Right on the money! FDM printers will always need a fair amount of post processing work. It's part of its charm haha. SLA is a bit better but the tech needs to grow a bit as well. Basically none of the consumer grade printers will allow for post processing free printing
I love PLA and for anything except super-detail work I prefer it to anything I've done with a "pro print shop" It's
much more durable than the uv-cured resins and has better surface area than the commonly used nylon powders. (Protip: you can also glue it with plexiglass cement and the bond will be mega-strong.) I'm sure there are high-end materials that are both durable and clean in terms of print quality, but for anything that falls into the "affordable" realm I've found that you will be hard to beat a finely tuned "prosumer grade" printer if you keep to the high end.
It's also a matter of time. I understand the Ultimaker will print as fine as .20 microns but it would probably take a few weeks to print something as large as a blaster.
Layer height resolution is actually not that important. In fact, printing at 20 microns can be detrimental to the final result if you rely on precise measurements because the motors used for the Z-axis have a hard time actually keeping a consistent level that low. So if you're unlucky, you will end up with a print that is several mm off in height since even a small deviation per layer, spread over 1000s of layers makes a big difference. You also have to consider the XY axis, which as still considerably rougher, as well as the nozzle size. If you want truly good results with a prosumer printer (Ultimakers, makerbots and so on) it will
still take a very long time to print, even if you do it at 100 microns, because so many other factors decide the quality besides layer height. (A typical time for me is 5-10 days for something like a Star Lord boot rocket or larger hand weapon/gadget if run the machine every night.)
I am thinking about an 89 belt buckle and pods, If I go to a high end Pro 3D business what quality is the best at the moment.
I actually made a functional printed 89 buckle a while back. For something like that you definitely don't want to use a material that is even the slightest bit fragile.
But steer this back on-topic, the print MeoWorks posted above will likely stand
stomping on if it's got a good fill structure and it'll be easier to handle than resin all around.