking them for an hour). I've never applied heat to a resin pull before... so I'm a bit weary of it.

Has anyone done this before?


David Merriman gives a DVD tutorial on scratchbuilding upgrades to a 57" seaview kit. He's an opinionated curmudgeon, and I love every bit of his attitude. :thumbsup Wish he were my pop.

One of his tips is that he uses a cardboard box with a lightbulb which "bakes" his resin.


The DVD is really worth it.

-DM
 
Yeah, I'll go with baking it in an oven at the temperature I've been told... but I'm just a bit unsure what to expect.
 
Super sculpey is baked at around 120 degrees Celsius, less, if you want to bake it longer. Be aware that unsupported resin will sag, even at temperatures as low as 70 and it may be difficult to get it back to its original shape. You can support it with tin-foil rolled into balls or square strips.

Check on it frequently through the gate to make sure it doesn't begin to smoke or discolor.
 
Well... I tried with a figure sculpt where the thin legs sagged. What kind of piece are we talking about here? The thicker, the more solid it is and the less sagging you will get... with thin pieces the sagging is minimal, so naturally, with thicker pieces the sagging is nearly non-existent.
 
Ah, that sounds a bit better.

The piece is almost a solid block of resin: 20 x 18 x 18 cm (give or take...)
 
Well, then I won't expect any warping or sagging... but... keep checking it.

If you have something less important, but similar in shape, try it out with that first.
 
With vacuum metalisation any moisture will also cause problems in pump down time and base pressure. If the material outgasses during processing then it can lead to unstable vacuum, poor metal adhesion and poor uniformity. So baking will also cure any moisture problems. If you are worried about the effects of the bake try a lower temperature for a longer period of time.

Chris
 
I'd be more worried about the cooking resin in your oven. Will that release tiny particles that will land on any food you bake in there later on?
 
Umm,
doesn't the MSDS have this information listed on the resin you're using. resins can take an extreme amount of heat for the most part, but the MSDS should tell you what heat it's capable of. If you don't know the MSDS of your partuicular resin, look it up online from the manufacturer..just a thought of course.
Will
 
I'd be more worried about the cooking resin in your oven. Will that release tiny particles that will land on any food you bake in there later on?

Would this be done in your kitchen or a lab/workshop oven?

I would be somewhat concerned about the potential health hazards of baking the resin your kitchen. Even if it does not leave any residue in the oven, it may release toxic and/or foul smelling fumes into the kitchen.
 
I've baked and boiled resin when faced with curing problems that weren't evident until I went to paint.

I bake all of my clear resin casts at 100 deg. F to cure them........it there is an issue with weeping on solid non clear parts I also bake them to fix the problem.....................Boiling it hot water I use for fixing a slight warp or such!! I use a small toaster oven in my shop as the fumes can get a little iffy...........picked the oven up at Good Will for 7 bucks! :love
 
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