3D Printed Samus Varia Suit - FINISHED! (Pics on pg.14)

Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Alright, alright. Here's what I have of the shoulder stuff:

I decided to go with a single part silicone mold with a slit cut partially down one side. You can see the lump here where I built up the area where I would later cut it:
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After covering the shoulder with silicone I used a clay shim and foil to ensure the Plastipaste mother mold would stay separate. I also applied Sonite Wax to everything just in case. I inserted marbles in the shim to make registration keys for the mother mold.

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Here I'm applying a batch of Plastipaste. The sheets layered over the top are single layers of tissue (not a whole tissue, they're double ply by default so I tore the tissue apart). I saw this technique used in a video and it's so great! It allows you to pat down the paste, making a nice smooth surface. That way you don't rip apart your hands later when you're trying to rotate it around and cast while holding a super rough surface.

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The mold came out great! There are a few air gaps that got stuck in the rectangular "holes" along the ridges, but it's fine - I have to cut them out anyway.

The mother mold is in 3 parts: 2 fronts and a back:
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I took a dremel to the edges to make sure everything was nice and smooth.

Here's the first pull of the shoulder fin:
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I didn't quite get the resin in the tips so some air got trapped, and there's another bubble on the side at the top of the pic. I just did the second pull and it's much better:
aec2k79.jpg
It's a single part mold. It's a little hard to get it out of there but it sure does make things easier otherwise. The second one is darker because I was experimenting with the black dye.

It's dark outside now so no more casting tonight. I'm so excited to cast the shoulder tomorrow!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Thank you for the mother mold tip. I have thought about using the paste instead of the plaster I usually use. This give me a lot more confidence in giving it a shot.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

I just pulled the first shoulder cast! Overall it looks great, and is way more lightweight than the 3d print. I probably won't use this one though. There are a few problem areas which I now know to fix for next time. I didn't quite get enough resin on the bottom edge so it's not a clean edge, I didn't get enough on the edges of the large grooves (although I could fix that even after it's out of the mold), and the bottom left edge (in the first pic) is a bit too flexible. I'll be doing at least one more cast today. Probably just one because man is it exhausting to rotate that big heavy mother mold!

aFIQBk1.jpgLoGweb7.jpg

In the right picture you can see the tiny amount of flashing from where the silicone mold is slit.

Also, this black dye I used to color it gray is very weird - under fluorescent lighting it's gray, but in sunlight it's purple!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

I did the second pull and I fixed the warped area from the first one but this one is warped in a different place. Both are just indents so I'll just call it good and fix it up with a little bondo. The bottom edge can't get any better than it is so I'll just grind it down until it looks good. I'm also fine with the flexibility I think. It's not so much that the paint will crack...I think.

So for now, I'm done casting the shoulders! I still have to cast a few more fins but not today. I'm pooped.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

I'm also fine with the flexibility I think. It's not so much that the paint will crack...I think.
I'll say I probably have no idea if this is actually a good idea, but maying some simple bracing on the inside might help with that? It depend on exactly how it's flexing thought.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Ah, good thinking, thanks. Maybe I can just run a loop of thick copper wire around the edge on the inside. I can't think of something that would be as strong and lightweight as that.

Also, I just spent about 2 hours sanding the second thigh. It's now ready for spot putty - another job for my sister when she gets back. I am so exhausted and sore after today. :/
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Ah, good thinking, thanks. Maybe I can just run a loop of thick copper wire around the edge on the inside. I can't think of something that would be as strong and lightweight as that.

Also, I just spent about 2 hours sanding the second thigh. It's now ready for spot putty - another job for my sister when she gets back. I am so exhausted and sore after today. :/
You could also maybe do some cross members, depends on how it'll sit on the shoulder thought.

Do you knwo the process your sister uses for the spot putty? I'm about to do the same thing myself and I've never done it before! xD If you've already talked about it I can trawl the thread for it later, I'm sure it'll be worth the read regardless!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Yeah I taught her how. I like to sand the Bondo down fairly smooth, until there are just a few tiny indents and the overall curvature is uniform. I knock down the higher areas with 80 or 100 grit, then do the majority with 150 grit and sometimes 220 (but 220 is often unnecessary since the spot putty will fill in the scratches from the heavier grit, and the final sanding pass does the rest). Then I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, applied with a small trimmed off piece of Bondo spreader (occasionally also my gloved finger) over any areas which need it, but sometimes I'll just cover the entire thing. The important thing to know about spot putty is you can't apply it too thick or it will crack. It's also very fragile so you can't really build up areas - use regular Bondo for that. It's meant for filling in holes and scratches. Finally I'll do one last sanding pass with a little bit of 220 grit to knock down any high areas of spot putty, but mostly with 400 grit. Again, the spot putty is very fragile so you only need to use a very fine grit. 400 takes it down very fast. Then I'll hit it with a coat of primer to make the color uniform so I can check for anything I missed. If I did, I'll apply spot putty again to problem areas, sand those, and do the final coat of primer before paint.

Oh, also, lately I've been using my Dremel MM40 Multi-Max sander which is really nice because it's much faster (and less physically exhausting!) and the hard surface of the sanding head helps keep things smoother than doing it by hand. When doing it by hand your fingers conform to the shape of the curves which means it's much more difficult to level things out. Wrapping sandpaper around a block would work just as well, but requires the same exertion as doing it with your fingers.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

I feel like 3D printing will replace a lot of stuff when it is more affordable... NO MORE FOLDING PAPER!!!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

I feel like 3D printing will replace a lot of stuff when it is more affordable... NO MORE FOLDING PAPER!!!

There's still a butt-load of prep and finish work to be done. 3D printing isn't some magic fix all, and won't be for a while still.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Fresh 3D print from overnight in the Z18 Makerbot. Took 14 hours and its not full scale and printed in a low resolution. Also hollow inside.
IMG_0416.JPGIMG_0418.JPGIMG_0419.JPGIMG_0421.JPG

The printer is expensive itself and this smaller scale print used about .5 lbs(10$) of material. The full scale version is still computing but my guess it will be about 1 lb (20$) of material.
I'm lucky enough where we have one here at work haha
Go 3D printing!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

3D printing cheaters! just kidding. =)

I LOVE the tissue paper on plasti-paste idea! Thanks! Now I won't have to wear gloves when casting. yay!
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Well, PAX is here and after many, MANY long nights I finished Samus! However, I ran into a few snags, one of which unfortunately made wearing the costume to the con this weekend impossible. At some point I'll take the time to fix the problem, but for now I need to just drop it and enjoy the con instead. I have a backlog of build pics to write up a post about but I'll get to that later. Also even though I can't use it right now, I'll take some pics of me at least wearing it and get those posted soon.

So if any of you are looking for me since I said I would be at PAX, sorry! I'm so devastated that I couldn't wear it.
 
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Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Have you attempted to use acetone to smooth your 3d prints at all? I've had good results on the pieces I've done and I'm working on a building an enclosure to make an acetone vapor chamber to smooth my 3d prints. Could save you alot of time and money with the work you're doing with bondo.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

Have you attempted to use acetone to smooth your 3d prints at all? I've had good results on the pieces I've done and I'm working on a building an enclosure to make an acetone vapor chamber to smooth my 3d prints. Could save you alot of time and money with the work you're doing with bondo.

Do you lose edge definition with acetone vapor? I'd be worried about losing the sharp edges of the suit with that method.
 
Re: 3D Printed Samus Varia Suit

You do lose definition since it's melting the plastic surface. Sanding up the edges is probably less work though
 
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