Advice Needed: Imprinting crisp indented letters into master for mold creation

holtt

Active Member
I want to cast a part in resin that has indented letters which will be filled with paint - exactly like the kind of thing you see on old meters like the one below...

$T2eC16Z,!)8E9s4l8BDPBRr6!pcl3w~~60_35.JPG

In fact what I want to do is cast a new front panel for that same meter, but with different lettering.

Does anyone have any advice on exactly how to do that in a very clear and crisp way? I could certainly create a master and use letter punches to create indented letters, but I imagine the consistency of imprint depth as well as letter alignment won't be perfect unless I come up with some kind of jig and device.
 
I've gotten plastic laser cut before based on a vector design I created, then used the laser cut pieces as a master. It can all be placed on a transfer sheet, so all the tiny pieces (for the holes in the "o's" and "a's" etc.) will stick in exactly the right spot. I did this for the shoes of my Good Guy doll and it worked perfectly. In that situation, the recessed letters are quite deep. For something like this, you would need them much shallower, so the plastic used would be thinner.
 
Get it lasered onto a piece of metal and then imbed it into the plastic. There are a ton of online stores who do name plates and similar stuff.
 
Save your money on laser cutting. If you have gone to the trouble of doing the vector artwork, task it to a sign shop and have them cut it into sign vinyl. Leave a large enough 'field' around the design to cover your plate and then weed out the ins does of the letters instead of the borders. presto, instant recessed letters. Place it on your cover or piece of blank plastic for your new cover and trim to fit. Once all the bubbles are squeegeed out, you should be able to use it as is, or use it for your mold master and cast it up.
 
Depending on how fine the letters are, vinyl cutting doesn't always work. I've gone to sign shops before and been turned away because my artwork was too fine. But if isn't, then that is definitely a good, cheaper route.

Laser cutting actually isn't all that expensive though. The place I go to locally is pretty reasonable, especially for small projects like this.
 
Last edited:
I am not sure how the material would hold up during a molding-session, but you could have it 3D printed in opposite form?
 
Back
Top