New BMF coming
- Thread starter Jimmer
- Start date
Timmythekid
Sr Member
With the grills, I'm probably missing something totally obvious here, but everyone engaged in upgrading the Hero Series seems to have a BMF as well, so why not just take a cast of one of the vents on that thing? The one that lives in our house is under the kid's bed right now, so can't go look, but I remember them as being textured. Presuming you can cast it without damaging the toy (and never having cast a thing, I have no clue how hard it would be...or not), I'd have thought that would have been preferable.
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Separate question, the paint experiments here have been massively informative, but, and apologies if I missed it, I'm wondering if has anyone here tried to putty this thing yet - can you just plug up the screw holes with squadron, or won't it adhere?
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Separate question, the paint experiments here have been massively informative, but, and apologies if I missed it, I'm wondering if has anyone here tried to putty this thing yet - can you just plug up the screw holes with squadron, or won't it adhere?
Archive&Future
Sr Member
Off-white usually is best, you want a colour which is slightly warm, so a warm light grey could be used. I mean very light....and not a cold light grey
PHArchivist
Master Member
Rock on, brother! Any JWA filghts soon?
- - - Updated - - -
It is documented in the RPF somewhere which Tamiya color (straight out of the bottle) is a dead match, and very possibly what was used on the MR master.
Good luck finding it...
Hunk a Junk
Sr Member
I think "acceptable" color is a relative term. Are you going for an on-screen look or studio miniature accuracy? On-screen, the color varies depending on lighting, environment, etc. Sometimes more white, sometimes more gray. Since the Falcon is such a hunk a junk (hey-oh!), I like to start with a whiter base and then dirty it up from there. You can always add washes and grime to darken it up. One thing I'd suggest, however, is to not overdo the preshading. The 5-footer especially doesn't have a lot.
PHArchivist
Master Member
I take that back. The color I believe I have in mind is a Model Master color - Camoflage Grey.
By preshading do you mean a black coat first or shading various area dark after the first light base coat???
Preshading is where you airbrush a base shade, then use a much darker, contrasting color to airbrush just the panel lines and seams, then airbrush the final color on top of that. that paint should have just enough translucency for the preshaded lines to be subtly visible. Though I've personally never tried it as I don't own an airbrush. I've always used washes and translucent paint layering techniques.
I've had a lot of luck on smaller scale Falcons to start with a straight up Flat White and then do several washes with assorted browns before tucking in with the streaks and weathering in earnest. I was really happy with the results. Here's a pic of the Pocket Model Falcon which I painted with this technique:
...but I'm not sure how well the effect will work in a scale as big as the new Hasbro BMF. I may just finally have to invest in an airbrush after all.
--Alex
I've had a lot of luck on smaller scale Falcons to start with a straight up Flat White and then do several washes with assorted browns before tucking in with the streaks and weathering in earnest. I was really happy with the results. Here's a pic of the Pocket Model Falcon which I painted with this technique:
...but I'm not sure how well the effect will work in a scale as big as the new Hasbro BMF. I may just finally have to invest in an airbrush after all.
--Alex
I just checked...There are 6 heavy panel lines on the sticker and 8 on the Legacy. With that said, the engine grill diameter is almost a perfect match. I also looked at the Hasbro TIE with the big wings (not a match). Ill probably take a mold off the Legacy because A) the diameter is really close, B) I dont know if the sticker is correct and C) Who is going to count lines at my house (it aint the 80's for petes sake).
Jaimeth, look at my earlier posts in this thread. I put down a coat of light grey primer (spray can), then preshaded all the panel lines / recessed areas and some engine port areas with black (airbrush). Then working one panel at a time, I used a custom mix of flat white/deck tan and a touch of flat black (airbrush). I worked my way out starting at the center of the panel feathering the paint to the edges. That way the preshadow of previous panel lines bled through the top coat.
Rob, I might buy a bottle of Camouflage Grey just to see what it looks like in various lighting situations. I wish I knew this before I painted mine hahaha
Alex, YES please invest in an airbrush. It is another tool that is invaluable in model painting. There are some effects that can only be done with an airbrush. Im not saying a person cannot achieve amazing results with dry brushing / traditional methods. But an airbrush adds a whole new depth of detail and effect. Testors makes a cheepo airbrush kit that works of a can of compressed air. Once you try it, you will be hooked.
Lastly, Screen correct VS. in person correct VS. actual paint used can be three different colors. I always go for the in person correct as the original color could have had its formula changed, faded over time OR just look plain wrong in person. The Brown Bess Pulse Rifle color is a perfect example. It looks perfect on screen but poopie brown in person.
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Junk Pilot
Sr Member
I sent him another message about the scale of his product (see below) just to let him know of the discrepancy between the various Falcons and the scale he states:
"Hi (name removed)
Thanks for that. The only reason I asked was because I believe there may be an issue with the scale you've quoted. Someone I know received your cockpit part and found it smaller when compared it to the cockpit from new Hasbro 28in Hero Series Millennium Falcon.
The original 32in MF filming ILM miniature is often quoted as being 1/48 (half the size of the often quoted 1/24 scale 5ft Falcon) while the new Hasbro Falcon is closer to 1/53 scale so if these scales are to be believed your cockpit should be larger than the new Hasbro Falcon, and not smaller, with a diameter closer to that of the 32in Falcon's cockpit of 3 inches.
I just thought I would bring this to your attention to prevent any confusion with buyers who are looking for a cockpit (even a 5ft version) for their own custom 32in Falcon.
Regards
Dean"
With the first PM I sent he replied within 24hrs. Three days later and still no reply to this one.
"Hi (name removed)
Thanks for that. The only reason I asked was because I believe there may be an issue with the scale you've quoted. Someone I know received your cockpit part and found it smaller when compared it to the cockpit from new Hasbro 28in Hero Series Millennium Falcon.
The original 32in MF filming ILM miniature is often quoted as being 1/48 (half the size of the often quoted 1/24 scale 5ft Falcon) while the new Hasbro Falcon is closer to 1/53 scale so if these scales are to be believed your cockpit should be larger than the new Hasbro Falcon, and not smaller, with a diameter closer to that of the 32in Falcon's cockpit of 3 inches.
I just thought I would bring this to your attention to prevent any confusion with buyers who are looking for a cockpit (even a 5ft version) for their own custom 32in Falcon.
Regards
Dean"
With the first PM I sent he replied within 24hrs. Three days later and still no reply to this one.
crackerjazz
Sr Member
For my 1/144 I used a 50-50 mix of Model Master Camouflage Gray and Light Gray, which I got from Jay Chladek's scheme.
But the exact ILM colors I gathered are 50-50 of Floquil Enamel Reefer White and Grime. Those paints are harder to come by nowadays, so I think Deck Tan and White that John mentioned are a good combo too, if not the Model Master Camouflage Gray. The weathering does make the ship darker than the original base shade especially when you overdo it - when you start the weathering there's a tendency to go crazy just because it's fun.
Phil's thread (http://www.therpf.com/f10/32-falcon-progress-more-new-piccys-page-23-a-48473/index15.html) mentions these exact Floquil enamel colors for the die-hards. I just wish there were a visual paint guide somewhere showing where they all go. I'm at a loss even for which color to use for the streaks. I just did it by eye.
Reefer White
Grime
Boxcar Red
Caboose Red
Reefer Gray
Engine Black
Grimy Black
Depot Buff
Southern Pacific Armour Yellow
Reefer Yellow
Dark Blue
Pullman Green
Tuscan
Oh, Astroboy, did you just order online from Walmart?
But the exact ILM colors I gathered are 50-50 of Floquil Enamel Reefer White and Grime. Those paints are harder to come by nowadays, so I think Deck Tan and White that John mentioned are a good combo too, if not the Model Master Camouflage Gray. The weathering does make the ship darker than the original base shade especially when you overdo it - when you start the weathering there's a tendency to go crazy just because it's fun.
Phil's thread (http://www.therpf.com/f10/32-falcon-progress-more-new-piccys-page-23-a-48473/index15.html) mentions these exact Floquil enamel colors for the die-hards. I just wish there were a visual paint guide somewhere showing where they all go. I'm at a loss even for which color to use for the streaks. I just did it by eye.
Reefer White
Grime
Boxcar Red
Caboose Red
Reefer Gray
Engine Black
Grimy Black
Depot Buff
Southern Pacific Armour Yellow
Reefer Yellow
Dark Blue
Pullman Green
Tuscan
Oh, Astroboy, did you just order online from Walmart?
Jaitea
Master Member
No-one in my house is gonna be counting the lines either
.......but just for the record....The 32" vents:
....and the 5 foot Falcon:
The cast I made of the Revell TIE wing works out that I've got 6 on my vents (= 5 Foot version)
J
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spacebob
Sr Member
Did a little more work to the frame,
I added two spacer pieces to keep it correctly lined up
Its working fine and makes it a lot sturdier.
It doesn't touch absolutely everywhere but when I finally put it all together a small bead of silicone will get it perfect.
You can see in this photo that I got the mandible angle a couple of mm out.
When I'm back in a few days I'll fix that and then post the shape section with dimensions for anyone that wants to use it
I added two spacer pieces to keep it correctly lined up
Its working fine and makes it a lot sturdier.
It doesn't touch absolutely everywhere but when I finally put it all together a small bead of silicone will get it perfect.
You can see in this photo that I got the mandible angle a couple of mm out.
When I'm back in a few days I'll fix that and then post the shape section with dimensions for anyone that wants to use it
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