Advice on negative molds

Ood sigma

Active Member
Hi, I'm making a full head mask, I'm probably going to make it in Latex as I'm new to this and don't want to run before I can walk, but I'd like to make a negative mold I can use multiple times, and preferably to use on latex foam or silicon at a later date.

Can anyone point me in the directions of good tutorials?

Or give advice on this
 
TheEffectsLab.com :: Index is also a useful resource.

I used Neill Gorton's DVDs for tackling my Voldemort build, and that was brilliant. The way he explains stuff is great if you're a newbie like me.

I bought the boxset but that wouldnt all be relevant for you if you're doing latex, as it focuses on Silicone builds, BUT, you can buy each DVD seperately as well, so I think DVD 1 or 3 may help (from memory, I think DVD 1 covers it in better detail - DVD 3 just recaps but with a few slight differences as you're trying to do something slightly different by this step):

Compilation set - The Art of Silicone Prosthetics - Millennium FX
 
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This DVD has some great info for someone just getting into mold making. It's def worth checking out. Prices can varie so just google mark alfrey's standard molds and castings.

One things though, for silicone pieces you would have to make a seperate mold.

Good luck!
 
If you run Latex in the mold first (any kind of latex) you will not be able to do silicon in the same mold as it will not cure properly or at all.
 
To make latex masks you'll need a plaster or stone mould, i use both fine casting and herculite for my plaster moulds, you need plaster as the mould absorbs the moisture from the latex leaving a rubber build up inside the mask,you can't do this with a silicone or fibreglass mould.
You need to make a two part mould, so i build a clay wall at the midpoint of the sculpture, usually going ear to ear, making the wall 90 degree's to your sculpt. it needs to be completely flush to your sculpture, with no gaps or iregularity's or you will end up with an awkward seam to remove, heres a pic of a sculpt i finished with the clay wall applied and just about ready for casting the first half
101_0040.jpg

you'll also see i added keys to the wall so that once the plaster is put on the next half will fit properly.
I seal the clay sculpt and clay wall with a couple of light coats of krystal clear followed by a matting spray, this stops the plaster beading up on the surface , i then mix up a small batch of plaster and do the detail coat, brushing the plaster on and making sure it gets into all the details, once that sets up, i add thickened plaster over this with strips of hessian cut into strips, this adds strength to your finished mould, other people use hemp or angel hair, but this works for me
once you have moulded the first half, turn over the sculpt, remove the clay wall, and use vaseline or a spray release on the exposed plaster wall, otherwise if you don't seal it the plaster will stick to itself and you'll never get the mould apart, and do the same again on the back half of the sculpt.
i leave the mould to set up overnight, pry it apart, clean out the clay, clean with alchohol and a small brush to remove any residue, and then put the mould back together, tape or tie the two halves together, spritz the inside with a spray bottle of water,(this helps eliminate bubbles in your latex casting, by drawing air from the fresh plaster).
i fill the mould completely with latex, leave for an hour or two, then empty it out, leave overnight upended to drain and dry, then powder the inside of the mould with baby powder, latex will stick to itself if you don't powder it.
finally open your mould, trim the seam with cuticle scissors and or a dremmel with a cotton or felt wheel added clean and paint.
mark alfrey's standard moulds and castings is a great dvd for mould making
 
WOW, Thanks Frosty, and thanks to all of you who have commented, Im feeling alot better armed now :)

A few questions though:

everything I have read talks about water based clay being best for use as a clay wall, I went to my local hobbie craft, and they didnt sell any clay that identified itself as water based, is there another name for it?

When you say about spraying it with Krystal clear and matting spray, can the clay be reused again later, or does it have to be chucked out?

with the hessian strips, can modroc be used as a substitute?

and finally, can any shop bought plaster of paris be used, or is it certain types of plaster that are needed?


I hope these questions dont seem too stupid, but Im a newbie, and really appreciate all your help with me learning
 
I use hessian strips to add strength, you don't really need it if your just doing a few casts, water based clay comes in a few different forms, potters clay, air drying clay, etc etc, i use a grey modeling clay, works well.
I resoak and reuse all my water based clays, i have an old bin i put clay walls and old sculpts in, i add water and leave it a couple of days, then i reuse, never had a problem.
 
I see Forsty has it mostly covered. ;) But I'll add you can use burlap strips for strengthening your mold as well.
 
Yes burlap works to, i'm sure theres lots of other ways to do it, feel free to chime in, he's after a few different opinions after all
 
yeah I used modrock fine - you dont need a really rigid wall - just enough to support the clay wall whilst you're working on it to smooth it off.

Re the clay - just "grey" clay is fine. Are you in the UK? If you are, check out the Tiranti website (Grey Clay 5kg Stonecarving, Woodcarving, Modelling, Sculptor supplies, Tools, Materials-Alec Tiranti products) - they also do big 25kg bags which can be more cost effective (Grey Clay 25kg Stonecarving, Woodcarving, Modelling, Sculptor supplies, Tools, Materials-Alec Tiranti products)
 
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