Rey - Star Wars: The Force Awakens Build (open for everyone!)

Thank you! I have a set of 3D printed staff parts that aren't as nice as the ones I'm currently working with on my aluminum shaft staff. So I think I'll finish this one up because its so lovely and then make another with a wooden dowel or the double up PVC pipe idea (so clever!).

Thanks again everyone. Despite the set back (and the time I mixed up taupe and tan in my dye bath. :unsure) I'm having a really great time working on this costume. Its the first time I've done something like this. Been dreaming of it for over a year. Thanks for being an invaluable resource!
 
Hi everyone. I made this rinky paper mock up of the belt pouch using the pattern from Division 6 (huge thank you! for posting and sharing). Its not full scale, I just wanted to get a feel for how it fits together. I am wondering if anyone else who used this pattern and could say what the two leftover pieces are for.

1. the second top flap 3" x 13 (I assume it is to make the side of the top come down farther but why not just make the top longer to begin with?)
2. the side edge top bias little piece (I think this just caps off the side edge...but not sure which side, left or right.


20170328_154730.jpg20170328_154743.jpgpouch pattern copy.jpg
 
I believe the second flap top is because you're attempting to replicate the original pouch, and that "top" is very thick British webbing. So i reckon those two are meant to be stitched together and treated as one for stiffness.

The "side edge top bias" piece is meant to finish off the right top edge of the webbing of the main pouch body as you're looking at the pouch (this will be under the flap when the pouch is closed)
 
mbotastic said:
Hi everyone. I made this rinky paper mock up of the belt pouch using the pattern from Division 6 (huge thank you! for posting and sharing). Its not full scale, I just wanted to get a feel for how it fits together. I am wondering if anyone else who used this pattern and could say what the two leftover pieces are for.

1. the second top flap 3" x 13 (I assume it is to make the side of the top come down farther but why not just make the top longer to begin with?)
2. the side edge top bias little piece (I think this just caps off the side edge...but not sure which side, left or right.


View attachment 717570View attachment 717571View attachment 717572
Click to expand...

I made my pouch with this pattern, so I can tell you exactly how everything goes :p

Before that though, I would definitely make a mock up of the bag with scrap fabric and overlock stich any raw edges on the final as I learned the hard way just how much canvas likes to unravel!!!

As to the pattern, the two pieces marked 3"x 13" are meant to sandwich the sides of the top that come down. That is actually how the original WWII bag was constructed, and it gives you a much sturdier top.

The part marked side edge top bias you definitely need. You will need to cut two of them, for some reason it's not marked on the pattern. Also, there is not very much seam allowance in that bias part, so if you want to be able to fold the edges under for a clean edge you will need to add about half an inch for a 1/4" extra on each side. (Hope that makes sense, I promise, cloth mockups will really help!)
Also, the way I ended up doing the top after looking at pics of the original WWII bag it was taken from ended up making the top too small. I re-worked the pattern for the top to where I was happy with it. If you would like, I can post pics of my bag and the modified pattern this evening. It was the first part I did (though I haven't attached the webbing or alice clip yet :rolleyes).
 
mbotastic said:
Thank you! I have a set of 3D printed staff parts that aren't as nice as the ones I'm currently working with on my aluminum shaft staff. So I think I'll finish this one up because its so lovely and then make another with a wooden dowel or the double up PVC pipe idea (so clever!).

Thanks again everyone. Despite the set back (and the time I mixed up taupe and tan in my dye bath. :unsure) I'm having a really great time working on this costume. Its the first time I've done something like this. Been dreaming of it for over a year. Thanks for being an invaluable resource!
Click to expand...

Not sure how clever it was, but it worked. And I made my with a connector, too. Seems like a great idea, but I actually never break mine down because it's under the wrap, and that's a pain. Still, for Dragon Con, it'll break down. That's something.
 
K, so I found what looks like a good 3d print of the blaster at a pretty good price and I'm thinking of giving it a shot. Only issue, it doesn't seem to come with all of the screws, only ones for the most noticeable parts. Could someone please remind me what the screws are called and what sizes are needed for screen accuracy? It looks like there are two sizes in the pics.
 
Goldhawk said:
I made my pouch with this pattern, so I can tell you exactly how everything goes :p

Before that though, I would definitely make a mock up of the bag with scrap fabric and overlock stich any raw edges on the final as I learned the hard way just how much canvas likes to unravel!!!

As to the pattern, the two pieces marked 3"x 13" are meant to sandwich the sides of the top that come down. That is actually how the original WWII bag was constructed, and it gives you a much sturdier top.

The part marked side edge top bias you definitely need. You will need to cut two of them, for some reason it's not marked on the pattern. Also, there is not very much seam allowance in that bias part, so if you want to be able to fold the edges under for a clean edge you will need to add about half an inch for a 1/4" extra on each side. (Hope that makes sense, I promise, cloth mockups will really help!)
Also, the way I ended up doing the top after looking at pics of the original WWII bag it was taken from ended up making the top too small. I re-worked the pattern for the top to where I was happy with it. If you would like, I can post pics of my bag and the modified pattern this evening. It was the first part I did (though I haven't attached the webbing or alice clip yet :rolleyes).
Click to expand...

Thank you! I would greatly appreciate pictures of your finished bag if it’s not a hassle. Mostly I’m curious to see the seam construction around the front and back of the bag and how it is finished at the bags opening. I have some heavy weight fabric left over from making curtains that I’m going to use to make a mock up. Hopefully demystify some of this.

Thanks for all the tips! My seem allowance, double up the top, practice, practice, practice.
Onward.
 
Goldhawk said:
K, so I found what looks like a good 3d print of the blaster at a pretty good price and I'm thinking of giving it a shot. Only issue, it doesn't seem to come with all of the screws, only ones for the most noticeable parts. Could someone please remind me what the screws are called and what sizes are needed for screen accuracy? It looks like there are two sizes in the pics.
Click to expand...
there are at least 2 different sizes used on it, might be 3. They are stainless button head screws, but I don't know they exact screen accurate sizes. You might want to check in that thread about the blaster, i'm sure they have discussed it to death over there.
 
mbotastic said:
Thank you! I would greatly appreciate pictures of your finished bag if it’s not a hassle. Mostly I’m curious to see the seam construction around the front and back of the bag and how it is finished at the bags opening. I have some heavy weight fabric left over from making curtains that I’m going to use to make a mock up. Hopefully demystify some of this.

Thanks for all the tips! My seem allowance, double up the top, practice, practice, practice.
Onward.
Click to expand...

No problem! I'll get some up tonight.

Redwillow said:
there are at least 2 different sizes used on it, might be 3. They are stainless button head screws, but I don't know they exact screen accurate sizes. You might want to check in that thread about the blaster, i'm sure they have discussed it to death over there.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will.
 
20170402_210915.jpg 20170402_210936.jpg 20170402_210944.jpg 20170402_210955.jpg 20170402_211014.jpg 20170402_211020.jpg 20170402_212525.jpg 20170402_212650.jpg 20170402_212417.jpg

The pattern pieces show division 6's original pattern next to the modifications I made. I ended up modding the lid because when I folded everything up it came out too small. (I folded the lid seams on the sides under twice so they wouldn't ravel). Those are the only ones I changed.
 
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Hi everybody! This is my first post here so I wanted to start by thanking all the wonderful contributors to this thread who have been so helpful while I limped through this project! :) I'm down to the last piece I need to tackle, and I'm having trouble consolidating all the relevant information to it: the headwrap.

I have this fabric, but I'm not sure where to go from here. I've seen mixed comments on washing it first, dying it at all, and the specific pattern to cut it into. I would appreciate any guidance y'all can give me! Thank you!
 
Welcome. You need to wash it. And IMO it is much too light in its natural color, so you need to dye it. I think we did a mix of RIT taupe and pearl gray on it.
Make a long shirt shape from it with extra long sleeves like this.
IMG_0108.JPG

To get this.

IMG_0109.JPG

Leave the bottom long, then trim it to the proper size on you all around with it on. Frey the edges.
The head opening becomes the face of your wrap. Kristen had the idea to add elastic to the opening, which works well. Tip: it will be easier to elastic the opening if you orient the fabric so the opening has the selvage.

GF will be putting up a blog post on it sometime in the next couple months, probably......Right now im making some shoulder pads
IMG_0041.JPG
 
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Yup, what Redwillow said. Definitely wash it first. I actually hung it over the bar in my closet for a couple of days after that and that helped to straighten out the fabric. I had heard of doing that before and it really helped the fabric to lay right when I cut it out.
I just used the same pattern for my shirt but added sleeves. I believe Kristen posted a couple of pages back how she made her headwrap sleeves, and those were the instructions I used for that.
 
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A few pics from celebration orlando
IMG_0715.JPGIMG_0722.JPGIMG_0725.JPGIMG_0663.JPG

IMG_0719.JPG IMG_0693.JPG IMG_0690.JPG

There was a massive rey meet up, but i'll have to get some better quality photos as the crowd was huge around all the reys and most of mine were blocked. Whenever BB8 rolled by the crowds started to get big.
 
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That looks like a lot of fun! The costume looks really good, and so does the salvage bag. I guess your water bottle is functional? :)

On my progress, I obtained the Dharma Neutral Grey dye (the new one) and tried it today. It matches this picture's pants color perfectly.
1919118_1189157791111530_1778715976947379428_n.jpg



When I did the swatch it perfectly matched this color, but when I dyed the actual fabric I panicked that it would come out too dark, and it ended up being a little lighter, although still very similar.
TBH, you could use it for the color above, or this one:
IMG_20150419_125414963_zpspwunhv4g.jpgoriginal.jpg


I love it! I'll get more pics up of the fabric soon.
 
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Thank you, yes, the bottle is not a 3d print, it's one i made last year from a plastic soap bottle. Being able to keep a drink in there really comes in handy. I scratch built all our backpack parts.

Post up your progress pics when you get a chance!

There are some more pics of the bottle in progress if you go back about a year....here's one of it with just the cap done. You will want to rivet that side strap in about 3 spots if you do a usable bottle, to support the extra liquid weight.
IMG_0038.JPG
 

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