DL-44 ESB Blaster Discussion - Greeblies POST 208

Could not find the post, I searched but the post didn't come up.

Just got the measurements
the outer Diameter is: 23 mm
the inner Diameter is: 5 mm
the height is: 9 mm
 
Found the post finally. Looks like the disk is 27.06mm wide, so the brass pulley I found is a bust. :(

IMG_20150829_151604_zpszw2ysfiz.png


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Are we talking about the same? The disc with 3 holes in the outer rim, and the lower center?

No, This one. The other would with the three holes would fit, because it's a replacement for the part Thorens disk we want.

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I really want to build this blaster now, as I've seen it for real and it is only an MGC (not a real mauser, an impossibility for a Brit/Japan resident).

You know that the only restriction on deactivated guns in the UK is that you're over 18? They're actually less restricted than replica guns.
 
You know that the only restriction on deactivated guns in the UK is that you're over 18? They're actually less restricted than replica guns.

That's great! I bet they're stupidly rare though. I dunno how to get one while living in Japan though. Hopefully the law remains unchanged into the near future.
 
That's great! I bet they're stupidly rare though. I dunno how to get one while living in Japan though. Hopefully the law remains unchanged into the near future.

I saw Brit and missed the Japan resident bit. I'm assuming that Japan's law on deactivated firearms is ridiculously strict?

C96s in good condition are extremely expensive and dealers generally only import stuff if its high demand, extremely cheap or a particular nice (therefore expensive) example. You can make it a little more reasonable by asking them to look out for one for you and letting them know that you don't care about condition because you're going to be restoring and refinishing it.
 
Also on a different note, Master Replicas, who probably had really good reference material, also chose to put one distributor ring on Luke's ESB blaster. Though they also put the motor could plate on, and that's not in our photos
 

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Just went to the exhibition again, cloakroom was enforced so had to leave bag and dslr with them. Pocket camera only but got caught between getting it out and taking the shot. Got out a notebook and started writing in it and another lady asked me to stop using my pencil, then handed me a bizarre disposable plastic pencil that is like an ice cream spoon at the cinema. Why? No answer!. Abeno Harukas Art Museum sucks.

Anyway I wrote with it.

-Flash hider is 100% aluminium. The exposed bits had minor scratches on, its definitely aluminium.
-Behind the flash hider looks darkened black.
-There is a lip illusion, its a 45 degree slope preceding something like a 30 degree slope. I will draw a diagram later, got rough dimensions.

-The mgc barrel was cut approx 1cm shorter than the edge of the flash hider. Its plugged and the plug is black.
-Inside the hood of the flash hider is darkened with the same weathering as on the outside.
-It is a black rattle can overspray weathering job.
-The lines are not pencil, it's like a 2mm marker pen. A little translucent or perhaps ink fading has occured.

-The spacer is made from 2 things. An approx 8mm brass thing, straight edges. Ontop of this is some silvery metal thats about 2mm thick. They are identical diameters and are about 2.5mm wider in diameter than the thorens above.
-Actually, the thinner spacer component looked the same thickness as the thorens but was 2.5mm (ish) wider.

-Thorens staining is a grey gloopy looking filler or glue that is unknown to me. Its about 1cm in diameter but irregular as you'd expect. It's slightly glossy in an irregular way. The closest colour match I can think of is the old lego light grey colour.

-Thorens is screwed on with phillips screws. Maybe 3.5 or 4mm screw heads, domed head. Don't know the official engineer name - panhead?
-The screws don't overhang the thorens at all. Theyre flush with the edge completely.
 
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Well, crap. I was afraid this would happen!

Thanks so much for your effort, and what a bummer these folks were so on point and protective!

I appreciate all your notes. I figured there had to be more than one thing under the scope bracket!

Thanks again for trying, sir! Thanks so much!
 
The flash hider transition from cone to cylinder looked messily done. It was about a 2mm 45 degree slope before the visible slope, so from afar it looks like a 90 degree lip. It does form kind of a sloped lip though. It can roughly be discerned from one of my crappy previous pics but you won't know what you're looking for unless you already know what to see. I'll do an diagram overlay when I am at a computer. It looks concave in the pic but it isn't a curve.

Any replica would have to capture the amateur appearance of it though, pretty tough to do. If it were done by a proper machinist it would look a bit wrong.
 
I'm guessing it was done with a file on a lathe.

Not the whole hider, mind you, but that transition. That's how I did mine, but i took my time and made it look pretty.
 
Get some spy glasses with an HD camera and go back and take a bunch of video we can screen grab from. That'll show 'em.

But seriosly, thank you for doing this. This is great info even if you couldn't get pics.
 
Wow you are on point with the dimensions. The 3.5mm for the Thorens makes sense since the screws that came with it were 3.5mm

Just went to the exhibition again, cloakroom was enforced so had to leave bag and dslr with them. Pocket camera only but got caught between getting it out and taking the shot. Got out a notebook and started writing in it and another lady asked me to stop using my pencil, then handed me a bizarre disposable plastic pencil that is like an ice cream spoon at the cinema. Why? No answer!. Abeno Harukas Art Museum sucks.

Anyway I wrote with it.

-Flash hider is 100% aluminium. The exposed bits had minor scratches on, its definitely aluminium.
-Behind the flash hider looks darkened black.
-There is a lip illusion, its a 45 degree slope preceding something like a 30 degree slope. I will draw a diagram later, got rough dimensions.

-The mgc barrel was cut approx 1cm shorter than the edge of the flash hider. Its plugged and the plug is black.
-Inside the hood of the flash hider is darkened with the same weathering as on the outside.
-It is a black rattle can overspray weathering job.
-The lines are not pencil, it's like a 2mm marker pen. A little translucent or perhaps ink fading has occured.

-The spacer is made from 2 things. An approx 8mm brass thing, straight edges. Ontop of this is some silvery metal thats about 2mm thick. They are identical diameters and are about 2.5mm wider in diameter than the thorens above.
-Actually, the thinner spacer component looked the same thickness as the thorens but was 2.5mm (ish) wider.

-Thorens staining is a grey gloopy looking filler or glue that is unknown to me. Its about 1cm in diameter but irregular as you'd expect. It's slightly glossy in an irregular way. The closest colour match I can think of is the old lego light grey colour.

-Thorens is screwed on with phillips screws. Maybe 3.5 or 4mm screw heads, domed head. Don't know the official engineer name - panhead?
-The screws don't overhang the thorens at all. Theyre flush with the edge completely.
 

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