3D Printed Samus Varia Suit - FINISHED! (Pics on pg.14)

Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Well I guess I'm probably not using fiberglass...

I did some more research and I didn't realize that both epoxy and polyester resins get hot when curing. I can't have it warping my very heat-sensitive worbla. Gah!

Now I don't know what to do. Does anyone have ideas on how to reinforce the inside of the shoulder without making it heavy and without introducing heat? Are there other kinds of resins or something else that can be used to solidify fiberglass cloth?

Maybe if I do it in just the right way I can get it to work. Hmm...


Edit: After more research I came across this stuff called Aqua Resin. It's water based, intended to be used for fiberglassing, and since (I think) it's curing by evaporation of water instead of a solvent coming in contact with oxygen, I assume it doesn't get hot. Bonus: it cures in 10-15 minutes instead of hours, and no fumes!
 
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Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

The first bicep now has its final copper paint! It hasn't been wet sanded and polished yet.

img_3188.jpg

Also the finger armor got a coat of test primer since it was hard to see what the clear glue had done to the worbla. They're a little lumpy. Time to sand them smooth!
img_3193.jpgimg_3194.jpg
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

RetiredClone said:
Looking good! How do you plan to polish the bicep, with some sort of oil or a clear gloss spray?
Click to expand...

First I wet sand it to make sure it's super smooth; this actually dulls it a bit. Then I use a 3 part (the last part is optional and I haven't used it yet, so really a 2 part) polishing kit which is meant for plastic but works very well for auto paint too. I learned from this video:

 
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Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Great video, thanks for sharing! I haven't tried the polishing method before... I wonder if a clear gloss spray would produce the same reflective-shiny finish?
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Have you looked into just adding some smoothcast to the inside? It would give it some strength without really heating up the worbla. Also, poly resin won't get extremely hot if you just apply it in thin coats. The problem with high heat becomes a factor when you start using large amounts of it- the thicker the layer the more work it has to do to dissipate heat.

Just some thoughts.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

The issue with smooth cast in thin layers is that it isn't very strong. Multiple stacked thin layers are actually somewhat brittle, and casting thicker layers would more then likely produce enough heat to work the worbla. The only thing I can think of is an epoxy putty like Miliput spread around the inside, but if it where me, I would honestly just mold the 3D printed one and cast it out of smooth ons 65D. It'll take a bit longer and another ~$150 or so, but the finished product will be very durable, both scratch and impact resistant, and relatively lightweight, totally worth it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Yeah I'm starting to think casting it would just be easier and take less time. I had been avoiding it thus far since I've never casted anything like this before (just a simple one part plaster mold before) and it requires me to find another place to work since I can't do it in my apartment. This basically restricts me to working only on weekends (if the person is even available that weekend) which is not good. I'm not so much worried about the cost as I am the effort, but it's looking like the worbla way will take longer.

As far as shapes go, the shoulder is relatively simple (unlike the helmet - yuck). I would be able to just quickly create the second one vs having to do all the work over again for the worbla versions, plus I can be confident about their strength. It'll be a learning process for me which will take more time than normal but I think it'll be worth it. The worbla experiment was still worth it though. Maybe I can use the technique for something else in the future.

The one thing I am worried about how to do is the rectangular holes lining the grooves of the shoulder. How the heck do I do those? Should I be cutting those in afterward?
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Talaaya said:
Well I guess I'm probably not using fiberglass...

I did some more research and I didn't realize that both epoxy and polyester resins get hot when curing. I can't have it warping my very heat-sensitive worbla. Gah!

Now I don't know what to do. Does anyone have ideas on how to reinforce the inside of the shoulder without making it heavy and without introducing heat? Are there other kinds of resins or something else that can be used to solidify fiberglass cloth?

Maybe if I do it in just the right way I can get it to work. Hmm...


Edit: After more research I came across this stuff called Aqua Resin. It's water based, intended to be used for fiberglassing, and since (I think) it's curing by evaporation of water instead of a solvent coming in contact with oxygen, I assume it doesn't get hot. Bonus: it cures in 10-15 minutes instead of hours, and no fumes!
Click to expand...

Avoid aqua resin! It just doesn't work for costume pieces and I have experience in using it. It also get VERY HOT so you would have the same issues. You could just glue strips of 1mm styrene on the inside of the shoulder, it won't require much glue and it will reinforce your glue lines.
 
3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Talaaya said:
The one thing I am worried about how to do is the rectangular holes lining the grooves of the shoulder. How the heck do I do those? Should I be cutting those in afterward?
Click to expand...

Just like molding a cowl or helmet, if there are vents or something of the like that includes having a hole in the finished piece, then sculpt in the hole or cut out on the master, and then glue a plate behind it before molding the piece, so you have the exact space and dimensions for the cut out, and you'll simply have to drill out the slots on your castings. Dremels are really great for this.

Also, I would recommend a pouring epoxy rather then brush on, since the shape would lend itself well to a box mold, and then you wouldn't need to construct a mother mold over the silicone mold for casting, as what ever box you initially use to make the mold would serve that purpose.


Also, why wouldn't you be able to make a mold in your apartment? Mess or toxicity? If it's the latter, they're are a few non-toxic and odorless silicones made by smooth on that you could use. I've molded a few things in my kitchen before, all you need is a normal temperate environment and a place for the mold to rest while curing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

IceTyrant said:
Just like molding a cowl or helmet, if there are vents or something of the like that includes having a hole in the finished piece, then sculpt in the hole or cut out on the master, and then glue a plate behind it before molding the piece, so you have the exact space and dimensions for the cut out, and you'll simply have to drill out the slots on your castings. Dremels are really great for this.

Also, I would recommend a pouring epoxy rather then brush on, since the shape would lend itself well to a box mold, and then you wouldn't need to construct a mother mold over the silicone mold for casting, as what ever box you initially use to make the mold would serve that purpose.
Click to expand...

Ah thanks! I'll be sure to keep all this in mind when I'm looking up tutorials. The box mold sounds like a great idea. I would have thought the empty corners would make it too expensive to fill since it'd be such a big box. I guess I could fill them with something else.


IceTyrant said:
Also, why wouldn't you be able to make a mold in your apartment? Mess or toxicity? If it's the latter, they're are a few non-toxic and odorless silicones made by smooth on that you could use. I've molded a few things in my kitchen before, all you need is a normal temperate environment and a place for the mold to rest while curing.
Click to expand...

I can't have any fumes in my apartment because I have a bunny. As adorable as it would be, they don't make respirators for bunnies. :3

Also yeah I'm concerned about using very permanent, spill-able stuff inside. I don't need to lose my deposit and possibly more money. I do have a balcony, but the floor is metal with holes in it. I fear spilling anything onto the balcony below. Either option is just not worth the risk to me. I have a couple friends with garages I can use, it's just a bit more effort.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

If you're still planning on gluing the hand pieces to the gloves, you need to use Barge cement.

It's a contact cement used for gluing on shoe soles, so it always stays flexible like rubber, and once it cures, the pieces will NOT come apart, ever. Just apply to both sides, let it get tacky, then stick them together, and ne'er the twain shall part. Plus, it doesn't get hot at all.

I seriously don't know of anything that's stronger or better suited for exactly this kind of project.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

MrGreene said:
If you're still planning on gluing the hand pieces to the gloves, you need to use Barge cement.

It's a contact cement used for gluing on shoe soles, so it always stays flexible like rubber, and once it cures, the pieces will NOT come apart, ever. Just apply to both sides, let it get tacky, then stick them together, and ne'er the twain shall part. Plus, it doesn't get hot at all.

I seriously don't know of anything that's stronger or better suited for exactly this kind of project.
Click to expand...

Oooh! Thank you!! That was one of the glues that came up during my brief search so far. That and e6000, which I already have a tube of. If you hadn't said that I'd have just gone with e6000 and I didn't have high hopes for it.

Does Barge seep through the cloth? Trying to figure out a safe way to do it while they're on my hands, but I may just have to cast my hand.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Talaaya said:
Oooh! Thank you!! That was one of the glues that came up during my brief search so far. That and e6000, which I already have a tube of. If you hadn't said that I'd have just gone with e6000 and I didn't have high hopes for it.

Does Barge seep through the cloth? Trying to figure out a safe way to do it while they're on my hands, but I may just have to cast my hand.
Click to expand...


It's pretty thick, but it might still seep into the cloth a little. Plus, it'll be really messy if your hands are in the gloves. I'd suggest just wearing disposable latex gloves inside the cloth ones for gluing if you can fit them on. Just make sure to pull the latex gloves out before the glue sets.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Ah okay. I figured if the glue was going to seep through it'd get the latex gloves like it'd get my hands, but I didn't think about pulling them out before it sets. Thanks!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

MrGreene said:
It's pretty thick, but it might still seep into the cloth a little. Plus, it'll be really messy if your hands are in the gloves. I'd suggest just wearing disposable latex gloves inside the cloth ones for gluing if you can fit them on. Just make sure to pull the latex gloves out before the glue sets.
Click to expand...

Barge wont work very well it will bond so quick you won't be able to get your finger through the part. I would use Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive it is flexible and holds amazing. With Barge both pieces should be dry when you bond them. This wont give you the ability to adjust placement. Fabric glue you do wet and would allow you some movement to set the piece how you like. It remains very flexible still when dry. It is stinky but not worse than contact cement.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Talaaya said:
Ah thanks! I'll be sure to keep all this in mind when I'm looking up tutorials. The box mold sounds like a great idea. I would have thought the empty corners would make it too expensive to fill since it'd be such a big box. I guess I could fill them with something else....
Click to expand...

Mold Max® Series RTV Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On Mold Max 30 or 40 is what you want. It sells by the gallon, so you don't need to worry about the corner space. You will want to make a box that fits close to your actual shoulder piece though, with at least a 1/2" gap to each side.

I'm not super good with photo editing, so I did a few quick drawings to show what I think is the easiest way to make this mold (although I'm not super good at that either lol).



Basically, fill the gaps in the 3D printed piece, then glue it to a piece of cardboard big enough to serve as a lid for your box, while keeping the shoulder suspended from the sides and bottom. Make a hole in the cardboard lid, then put it on the box, and pour in your silicone and let it cure. Then, pull out the 3D printed shoulder master, and make another cardboard lid with a hole in the center. Tape this lid down so all the edges are sealed with the box, then pour in your casting plastic (Which should be 65D: Smooth-Cast® 45D & 60D/61D/65D Product Information | Smooth-On ) and continuously rotate the box on all sides to create an even coating of the plastic in the silicone mold (which is called roto-casting). You can do this in a few consecutive pours instead of just one, as long as they follow a few minutes after each other so they will all bond into a single layer instead of multiple layers. Then, remove the tape from the lid, pop your casting out, cut it away from the cardboard lid and carve out the detail pieces that you sealed up when making the master, and Ta-Da!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

IceTyrant said:
Mold Max® Series RTV Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On Mold Max 30 or 40 is what you want. It sells by the gallon, so you don't need to worry about the corner space. You will want to make a box that fits close to your actual shoulder piece though, with at least a 1/2" gap to each side.

I'm not super good with photo editing, so I did a few quick drawings to show what I think is the easiest way to make this mold (although I'm not super good at that either lol).

Basically, fill the gaps in the 3D printed piece, then glue it to a piece of cardboard big enough to serve as a lid for your box, while keeping the shoulder suspended from the sides and bottom. Make a hole in the cardboard lid, then put it on the box, and pour in your silicone and let it cure. Then, pull out the 3D printed shoulder master, and make another cardboard lid with a hole in the center. Tape this lid down so all the edges are sealed with the box, then pour in your casting plastic (Which should be 65D: Smooth-Cast® 45D & 60D/61D/65D Product Information | Smooth-On ) and continuously rotate the box on all sides to create an even coating of the plastic in the silicone mold (which is called roto-casting). You can do this in a few consecutive pours instead of just one, as long as they follow a few minutes after each other so they will all bond into a single layer instead of multiple layers. Then, remove the tape from the lid, pop your casting out, cut it away from the cardboard lid and carve out the detail pieces that you sealed up when making the master, and Ta-Da!
Click to expand...

Oh, thank you so much for taking the time to write that up! I really appreciate it! That sounds perfect.

zookone said:
Barge wont work very well it will bond so quick you won't be able to get your finger through the part. I would use Beacon Fabri-Tac Permanent Adhesive it is flexible and holds amazing. With Barge both pieces should be dry when you bond them. This wont give you the ability to adjust placement. Fabric glue you do wet and would allow you some movement to set the piece how you like. It remains very flexible still when dry. It is stinky but not worse than contact cement.
Click to expand...

Oooh interesting. Thanks!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

After a ton of sanding, test priming, and re-sanding, I finally painted the finger armor today!

rHwTmYb.jpgmxK3hwe.jpg19hWKrS.jpg

Also wet sanded and polished the bicep. Haven't done this to the fingers yet.

QBp4rur.jpg

Likewise, I wet sanded and polished the other half of the helmet. I think I'm going to do another pass at it though because it's still a bit bumpier than the first side.
 
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