Blade Runner Blaster news: model kit version of the Tomenosuke Blaster is coming

Hi, Thank you,

Regarding the method I used, I basically looked up various methods on cold bluing on the net and ended up giving this one a go :-

http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1202

All parts were de-seamed of any mould lines etc, then step sanded using 3M sanding sponges, medium, fine, superfine, ultrafine and microfine, in warm soapy water, dried then knocked back with 0000 steel wool.

The piece to be blued was then thoroughly wiped over with pure acetone (not the stuff from chemists for removing nail polish as this has additives). Then using kitchen roll folded into a smallish square the neat blue was applied (Birchwood Casey Perma Blue) rubbing it in until the surface began to darken. It will look patchy but don't worry you're just staining/darkening the metal for now.

Do this a couple of times, turning the cloth to a clean piece when it starts to look dirty, until the piece is pretty much covered/darkened, then put the piece into a container of boiling water for about 20-30 seconds, remove and dry thoroughly (I used a plastic tub with boiling water from a kettle)

Now you need to start blending out removing the patches/streaks using 0000 steel wool, very gently sweeping it along the piece until it begins to look more even and uniform, you will remove quite a lot of the bluing to begin with, especially along sharp edges etc don't worry as you need to repeat the above process.

Whenever you use the steel wool you will need to wipe over the piece with acetone as steel wool normally contains oils (to help prevent it rusting)

Do the above as many times as it takes to get the desired look/effect your after.

You will find that after three or four applications in the steps above you wont need the steel wool so much and any slight patches can be blended away just using the cloth with bluing solution, wiping it on then quickly and briskly rubbing with some clean/dry kitchen towel.

The parts were then saturated with gun oil (I used Birchwood Casey Barricade spray) and left in a plastic tub while moving on to the next part.

Small parts like triggers, screws, cylinder levers etc can be blued as above but using cotton buds as opposed to the kitchen roll.

When your happy with the finish, wipe off all oil and apply Renaissance wax.

For my first (few) attempts I was using Aluminium black, which just didn't work for me as it was too black and came out with a very matt finish which was almost impossible to polish up without removing all of it.

Hope it helps :thumbsup

John.
 
stonedog7563 said:
Hi, Thank you,

Regarding the method I used, I basically looked up various methods on cold bluing on the net and ended up giving this one a go :-

http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=1202

All parts were de-seamed of any mould lines etc, then step sanded using 3M sanding sponges, medium, fine, superfine, ultrafine and microfine, in warm soapy water, dried then knocked back with 0000 steel wool.

The piece to be blued was then thoroughly wiped over with pure acetone (not the stuff from chemists for removing nail polish as this has additives). Then using kitchen roll folded into a smallish square the neat blue was applied (Birchwood Casey Perma Blue) rubbing it in until the surface began to darken. It will look patchy but don't worry you're just staining/darkening the metal for now.

Do this a couple of times, turning the cloth to a clean piece when it starts to look dirty, until the piece is pretty much covered/darkened, then put the piece into a container of boiling water for about 20-30 seconds, remove and dry thoroughly (I used a plastic tub with boiling water from a kettle)

Now you need to start blending out removing the patches/streaks using 0000 steel wool, very gently sweeping it along the piece until it begins to look more even and uniform, you will remove quite a lot of the bluing to begin with, especially along sharp edges etc don't worry as you need to repeat the above process.

Whenever you use the steel wool you will need to wipe over the piece with acetone as steel wool normally contains oils (to help prevent it rusting)

Do the above as many times as it takes to get the desired look/effect your after.

You will find that after three or four applications in the steps above you wont need the steel wool so much and any slight patches can be blended away just using the cloth with bluing solution, wiping it on then quickly and briskly rubbing with some clean/dry kitchen towel.

The parts were then saturated with gun oil (I used Birchwood Casey Barricade spray) and left in a plastic tub while moving on to the next part.

Small parts like triggers, screws, cylinder levers etc can be blued as above but using cotton buds as opposed to the kitchen roll.

When your happy with the finish, wipe off all oil and apply Renaissance wax.

For my first (few) attempts I was using Aluminium black, which just didn't work for me as it was too black and came out with a very matt finish which was almost impossible to polish up without removing all of it.

Hope it helps :thumbsup

John.
Click to expand...


Thank you so much for posting all of this. It will be really helpful.
 
Anyone got any suggestions on the trigger assembly? ! The directions are fairly bad...other than the triggers I've done sample build and got everything together...I haven't painted or blued it yet...I wanted to build it first, then do the finish work and rebuild it for the final...any help would be great, especially pictures. ..cheers!
 
Darthwolf7 said:
Anyone got any suggestions on the trigger assembly? ! The directions are fairly bad...other than the triggers I've done sample build and got everything together...I haven't painted or blued it yet...I wanted to build it first, then do the finish work and rebuild it for the final...any help would be great, especially pictures. ..cheers!
Click to expand...

http://www.therpf.com/f9/blade-runn...tomenosuke-blaster-coming-174014/index28.html

Extremely helpful pics on the trigger.
 
Hi Marv,
I have just finished reading the thread, on your trial and tribulations on purchasing a Tomenosuke blaster.
Like you I live in the UK and find the current law on RIF frustrating.
Did you ever manage to resolve the situation with UK customs?
I would also love to own a “Tomenosuke” but I don’t want to fall foul of the authorities. .
Just wondered if you know of anyone who could import it through their business?
Regards
 
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