Real Graflex based Luke Skywalker ANH Light Saber Project Build
- Thread starter George L.
- Start date
-
- Tags
- star wars a new hope
George L.
Active Member
Thanks everyone, as mentioned elsewhere my head is now *really* spinning. No wonder all the replica ANH strips are clear, very interesting.
Sure glad I have not modified the original yet in any way, put in in a bag for now. Replica re-installed.
Dang it Jim!, I'm not a doctor, I only build sabers...
---
Sure glad I have not modified the original yet in any way, put in in a bag for now. Replica re-installed.
Dang it Jim!, I'm not a doctor, I only build sabers...
---
George L.
Active Member
2016.04.07 : the search for available Sound Modules and blade emitter LED's :
As far as the saber emitter/blade LED, my original still has had a single die white Luxeon ~5 watt emitter with a CF v3 (now not working) Sound Board to back it up. It was the brightest I could find at the time looking at all the spec's. Now I see _everything_ has changed.
We now have Tri-color and separate emitter dies? The blue/blue/white triple die LED combination looks promising for the ANH saber using the white as flash effect (using a proper Sound Module I do not have yet = a hopefully a CF v8). Actually, on the original mentioned above I had just barely tinted the blade with a Cyan theatrical filter/gel installed in front of the LED/blade mounted in the TGS blade holder. If you remember, the original ANH movie showed a bright white/blue saber discharge, and understandably due to the actual film's and color saturation and white balance at the time, post edit and probably other factors.
A slightly filtered white LED source is still more apparent in brightness to the eye than an equivalent specified -> blue spectrum LED output.
Of course, the latter movies had the blade lean more to an actual 'blue tint'. That is understandable with CGI and rendering.
There are some awesome builds out there and VERY bright true blue blades. Sure will have to research this some more... now back to the 'net.
Cheers
---
As far as the saber emitter/blade LED, my original still has had a single die white Luxeon ~5 watt emitter with a CF v3 (now not working) Sound Board to back it up. It was the brightest I could find at the time looking at all the spec's. Now I see _everything_ has changed.
We now have Tri-color and separate emitter dies? The blue/blue/white triple die LED combination looks promising for the ANH saber using the white as flash effect (using a proper Sound Module I do not have yet = a hopefully a CF v8). Actually, on the original mentioned above I had just barely tinted the blade with a Cyan theatrical filter/gel installed in front of the LED/blade mounted in the TGS blade holder. If you remember, the original ANH movie showed a bright white/blue saber discharge, and understandably due to the actual film's and color saturation and white balance at the time, post edit and probably other factors.
A slightly filtered white LED source is still more apparent in brightness to the eye than an equivalent specified -> blue spectrum LED output.
Of course, the latter movies had the blade lean more to an actual 'blue tint'. That is understandable with CGI and rendering.
There are some awesome builds out there and VERY bright true blue blades. Sure will have to research this some more... now back to the 'net.
Cheers
---
Captain April
Sr Member
Very cool, has anyone ever produced a tapered saber blade?
George L.
Active Member
Re: Vintage Graflex Luke ANH light saber build - bubble strip comparisons
Exactra 20 BUBBLE STRIP Update
Finally received a 'different' Exactra 20 Calculator from fellow RPF member Edraven99. He contacted me as he indicated there were different PCB types where the Exacta bubble strip mounts, he also indicated that the Bubble Strips from the calculators differ, who would have known? Since I am building an Luke ANH vintage G R A F L E X replica and he is building a Vader ANH replica it was pointed out that the bubble strips have different bases or outlines just under and around the actual bubbles. I am told that tehe screen used Luke ANH version has a more clear base and Vader's ANH is more frosted. Well anyway, had the chance to take pictures of both 'types' of Extra 20 calculators to do some comparison and reference for all of us saber freaks. So here we go:
First here is the back of both Exactra 20 calculators, mine with the frosted strip is on the left, clear strip on the right. Notice closely the frosted version is marked EX-20 and the clear is marked TI-20 (on the upper left, under battery compartment).
Closeup of rear of the EX-20 frosted version:
Closeup of rear of the TI-20 clear version:
Closeup of frosted:
Closeup of clear:
Side-by-side, frosted left clear right:
2 angled views, frosted top, clear bottom:
There is definitely a difference, at some viewing angles more than others and dependent on ambient lighting. Also you can see the different colored PCB's under the strips. I'm not sure if the rear EX-20 and TI-20 markings are related to the strip types, or it's just a manufacturing difference using what ever strips they had on hand at the time.
Hope you have found this helpful and maybe some here can shed some more light on the subject of Luke ANH = clear and Vader ANH = frosted.
I'm just glad I had not fit my strip into the Graflex clamp yet, seeing for 9 years of storage I just might have the wrong one. Again, let me know what you think. Will this later when I actually get up the nerve to fit the clear strip into my build.
Cheers,
Chip
---
Exactra 20 BUBBLE STRIP Update
Finally received a 'different' Exactra 20 Calculator from fellow RPF member Edraven99. He contacted me as he indicated there were different PCB types where the Exacta bubble strip mounts, he also indicated that the Bubble Strips from the calculators differ, who would have known? Since I am building an Luke ANH vintage G R A F L E X replica and he is building a Vader ANH replica it was pointed out that the bubble strips have different bases or outlines just under and around the actual bubbles. I am told that tehe screen used Luke ANH version has a more clear base and Vader's ANH is more frosted. Well anyway, had the chance to take pictures of both 'types' of Extra 20 calculators to do some comparison and reference for all of us saber freaks. So here we go:
First here is the back of both Exactra 20 calculators, mine with the frosted strip is on the left, clear strip on the right. Notice closely the frosted version is marked EX-20 and the clear is marked TI-20 (on the upper left, under battery compartment).
Closeup of rear of the EX-20 frosted version:
Closeup of rear of the TI-20 clear version:
Closeup of frosted:
Closeup of clear:
Side-by-side, frosted left clear right:
2 angled views, frosted top, clear bottom:
There is definitely a difference, at some viewing angles more than others and dependent on ambient lighting. Also you can see the different colored PCB's under the strips. I'm not sure if the rear EX-20 and TI-20 markings are related to the strip types, or it's just a manufacturing difference using what ever strips they had on hand at the time.
Hope you have found this helpful and maybe some here can shed some more light on the subject of Luke ANH = clear and Vader ANH = frosted.
I'm just glad I had not fit my strip into the Graflex clamp yet, seeing for 9 years of storage I just might have the wrong one. Again, let me know what you think. Will this later when I actually get up the nerve to fit the clear strip into my build.
Cheers,
Chip
---
Attachments
Jedi Reali
Sr Member
Ahh, so cool you found a frosted version! I've bought two 19's and two 20's, and all four are the clear version. I woulda made that trade too, Edraven99 lucked out. Well you both made out! 
I just recently (finally) installed one of my Exactras into my ANH saber too. Good luck with the rest of your build! :thumbsup
I just recently (finally) installed one of my Exactras into my ANH saber too. Good luck with the rest of your build! :thumbsup
Jedi Reali
Sr Member
I have both an EX-20 and a TI-20, and they both have the same all clear bubble strip. Also have two EX-19's with the same clear bubble strips.
George L.
Active Member
Ahh, so cool you found a frosted version! I've bought two 19's and two 20's, and all four are the clear version. I woulda made that trade too, Edraven99 lucked out. Well you both made out!
I just recently (finally) installed one of my Exactras into my ANH saber too. Good luck with the rest of your build! :thumbsup
Same to you. This is an Interesting subject is it not? Learn the ways of the Exactra 20 you will. Do you have a build link?
Jedi Reali
Sr Member
Thanks, it sure is!
Not really a build thread, but I did just post up my Graflexes since I finally finished them recently. I figure Graflex builds have been documented so many times over, but no one ever seems to get tired of lookin at pretty photos of them.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=260361
Not really a build thread, but I did just post up my Graflexes since I finally finished them recently. I figure Graflex builds have been documented so many times over, but no one ever seems to get tired of lookin at pretty photos of them.
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=260361
George L.
Active Member
So, another EX-20 with frosted strip, very interesting indeed... I wonder if this has been discussed before. Thanks for sharing this, that makes 2 EX-20's that are frosted.
and the other member here: Jedi Raeali:
And now, EX and TI are both clear strips...
Is this place not a great source of information or what. Now I am left with the EX and TI does not matter. There are two of us here confirmed the EX has frosted and the TI has clear. Now we have another that has both and say's they are clear based. Maybe related to serial numbers on the rear of the back or date of manufacture (DOM), and NOT the EX nor TI designation. Again, let's bump to a new thread on this and start an "The Exactra Calculator - a Bubble Strip comparison and database" subject. Agreed?
Maybe we need to bump this to a thread possibly called "'Exactra 20 OEM Bubble Strip discussion' to another thread as this could get interesting.
[EDIT] new thread for the Exactra Bubble strip data "The Vintage Exactra Calculator - a Bubble Strip comparison and database" is now posted here, It sure will be interesting if enough members contribute (hint):
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=260479
Cheers,
Chip
---
Last edited:
Jedi Reali
Sr Member
It's all kinda gone down already in that other "Lightsaber Calculator Bubbles New Discovery" thread that you also posted in recently: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=73545
I shared photos of my four Exactras in post #71 on page 3.
Last edited:
George L.
Active Member
Copy, was just trying to gather the raw data in a simple format on an new thread thread to collect the Exactra data only. Agreed that thread mentioned is the granddaddy of all and I sure have learned a lot. If I need to cancel the data thread I started, let me know. Again ,it's just a format for Exactra data and nothing else (hopefully).
Cheers,
Chip
---
Jedi Reali
Sr Member
Just saw it, it's a good idea! I would suggest also including the tint of the calculator's screen in each info table.
George L.
Active Member
I have a few things to finish up on the vintage Graflex Luke ANH build.
1 - order a proper D-ring and clip. Looks like I'm going with the Wanna Wanga version for now:
http://wannawanga.com/products/d-ring-with-clip/
2 - either use the plastic t-tracks sent to me about 9 years ago, or order a set from Wanna Wanga:
http://wannawanga.com/products/t-track/
However, still very interested if someone has a definite description, in particular the height and the width of the original ANH t-tracks? I'm going with the plastic screen versions. The ones I have from saberfreak are brown in color. Also have notice the bottom of the plastic t-tracks on some are routed out with a round channel on the bottom and the ones I have are flat. I assume the rounded routing will make the t-tracks a lot easier to glue onto the Graflex housing. My question is, which version is more screen accurate? Did they glue on flat or routed/rounded bottom plastic t-tracks?
Here are the t-tracks (received about 9 years ago) from Saberfreak:
Let me know what you think.
Chip
---
1 - order a proper D-ring and clip. Looks like I'm going with the Wanna Wanga version for now:
http://wannawanga.com/products/d-ring-with-clip/
2 - either use the plastic t-tracks sent to me about 9 years ago, or order a set from Wanna Wanga:
http://wannawanga.com/products/t-track/
However, still very interested if someone has a definite description, in particular the height and the width of the original ANH t-tracks? I'm going with the plastic screen versions. The ones I have from saberfreak are brown in color. Also have notice the bottom of the plastic t-tracks on some are routed out with a round channel on the bottom and the ones I have are flat. I assume the rounded routing will make the t-tracks a lot easier to glue onto the Graflex housing. My question is, which version is more screen accurate? Did they glue on flat or routed/rounded bottom plastic t-tracks?
Here are the t-tracks (received about 9 years ago) from Saberfreak:
Let me know what you think.
Chip
---
Sym-Cha
Master Member
Hi Chip,
Have you read 'granddad's' recent thread about T-tracks? http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=253797
I'd create a tiny glue-channel myself on those real vintage brown T-tracks ... you could use a long enough file
and slowly grind away some plastic.
Then cut the proper angles : http://wannawanga.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/blueprint-Luke-ANH-2.jpg
before painting the parts black
Chaim
Have you read 'granddad's' recent thread about T-tracks? http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=253797
I'd create a tiny glue-channel myself on those real vintage brown T-tracks ... you could use a long enough file
and slowly grind away some plastic.
Then cut the proper angles : http://wannawanga.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/blueprint-Luke-ANH-2.jpg
before painting the parts black
Chaim
Similar threads
